TOPIC:

hi,i have just installed the dyna s,& green coils.if i add pod filters will i require rejetting.am i just better off to stick with the stock air filter.allso since the pod's are exposed to the weather doe's it affect them.thank's

Read somewhere that airflow is just as good or better with the stock airbox and free flowing filter.

Trust me on this -- I have a pornographic memory.

thanks,i have the pod's allready but i wont use them,dont need more problem's had enough of them lately with the bike.thank's again

you can modify the air box to be as free flowing as pods. you also need the free flowing filter. either way you increase the flow, you need to rejet

what are the advantages.is it really worth it.

I'm sort of wondering the same thing in the thread next door.

One thing for sure is that there are definite disadvantages to pods. Airboxes are part of the intake tuning and help the intake pulse at certain rpms; and on the other side of the coin pods can be susceptible to crosswinds and such. To me the biggest advantage of pods is probably that it makes carb removal so much easier... but then how often do you remove the carbs once you get them working right?

I'm inclined to go with what Patton said, and what 77KZ650 said as well - except that I wouldn't be surprised if the unmodified airbox is just as good as a modified one. The horn design of the intake looks fairly carefully done and I'd be really curious to see whether anything really improves on it at all.

I would definitely go with a foam or gauze air filter, though. There doesn't seem to be any question that the stock one is restrictive.

HTH.

There are undoubtedly advantages and disadvantages to either approach, and most probably many I've never even heard of. With that said, I'll offer a couple of plusses for the air box which center on just being far more maintenance friendly: Ability to wash the bike or operate in severely wet conditions without worrying about getting water into the filter or being sucked in through the carbs; clean quick easy filter changes; help hold and support carbs in the rear so they don't tend to bounce and stress and help crack and even tear loose the rubber intake manifolds (eliminate the need to rig a brace to avoid such stress); allow crankcase venting through the airbox; don't know if there's any noticible difference in the intake noise, but do know the stock airbox version is very quiet.

I'm first to admit the pods look cool as heck (maybe almost as cool looking as velocity stacks).

K&N's (maybe others too) eliminate buying new filters but still require the extra maintenance involved with removing the pods, cleaning the filters, and reinstalling the pods. I have used the same K&N filter in my airbox for 20 years and endure the cleanings to save replacement costs of the paper filters. The K&Ns are supposed to be freer flowing than a new paper filter and filter equally well.

Just random thoughts from one who places a fairly high priority on reducing maintenance needs.

I've had all three intake options on my bike. The stock air box, K & N filters and velocity stacks with screens.

My advice is to keep the stock airbox and drill it at the top for extra air flow along with a free flow filter.

On the highway with stock airbox, air turbulence is less of a factor than filters and stacks as the carbs are drawing air from a more stable air flow area beneath the seat.

Having said this, pods look pretty cool but velocity stacks are the trickest looking. I have polished velocity stacks on my bike which never sees rain, gravel or dusty roads. When I am on the highway my feet are on the rear pegs and my knees are tucked up against the stacks in an attempt to keep the turbulence to a minimum.

Just my 2 cents worth.

Cheers-Colin Firth -Ontario Canada
1977Kz650 Custom - 810 big bore with lottsa go-fast goodies tucked away inside.

reborn650 wrote:

My advice is to keep the stock airbox and drill it at the top for extra air flow along with a free flow filter.
On the highway with stock airbox, air turbulence is less of a factor than filters and stacks as the carbs are drawing air from a more stable air flow area beneath the seat.

yep, yup and dagnabit yep agen
same with me
and, bought a gpz750r1 82 air box that fits easyly into the z650 chassie with rs34carbs, they have cute little velosity stack manafolds extending into the box

in saying that, I have a set of KnN pods and am going to tune them in with a dyno for track ride days. Then change the box and jets etc when back in the road mode

thanks,ill stick with the stock so,with the weather here if i put on the pod's id never get to drive the bike if their that badly afected by rain.another question for ye,im trying to sync the carbs after installing the dyna s,im using the carbtune 11 with the steel rods.problem i can adjust 3 valves to within 2 of each other ,but when i try the fourth the other 3 drop and nothing happens the one im adjusting.it does not matter which one i start from when i come to the last one same thing again.the timing is right ,engine compression very good.when i had it off the bike to sync for idle it was kind of doing the same thing.the carbs are vm24 mikuni .any sugestions.

hi ,i seem to have solved the problem by advancing the timing slightly & raising the needle #15 to the fifth or last notch.all carbs now read 20 to 22 .

rubberlips wrote:

hi ,i seem to have solved the problem by advancing the timing slightly & raising the needle #15 to the fifth or last notch.all carbs now read 20 to 22 .

back again.by doing what i did as in above quote would that affect anything else.the bike is running good now .but another problem seems to have come up. sometimes when i rev it up it just stays reving,i have checked the throttle cables,i cant see no problem there.is it possible for the throttle valves to stick.any suggestions.