Corroded carbs

My latest score included two racks of VM28s. One of them is pretty decent, needs a proper rebuild and should be good to go, but the other is pretty corroded- enough that the slides or choke do not move. Any suggestions of what I can soak them in?

Everyone says ATF/Acetone 50/50 is a great rust eater. You could start with a normal carb dip, too.

You can try boiling them in a solution of water and lemon juice. One part lemon juice, 6 parts water. No need for me to point out the removal of any rubber parts first. No matter which method. I purchased an old pot from Goodwill for the job. Would suggest doing it outside if you go this way so you don't stink up your house. I did it on my barbecue burner. Not sure this is the best method, but at least you are not dealing with harsh chemicals. Good luck.

Joe

Agreed - I have done the lemon juice just to clean, I suppose it would probably free up the slide as well. I know you're not married, but it still stinks to high hell if you choose to do it inside. :whistle:

Ultrasonic cleaner & lemon juice? (with water obviously)

These are what I'm working with:


I took the top caps and float bowls off last night, they are clean inside, I was surprised! It just looks like there is external corrosion.

Should I completely disassemble the carbs before boiling in the lemon juice solution? I was just going to dip the carbs in an old metal toolbox sitting on my propane grill outside to boil for a few hours.

Is 112.5 main jets the stock jetting?

Also, anyone have a single top cap screw, four float bowl screws and a float bowl they're willing to part with?

mtbspeedfreak wrote: These are what I'm working with:

I took the top caps and float bowls off last night, they are clean inside, I was surprised! It just looks like there is external corrosion.

Should I completely disassemble the carbs before boiling in the lemon juice solution? I was just going to dip the carbs in an old metal toolbox sitting on my propane grill outside to boil for a few hours.

You don't have to take them completely apart. You can at least leave them attached to the rack. But because of the rubber parts you will need to take most everything else off (accelerator shaft due to the the grommets, any diaphragms, floats, etc) off. Should take all the jets off to allow better flow of the solution and so forth. After the lemon juice/water cooing is done. You should still use carb cleaner through the passages (pilot circuit as per Patton's instructions and the choke circuit) and compressed air through the passages to finish it off. Mine had mud packs in some of the passages. And the boiling will not work on that as great as other debris. So the better you clean it the less chance for issues later on. Good luck.

Joe

Any rubber parts are what you are worried about with the dip. Also, it will free up any gunk (hopefully) in the fuel and air passages so you will want to remove needles and stuff like that. Gaskets will get ruined likely if left on as well.

mtbspeedfreak wrote:
Also, anyone have a single top cap screw, four float bowl screws and a float bowl they're willing to part with?[/quote

I've got the screws. I replaced mine with SS Allen heads. Can't help with the bowl. PM me.

TomW wrote:

mtbspeedfreak wrote:
Also, anyone have a single top cap screw, four float bowl screws and a float bowl they're willing to part with?[/quote

I've got the screws. I replaced mine with SS Allen heads. Can't help with the bowl. PM me.

Thanks I have the screws taken care of, still looking for the float bowl. I'll post something in the "Wanted" section soon.

Try some PB Blaster down the sides of the slides and let them sit for an afternoon, it will allow the slides to free up nicely. As for the chokes, I found that removing the carbs from the rack will allow you to remove them easily and soak them separately to get them moving, again as said before, remove as many parts, especially rubber stuff to free things up faster and not ruin anything. Be careful trying to move the choke lever as they are prone to cracking around the area marked "choke" and are expensive little suckers to replace!
Good luck David