Plug Issue and Miss Issue

There are 2 nipples. One between the #1 and # 2 carbs and one between the #3 and #4 carbs. I don't know if they are overflow tubes or vent tubes.

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I found the problem withe fuel overflowing from the vent tube. I guess I was trying to get the float level done to fast and bent the tab on the #2 carb to far and it was not making contact with anything. I then tried syncing the carbs and the idle was so high that I had to totally back out the main idle screw to wehre it is not touching before the idle would come down. Now it is not touching and the idle is still around 1500 rpm. I am going to take the carbs back off on Monday, set the idle screw, bench sync them and then try to sync them with the bike running again. Does it look like I am missing something ? Thanks.

When bench syncing, remember to allow sufficient threads on the thumb idle screw to permit further lowering the slides when later performing the engine running sync.

May perform clear tube test on the bench with carbs held level.
May use rubbing alcohol or odorless mineral spirits where gasoline odor is an issue.

Usually only one float bowl screw is needed during the process of achieving the correct tang adjustment.

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I will be taking the carbs back of tomorrow and checking to make sure that there is room for adjustment using the idle screw, then benching syncing the cards and the syncing them with the bike running. When syncing them with the bike running, I thought that you adjusted the screw under the top cover for the highest idle. Is that not correct ? I did that and had to back the idle screw all the way out for the idle to come down.

Running sync is the final step in a tuning journey.

If not already done before syncing with engine running, would assure perfect functioning of the timing advancer, and visually observe spark quality (looking for fat blue sparks), and assure valve clearances are within specs, and assure correct uniform fuel levels via the clear tube test.

The procedure of adjusting the float height to conform with some measured distance while the carbs are upside down on the workbench, may or may not happen to come close to the correct height necessary to provide the correct fuel level. The fuel level is critical. When the fuel levels are correct in all carbs, it's likely that the measured float heights will vary among the carbs.

Carb performance depends on proper functioning of the other components, and even a perfect carb can't compensate for deficiencies in the other components.

Attempting to sync without first attending to all the other items upon which carb performance depends, is usually an exercise in futility.

Sometimes the clear tube test doesn't require any type of special tool, fitting, barb, or whatever; and the end of the tube itself may be snugly fitted inside the drain hole. Minimal leakage where the tube connects to the float bowl drain won't adversely affect the test results.

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Would refer to the detailed sync instructions in the service manual provided in KZr's FILEBASE.

Click > www.kzrider.com/filebase/doc_download/43...asaki-service-manual

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I did the clear tube test because the #1 carb was leaking a little bit of fuel overnight. The bike was running pretty good before I tried to sync the carb with the pro-motion carb tool. I will check the carbs again tomorrow and try bench sync and so on afterwards.

BIGKEVIN wrote: I did the clear tube test because the #1 carb was leaking a little bit of fuel overnight. The bike was running pretty good before I tried to sync the carb with the pro-motion carb tool. I will check the carbs again tomorrow and try bench sync and so on afterwards.

As noted, running sync is the final step in a tuning journey.
Prerequisites for proper running sync include proper functioning and settings of other components such as float valve, float, fuel level (as verified by the clear tube test), etc.

Result of clear tube test will be invalid if carb is discharging fuel through the overflow circuit (a) when the fuel level is already way too high, which is often due to a malfunctioning float valve or float mechanism, or (b) too low, due perhaps to a cracked overflow tube.

Sync effort is likely futile on a carb with a leaking float valve.
Sync effort is inaccurate on carb with incorrect fuel level.

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I corrected the problem with the fuel flowing out of the overflow tube. Somehow I got the tab on the #2 float bent up so far that it was not making contact with anything, so the fuel would just keep running into the carb. After getting issue fixed, I tried syncing the carbs and now the bike just idles real high, so high that I have the idle screw backed out all the way to where it is not touching anything. I plan on pulling the carbs back off again tomorrow.

BIGKEVIN wrote: I corrected the problem with the fuel flowing out of the overflow tube. Somehow I got the tab on the #2 float bent up so far that it was not making contact with anything, so the fuel would just keep running into the carb. After getting issue fixed, I tried syncing the carbs and now the bike just idles real high, so high that I have the idle screw backed out all the way to where it is not touching anything. I plan on pulling the carbs back off again tomorrow.

The bench sync leaves throttle slides at equal heights.

As often happens, the later running sync requires lower throttle slide heights achieved by further turning out the idle adjustment screw, which entails having sufficient thread remaining on the idle adjustment screw.

When bench syncing, remember to allow sufficient threads on the thumb idle screw to permit further lowering the slides when later performing the engine running sync.
Failure to do so is probably what caused: now the bike just idles real high, so high that I have the idle screw backed out all the way to where it is not touching anything.

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I took the carbs back apart yesterday and when I took the bowl off of the #3 carb, the main jet fell out. The threads on it had stripped. I got another one from the local motorcycle junk yard and clean it up and it inserted it into the bike. I started it up and it sounded pretty good. Took it out for a quick ride and when I turned the bike off and the fuel, it was still leaking on the left hand side. I took the carbs off again and found #2 pod had fuel in it. I did the clear tube test again and it was high. Redid the clear tube test again and it was high. Reseat the fuel level and restarted the bike again and it sounded strong. Show I try and resync the carbs again ? After putting it back together the last time, it was dark and I did not take it for a ride to see how it felt.