84 GPZ 1100 conversion to BS34 question

When you convert an 84 GPZ 1100 from DFI to carbs does the petcock clear the carbs ? what do you do with the gas line return fitting on the gastank ? What happens to the DFI warning light when you unplug the wirring harness . Finally does anyone know the specs to troubleshout the TPS ? I have the factory manual, including the supplement but no help . Thanks in advance .

If you don't get the answers you need here, you might also consider joining the GPz1100 group in Yahoo Groups...it is administered out of Canada, is an active group, and they have dealt with this issue.

demetre wrote:

When you convert an 84 GPZ 1100 from DFI to carbs does the petcock clear the carbs ? what do you do with the gas line return fitting on the gastank ? What happens to the DFI warning light when you unplug the wirring harness . Finally does anyone know the specs to troubleshout the TPS ? I have the factory manual, including the supplement but no help . Thanks in advance .

What's the particular problem it has?

TPS is adjustable and cures many idle and part throttle stumbling issues when adjusted properly.

ECU has a trouble code light. What are the codes if any?

I ran the DFI with all kinds of engine combinations and it works well. Can't see the need to toss it in favor of carbs unless they're good carburetors.

Don't hobble / cobble a performance bike setup with cruiser carbs like BS34's unless that's all you can afford..

JMO

Larry C

the way i adjusted the tps on the turbo bike was letting it idle and just turning it till it idled smooth.
there is a tool for it but this way will get you real close.
fwiw, i agree with larry.
don't hack a complete system unless gone beyond repair.
on the ecm there is a light, it will flash trouble codes with the key on.
please go look at that and tell us what codes it's throwing.

kawsakiman wrote:

the way i adjusted the tps on the turbo bike was letting it idle and just turning it till it idled smooth.
there is a tool for it but this way will get you real close.
fwiw, i agree with larry.
don't hack a complete system unless gone beyond repair.
on the ecm there is a light, it will flash trouble codes with the key on.
please go look at that and tell us what codes it's throwing.

That's the best way to set the TPS. Much more accurate than the OEM tool.

the petcock doesn't clear the carb tops it has to be relocated just cap the return fitting

No Fault codes . No air leaks . All stock . Clean throttle bodies . Clean injectors . checked pump and fuel preasure regulator . Cannot get it to do anything right consistantly .The symptoms change all the time . Iam suspecting the Tps , but do not know how to troubleshout it . It also doent exist anymore as anew part from the dealer . By the way the bike only has 17K and is a creampuff.

demetre wrote:

No Fault codes . No air leaks . All stock . Clean throttle bodies . Clean injectors . checked pump and fuel preasure regulator . Cannot get it to do anything right consistantly .The symptoms change all the time . Iam suspecting the Tps , but do not know how to troubleshout it . It also doent exist anymore as anew part from the dealer . By the way the bike only has 17K and is a creampuff.

Read my GPz1100 DFI experience:

kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&...03310&catid=3#403310

demetre wrote:

It also doent exist anymore as a new part from the dealer . .

are you sure about that?
one was still available for the turbo but was very expensive.
iirc it was $486.

The dealer gave me also the crazy price but showed it n/a in their network . not sure if i would have paid it had it been available , but i almost have no choice . I would hate to part the bike out , because it is so nice and original .

Great info , Thanks . I still need to make sure that the TPS is good though . Do you know how to bench test it ? I have been told something about an ohm meter attached to the prongs , but i dont know which ones and what the readings should be .

Have you tried cleaning the TPS? It's a variable carbon resistor that gets dirty over time.

To clean it, get some electronic contact cleaner(I use a brand called De-oxit available at Radio Shack Stores).

Remove the small wire clip holding the electrical conector to the TPS, remove the connector, and spray the contact cleaner up inside the TPS while opening and closing the throttle several times flushing out any carbon dust.

All of this is done with the engine off(not running), re-connect the TPS cable, and secure the wire clip.

Start up the bike and see if there is an improvement.



Why WD-40 Should Not Be Used On Motorcycle Electrical Items.

For many years, I was proponent of the use of WD-40 on fuse clips, fuses, switches and connectors. After hearing of other peoples experience with intermittent and sporadic activity, I shrugged it off as maybe they did something wrong in the application of the product.

It wasn’t until the time I rode my 1982 GPz1100 B2 model to downtown San Diego that I encountered the problems others had gone through.

After concluding my business downtown, I walked to where my bike was parked, turned the key to unlock the forks, and prepared to start the engine. The key was in the “On” position, yet I had no lights in the dash panel, the fuel pump was not running(I have FI), and the horn and tail light were not working.

Stumped as to why nothing electrical was happening, I remember my earlier conversations about how WD-40 will over time become a non-conductor(more like an insulator). I had some pieces of 400 and 600 grit sandpaper in my tool kit and with them was able to scratch away the coating from the WD-40 on the fuses and clips.

After removing the insulating film, the bike started and ran like it should. Since that time, I’ve told people about the problem with WD-40. If you must use a contact cleaner, I recommend getting some “De-oxit” from Radio Shack Stores or any good electronic supply store. www.deoxit.com is their website.