carb tune help/procedure

KZB2 650 wrote: Hey Mission true on the checking but these are shim under the bucket so you need to remove the cams and not use the tool if one needs to be replaced.....

missionkz wrote: Blink543.... 25,000 miles is way too long to not check cam and shim clearances.
I used to check mine around every 4,000 to 6,000 miles.... seems like a short time but these are NOT cars.
However, did I miss something here or did you say you have what amounts to you either having no interest/willingness or desire to do the cam lobe/shim measurements? Or is it simply, just no experience and fear of the unknown,
Why? Because none of us here ever did it before the first time either!!!
And, after I did it once, I was quite amused to hear my friends say they were taking their bikes "in" to have it done!!
LOL
It turns out, the actual act of measuring is the stupidest easiest part!
The tricky part is slightly holding the valve open with a $10.00 gadget on the edge of the bucket, wedged in between it and the camshaft, while slipping the shim out with a pair of tweezers.
The maddening part to me has always been buying, ordering and waiting for the shims needed to replace the ones that are a tiny bit too thick now.... etc.
I can't speak for others but I've don't think I've ever had to replace a shim that was anymore then one or two sizes thinner then the number on the shim I pulled out..... unless the head had recently had new valves installed and or a valve grind job.
But you might not even know that so.... get a factory manual and read all about it. You'll quickly discover how simple checking lash is... then if you need more help... you are in the right place.

missionkz wrote:

KZB2 650 wrote: Hey Mission true on the checking but these are shim under the bucket so you need to remove the cams and not use the tool if one needs to be replaced.....

Ouch for a newbie. But checking the gap is still easy.

blink543 wrote:

missionkz wrote:

KZB2 650 wrote: Hey Mission true on the checking but these are shim under the bucket so you need to remove the cams and not use the tool if one needs to be replaced.....

Ouch for a newbie. But checking the gap is still easy.

I have the tool to check the gaps

blink543 wrote:

TexasKZ wrote: Typically, the gap gets smaller, sometimes less than zero. When the lash gets near or to zero cold, the cam can actually hold the valve open slightly when it is supposed to be closed. Under these conditions, the performance of the engine will slowly deteriorate, ultimately to a point at which it will not run. Often, valves and seats get burned, which can be expensive to fix.
It is not a terribly complicated or expensive procedure, and it may help your present difficulties, though I doubt if this is the only problem. It may also save you money later.

blink543 wrote:

TexasKZ wrote: By the way, 25,000 miles without checking the valve lash is much too long. That could be the main problem.

Yes maybe but it's not like I'm never going to do it probably later this yr or next spring. What symptoms would I be experiencing if they needed adjusting? I mean I do hear the cams hitting the buckets a little but I think that's normal.

0 as in the opposite of the lobe actually touching the bucket when it's not supposed to? Is that what I'm understanding?

blink543 wrote: Ok wtf I opened it up to find out the cam chain is skipping again I just fixed this a month ago with a newer tensioner it came out of alignment again

TexasKZ wrote: WOW! Are you absolutely sure? With a new tensioner and useable rubbing blocks, that is almost impossible. What makes you think there is a problem?

blink543 wrote: Ok wtf I opened it up to find out the cam chain is skipping again I just fixed this a month ago with a newer tensioner it came out of alignment again