So where does everything go?

Forgive my stupidity, I just finished replacing my old carbs with a set of rebuilt ones. Does any one have a schematic or picture of which fuel/vacumn lines go where?

I've never attempted a bike operation like this before, and the previous owner routed some weird spigot to suffice as a petcock. I should have taken' pictures before tearing into this project.


Also, any tips on how to hook up a fuel line with very little space? I'd hate to take the carbs off again.


BTW: Thanks to all those who advised me on the airbox issue. The new boots are much easier.

what carb's and also which bike so that we may be able to assist you further sir?

Here's a typical setup for mechanical slide carbs

Guessing subject bike may be 1978 KZ650 mentioned in an earlier thread.

Good Luck!

dAMN you just answered all my questions. Thanks and may your bikes all fire right..




Al

Nicely done Patton

Thanks to the pic I got it all together today. And yes it is a 78 KZ650 c (can't believe I left that out).


I filled her up with gas, opened the petcock, and a copious amount of fuel spilled out all over the garage floor.


I shut off the petcock, eased the bike out of the garage so as not to start a fire, and turned the petcock back on to find out that the fuel was leaking out of two of the carb bowl overflow tubes.


Stuck float I guess? I did start the beast up and did a circle of my back yard, and the fact that it started and ran after a year of sitting is cause for celebrations!:woohoo:


But when I parked it was still leaking a copious amount of fuel...:S Like a dog pissing on your floor.



This carb has been in a sealed box for the past three years, but the rebuilder was reputable, and the carb has probably fine when he first sent it.



Suggestions? And again: Thank you all so much!

Since you know which carbs overflow this should be fairly easy. Shut off fuel, drain the 2 carbs in question, remove the bowls (carbs can stay on bike - yippee!), remove the little stubby float needle, clean the needle and the orifice (jet) that it goes into. Don't use anything abrasive or you may creat little scratches that will cause slow leaks. Carb cleaner and rag/Q-tip should do it. Reassemble and test. You may want to put an inline filter on because it could be crud in the tank fouling the float needle. Ed

I'm on it tomorrow. Excellent news that I might not have to remove the #$%^$%*& carbs again. I bought this bike three years ago, and it never started up as beautifully as she did today, even with the stuck float. When touring the back yard tonight, she purred quite nicely. I can't wait to get the bike out on the road. I'll try to get some pics.

Sometimes, with engine running, rapping smartly against float bowl of overflowing carb with plastic hammer or screw driver handle will allow the float valve to re-seat and live happily ever after.

Might also want to check out Z1E's airbox hoses.
New hoses are soft and pliable, making carb r&r a pleasure.

Good Luck!

Thanks, I did get the airbox hoses from z1. Made the carb switch possible! I tryed the rapping idea. Will try again after the night allows more lubrication. I just wanna hear that engine start and feel it purr, before I do the surgery/

I really never had any luck working on carbs in a bike. As for dropping bowls while on a bike I guess it can be done but why go through the headache? Especially with new boots. Remove the carbs and get the floats straightened out then re-install the carbs by

As for hooking up the gas lines and cables there is no finer tool than hemostats. Lots of hardware stores now sells them or you can order a fine supply off the internet.

GLuck!

Loco wrote: "As for dropping bowls while on a bike I guess it can be done but why go through the headache"

What headache? To drop a bowl you simply remove 4 screws. You must be kidding if you think removing the carbs is easier than that when you will STILL need to remove the same 4 screws. I've done this many times and I've removed the carbs several times for other reasons, and believe me, removing the 4 screws is easier no matter how pliable the boots are because you don't need to play with the throttle cables or anything other than the 4 screws. Ed