TOPIC:

At this point, I have no idea what's going on.

I just put a new [Yuasa] battery earlier on today. The bike would not idle. I start it on full choke. If you let down the choke, it dies. If you rev the throttle past 4000 rpm, it dies. maybe 5 times out of 35 that i started it it went as far as redline, and even then, it would die (if i let slowly decreased it or let the choke down).

I had a new dyna-s ignition installed, carbs cleaned, and i even rejetted the bike--still the same result: would not idle.

Is it electrical? why doesn't it go past 4K. Why after 2 mins of riding, when i put it in gear and slowly let go of the clutch it dies?

Please help if you have any idea what it could be. Wiring? Reg./Rect? anything else?

Thanks in advance, guys!

I'm not familiar with your bike but I know on mine the choke does not close off butterfly valves like you think of on a conventional carb. It somehow richens the fuel mixture and the air flow remains the same. At least that's my understanding. I know you said you cleaned the carbs, but how certain are you that the floats are operating properly? It sounds like a fuel delivery problem, but it could also be a vacuum leak I think. First thing I'd check are the rubber intake boots that the carbs go into. Make sure they are all seated properly, clamps tightened etc. You can spray some carb cleaner or anything similar around potential propblem areas to try and find a leak, just don't catch yourself on fire Before I went taking anything apart I'd also check the plugs and make sure you have good spark on all cylanders. It usually comes down to something simple. If the bike was running fine before you should not need to do any re-jetting. What has changed since it was last running?

ZeeEuro wrote:

At this point, I have no idea what's going on.

I just put a new [Yuasa] battery earlier on today. The bike would not idle. I start it on full choke. If you let down the choke, it dies. If you rev the throttle past 4000 rpm, it dies. maybe 5 times out of 35 that i started it it went as far as redline, and even then, it would die (if i let slowly decreased it or let the choke down).

I had a new dyna-s ignition installed, carbs cleaned, and i even rejetted the bike--still the same result: would not idle.

Is it electrical? why doesn't it go past 4K. Why after 2 mins of riding, when i put it in gear and slowly let go of the clutch it dies?

Please help if you have any idea what it could be. Wiring? Reg./Rect? anything else?

Thanks in advance, guys!

Ignition timing should have been checked when Dyna-S was installed. If uncertain, would check the timing and assure advancer unit isn't stuck (all with engine off).

Would remove plugs and check the spark. While plugs are out, check compression which might indicate need for valve adjustment. Adjust valves if necessary.

Above items should be within specs before moving to the carbs. What kind of rejetting was done?

AR15Ron,

The floats should be fine, i had that checked a couple of months ago.

The tubes are good, no leaks or anything.

How do i test the fuel delivery? I see that the fuel filter is full of rust (but that cant be the main cause).

How do i check for a vacuum leak? are there diagrams of the proper hoses hookup.

The sparkplugs are brand new, so are the coils. But, sometimes when i start it, i hear a metallic breaking noise, as if one metal part slams on smth metal also. is that ignition/starter, i don't know.

Patton,

Im sure the ignition timing was done when it was being installed at my shop last week.

Sorry, i'm just starting to learn about bikes. How do you adjust the valves and check the compression?

Thank you, i'll try to attach some pictures in case if it helps

Post edited by: ZeeEuro, at: 2007/03/24 22:42

sorry for spamming this. my image uploads failed and i dont know how to delete these posts!


PICTURES can be seen here: www.flickr.com/photos/7465092@N07/

Thanks

Post edited by: ZeeEuro, at: 2007/03/24 22:55

ZeeEuro wrote:

How do i test the fuel delivery? I see that the fuel filter is full of rust (but that cant be the main cause).

If fuel is flowing past that rust intermittently, that could be the entire problem.

Even if replacing it doesn't fix the problem, a new fuel filter is only about $1.99, right?
Which is probably about the cheapest thing you've ever bought, or ever will buy for your KZ.

Post edited by: RetroRiceRocketRider, at: 2007/03/24 23:39

I think you have several problems

1 the fuel filter, if it has rust in it then the tank has rust in it, I am almost positive that if you pull the bowls you will find rust in them and will need to be cleaned.

the next one is the rubber carb manifolds, sounds like you are having a vacum leak someplace around them, check them close for cracks

I agree, that filter is dismal! Order a new one before trying anything else. Z-1 will have it at your door in like 3 days USPS priority mail, they're awesome. Once you have that installed you can start it back up and check for a vacuum leak by spraying carb cleaner around the rubber boots. If the idle speed changes it is sucking in carb cleaner. Before you put the filter on, drain the tank. Also you say the floats were checked a few months ago, if fuel was left in the carbs during that time they will probably need to be cleaned again. Fuel turns into glue when it sits. I always turn off the fuel petcock and drain the float bowls of the carbs when I won't be using the bike for more than a week. There are screws on the bottom of each carb, big flat head screws that let the fuel out. You might try each of those and see if fuel comes out of all 4 carbs. Also see what that fuel looks like. Also if your fuel is old you should drain it all out anyway and get fresh fuel. I think the filter is the biggest problem, followed by possibly gummed up carbs or even dirt/rust clogging. If your tank is that rusty inside you will probably need to order a kit to fix it, also found at Z-1 one but let's take it one step at a time.
Here's a link to some filters:
I'm guessing you need 1/4 inch fittings.
www.z1enterprises.com/detail.aspx?ID=293
and
www.z1enterprises.com/detail.aspx?ID=295

Z-1 is one of the few places that lets you choose from a lot of shipping options. I always use USPS priority mail if I can because it's way faster than UPS almost always. Cheaper too usually.
Not sure about the metallic sound, if it is only during cranking it's probably starter related, unless you just can't hear it while its running. Hard to say from here If you need to adjust the valves see this thread , but try all the above before getting that involved.


Try the filter first, drain all the gas out and get new gas, check and see that all 4 carbs are getting fuel after that and let us know!

Ron

Post edited by: steell, at: 2007/03/25 10:24

You should probably have your gas tank cleaned out as it will keep clogging your NEW fuel filters and poluting your carbs. Even the best filters will let microscopic particles through, and enough of that eventually will make a sludge that clogs carbs and affects performance. You may need to clean your carbs out again.