TOPIC:

The 77 650 headlamp seems really weak, it uses what looks like a larger version of a tail-light.

Does anyone have any suggestions for improving the strength of the component?

Though I would hate to lose the look of the original set-up, I would be willing to switch to a more modern lamp for safety reasons.

Just use a motorcycle Halogen bulb, fits perfect and is alot brighter, keep your old one as a spare.

If it's an H4 type bulb (3 prong connector at back), you could also pop in one of the new ultra-powered bulbs from an auto store. They usually run about $20 or so, but are at least 30% brighter than standard halogen bulbs, which are pretty bright to start with.

My 550's headlight is still hella bright (or so my wife says, after riding behind her driving the car), so I haven't upgraded - but it's the thing I'm going to do once my HL starts to go.

You may want to make sure your bike can handle the heat from the lamp too - they get mighty warm. Oh - and don't touch the bulb itself!

Post edited by: pyxen, at: 2007/02/13 09:54

You can buy an upgrade at JC Whitney, at this link. Don't forget to buy the bulb too, it's an H4.

tinyurl.com/o6rqc

The 55/60 watt bulb is great, the 80w bulb may be too much for your electrical system, some guys have used them and are ok. But the 55w bulb will blow your socks off compared to the stock 35w.

Post edited by: OKC_Kent, at: 2007/02/07 09:54

My factory light was 35/50 and the one I got from Z1 is 50/60. Fits perfect and looks great!!

Is it possible to switch a KZ over to using a newer tech. like HID? I've seen some of the Ducati front end buckets (over-under config. like the 999) on fleabay pretty cheap...

shaftie1100 wrote:

Is it possible to switch a KZ over to using a newer tech. like HID? I've seen some of the Ducati front end buckets (over-under config. like the 999) on fleabay pretty cheap...

HID is most likely cost prohibitive. A good substitute is like the Sylvania SilverStar which is around 4000°K to 4500°K. That is nice, white and bright. I bought them for my wife's car and she could really tell the difference.
Don't know how important the reflector on your bike is, but if it does not "throw" the light out, then it still won't be much brighter than conventional halogens.

Hi, At the beginning of January I bought a 1980 KZ750H that had a fairing on it. Since then I've been doing work on it (brakes, oil change etc) that includes removing the fairing and going back to the stock configuration (or at least normal stock, this one may have come from the factory with the fairing?).

In any case I bought the headlight bucket and ring on e-bay and they are not great quality but will work till I find better. I also bought the H4 Headlight conversion at JC Whitney and I'm not sure how this is supposed to work. The headlight (glass and reflector part) does not have the same brackets on the back of it as the old bulb would (from looking at pictures in my factory service manual) What did you all do to get around this?

I will try and get some pictures up tonight, though I do not have an old sealed beam to go off of.

Qdude wrote:

The 77 650 headlamp seems really weak, it uses what looks like a larger version of a tail-light.

Does anyone have any suggestions for improving the strength of the component?

Though I would hate to lose the look of the original set-up, I would be willing to switch to a more modern lamp for safety reasons.

Qdude and everyone else who stumbles across this, I found a problem with my headlight, two weeks ago when I went into mine to redo the coil supply. When I checked the coil voltage, it was about 8.6V!!! No wonder it wouldn't run.
Wellll, that got me thinking about my halogen headlight which is not as bright as it should be. I checked the voltage at the headlight __with it turned on__! (see note at bottom), guess what; 9.48VDC to battery ground. Have not tracked it down yet, but I don't think it will be all that tough.
If you think you have issues with a dim light, I might suggest that you check voltage. Put your negative meter lead on the negative battery post, turn on headlight, then read the headlight voltage on _both_ sides of both elements (high and low). If your connections are bad anywhere in the ground side of your circuit, you will read something other than 0±.5V or so, on the "low" side. If you don't read close to 12V on the high side, then you have contact issues.
It is necessary to have the light on for the same reason you must load a battery to test it correctly, current demand. The open circuit, ie unloaded voltage to/at the headlight plug (with light removed) may or may not be close to 12V, depending on where the contact resistance is, if present. The problem however, will not show up unless and until you have current flow.

conpewter,
check your Private Messages inbox

Kent

Post edited by: OKC_Kent, at: 2007/02/28 15:01