TOPIC:

Had pods on the 900. I could not get it dialed in and felt the wind take her breath away. Switched back to airbox. Got some filter material and use a screen as a frame. Didn't have to reject back to factory and she runs nice in all conditions. But just in case I keep the boots siliconed to stay supple. As long as that is done carb removal is a breeze. But from what I gather here some bikes are OK with pods and some are not. Either way I would stay away from the Em pods and go with the k&n if I had to go with anything. Much better quality, but you pay for that.
Remember first ride on her...po did not have a filter in her at all.....when I opened her up I thought the seat was gonna get sucked into that snorkel! Real strange sucking sound AKA Ross Perot.

I was wondering if there would be a flow advantage with pods vs airbox. Using the formula for filter size requirements from K&N I calculate an 1100cc engine at 12000 rpm would need 32 sq inches of filter area. On my KZ1000 the factory airbox 3 sided drop in filter has 48 sq in of surface area or roughly 35% more area than required. I am going with the airbox and a K&N replacement filter! I recently bought an airbox of ebay with the carb boots for $18. There are a lot of MC boneyards, do an internet request for the parts you need. Everytime I have done this I have received multiple replies over a 4 day period with a very wide range of prices.

I've just got to butt in here. I hate it when somebody starts using K&N or K&N-type filters that are made of oiled gauze. Yes, they flow much better, but their particle-apprehension (my engineering background is showing, huh?) really sucks. Yes, pun intended. Oiled foam, like Unifilter, flows as well, and the particle-apprehension is off the charts. K&N, like Fram, have just done a better job selling themselves. But oiled open-cell polyurethane is vastly superior. Don't baby your bike just to pour dirt down its throat.

That is the exact reason I will never put a K&N on any vehicle I own. It may flow more air, but it also flows more dirt. I would prefer my engine to last a long time then to gain a few HP.

Suggestions for an oiled foam filter then?

I have a K&N in my bike right now I think..from the PO.

I ride on clean paved roads and highways. I was interested in comparing the dirt intake on my KZ550 which has a K&N drop-in to my KZ1000 which has a paper drop-in, both in stock airboxes. I had the oil analysed on both bikes after 3,500 km (2,200 mile) change intervals and there was no difference in silicon content - they both ran about 6ppm. I would never use K&N in dusty riding conditions however.

Suggestions for an oiled foam filter then?

Yep.
unifilter.com/
All of my riding has been in dry climate, which automatically means "dusty". When I first got into hotrodding bikes (mid '70's) the most common "pod" filter was the Unifilter. They had one that we refered to as a "sock", 'cause it was a foam filter with a terrycloth cover. Didn't look as COOL as the K&N's that came out later, so everybody switched.
As an aside, I'm building an air filter for my GPz using the air horns (those rubber things that go from the carbs into the airbox, that are just sealed in with silicone sealer), some Plexiglass, and some bulk filter material from Unifilter. I'll post pics when it's done. The advantage to a single filter element is
#1. All cylinders breathe the same air. Jetting is easier! Cross-winds don't mess with the mixture control.
#2. Only 1 filter element to clean and oil!
#3. Keeps the factory's intake length distance. They did the engineering. Why should I try to out-think them?

Pyxen, UNI filters are oiled foam, cost about half and look the part if you get the ones with the fancy chrome caps. They've worked fine for me.


Post edited by: dutchz, at: 2006/10/12 12:11

Unifilters - check.

Now, if I stick with the airbox, is there any downside to cutting the top half of the frontside off (above the boots to the top) to make it removable so that you can mount the boots on the carbs separate from the airbox and slide them in?

It would mean that the carbs/boots would be placed 'on' the airbox, with the top half reinstalled to 'lock' them on..some kind of seal would be used on the top seam, with the two side covers handling the rest...

Does anyone follow me?

Kinda like oldschool public lockups - where the guy's head and hands are through the holes in a big wooden panel, and the top half opens up to let 'em in.

Post edited by: pyxen, at: 2006/10/12 14:31

pstrbrc wrote:

Suggestions for an oiled foam filter then?

Yep.
unifilter.com/. ....
As an aside, I'm building an air filter for my GPz using the air horns (those rubber things that go from the carbs into the airbox, that are just sealed in with silicone sealer), some Plexiglass, and some bulk filter material from Unifilter. I'll post pics when it's done. The advantage to a single filter element is
#1. All cylinders breathe the same air. Jetting is easier! Cross-winds don't mess with the mixture control.
#2. Only 1 filter element to clean and oil!
#3. Keeps the factory's intake length distance. They did the engineering. Why should I try to out-think them?

FYI, a similar aftermarket air filter is available on ebay, at least for the kz1000:

cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/KAWASAKI-Z1-KZ90...QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

there have been about a half dozen of them on ebay in the last month. some used ones even include a new package of unifilter foam.

Ok To pyxen who wants to make his airbox into a gallows. Why? If your boots to the carb are soft like they should be there is no problem putting the carbs in. If you want I'll show you how to do it easy. Just ask. If they are not soft boil them heat them with a hair dryer like some do here or buy new ones and keep them siliconed like I do. Seriously, youre going to a lot of trouble for nothing and the possibility of screwing up your airbox. From some of the posts here airboxes are getting kinda hard to get for some models.

To duncan who posted the link to the chrome airbox that thing is nothing but boxed in pods. Side gusts and such will still make the carbs act funky. You need to isolate the intake from side air. Thats why they took the intakes up under the seat and in some cases they made a snorkel. The chrome airbox you link to was primarily used for choppers.

pstrbrc wrote:They did the engineering. Why should I try to out-think them?
This is a very sensible statement! In most cases.....

I definitely would love some info on how to put the boots back on.

I've got them so that I can bend them a bit, so I think they're soft enough - but I don't know exactly.

I think that cutting the airbox up is definitely an extreme thing to do though. I get 'odd' ideas every now and then - so you can chalk that one up to a brain fart.