New rebuild needs tuning

Hello guys, my first few miles on my newly restored 1975 Z1 were amazing. It started right up and took right off. As it warmed up it started smoking and would not idle at all. It would stall out under 2k rpms. Checked the plugs and they are all sooty and fouled black. When i hooked up my vacuum gauges gas came out of one of the manifold vacuum ports. 

I’ve adjusted the idle mixture screws (they dont really change anything) and I synchronized the carbs with a set of vacuum gauges.  They seem to be balanced, but this is definitely too rich.

I’m running stock exhaust with  stock airbox. The carbs have been rebuilt by me. I used a 113 main jet with a 17 pilot jet. Can anyone tell me if these are correct? Given these symptoms what should I be looking for?

pic of my bike attached 

You might want to check the fuel level using the "clear tube" test method.  Old carbs often have high fuel level, and that causes a multitude of problems when running.

I'm confused? You say "first few miles" then state "as it warmed-up" it fouled-out, two separate episodes? Those 113 and 17 jet numbers are what those aftermarket kits supply so, did you use also use aftermarket Float Needle seats and needles? Correct combo if using the correct 2170 carbs. Pilot Mikuni VM28/486-17.5, Main N100.604-112.5 and Float Seat set VM26/26-2.0 or 2.3. Also as Nessism always mentions, that bowl gasket interference with float(s). Mention it because You probably used aftermarket for that too. Check that your choke lifters are installed correctly and not holding those white plastic/plungers from fully seating. Do You have fuel coming out of the bowl overflow nipples? 

It sounds like a float problem to me.  Did you set your floats?  Should be at 3.5 mm.  What needles did you install?  If OEM they should be set at the second positiion from the top.  What is the number stamped on the float valves?

And it probably is the float assemblies Hardrock. Danam it would appear you were on a mission of completion, everything on that 75 is aftermarket. Seems to be the trend these days but ONE thing You don't want to skimp on are Functional carb bits. Just because they are shiny doesn't mean they will work properly. Hardrock brought up a good point, Jet Needle, did you toss the originals? The whole series of Z's used the 5J9. Yours should be in the 2nd clip position for the 1975. Also should have the Needle Jet O-8 not the earlier P-8. But because those aftermarket kits don't always mark these items it's just a gamble of time and energy. These items are measured differences of .0004" in numerals. That gives you an indication of the precision required. Just buy the Original Mikuni crap i'd sent you part numbers for and half the battle will be resolved. If everyone would follow this path, life would be soo much easier.  

Asphalt's complaint is a good one.  Most people buy aftermarket carb parts and most of the aftermarket stuff is of variable quality.  You pays your money and takes your chance.  I've found over time that Keyster makes the best carb kits but they are expensive.  All their parts are stamped.  Needles for a Z1B are Y45.  

The reason I asked about the float valves is because they come in different heights.  From memory the correct height for a Z1B is 2.2, which you can find stamped on them.  Any other number means you will have to adjust your float tabs.

+1 for float level. Had the same issue. Bike starts fine without choke because it's already rich but dies when warm since it's too rich. Old float needles were rock hard and there was debris in the valve so they wouldn't seal. As Nessim suggested test it with a clear tube. That's an easy and quick check before taking anything apart.

Float valve heights? You mean openings Hardrock but they originally came in the 2.0mm size then changed to the 2.3mm size around 75/76. That's why i typed VM26/26-2.0 or 2.3. the bigger you go the harder it is for the sealing process.  

No, I meant the height of the float valve.  I think there are different physical dimensions.  This means the tang on the float will bottom out later, thus filling the bowl too full.

Now i understand Hardrock. 

just following up with this. You all were spot on when you said float height adjustment. I originally set them to 24mm from the carb body (no gasket) but when I used the drain tube check, it was too high. I ended up setting it at 26.5mm and while that might sound high, it checked out. I put my first 100 miles on it today and it worked perfectly. I've never had a rebuilt motor work so well this soon. the Z1 is a very well engineered engine. One problem I still have is slight gas weeping where the bowls meet the carbs. It's not bad, but just enough to make my wife say the garage smells like gas. I can't crank the bowl screws down any more, do I use sealant? 

Thanks for all the responses, I appreciate the shared knowledge. 

No, don't use a sealant.  If the bike is on the side stand you may get some weeping.  Put it on the center stand and the weeping should stop.  Also, check your petcock to ensure it's not slowly leaking into the carbs.  If the weeping continues I would have another look at the float height for the weeping carb.  I've found Keyster gaskets to be the best.  I use them on my Z1B and my KZ1000.