adjustments on a 200A info?

my 77' kz200a starts up right away and will run good with choke on, as it warms it starts to flood out with or without choke.with no experiance or knowlage about this i need info on air fuel adjustments. if some one can help i'll be most gratefull.

What makes you think the carburetor is "flooding" when the bike warms? Let's see if we can understand what is going on...

Bike starts and idles with choke on. When you take choke off, it dies if you give it throttle? Am I reading your question right?

While the choke is on it will idle at 3000 until it gets to operating temp then it will spudder and die. it will start once or twice again without giving it throttle and choke on. at anytime during this warm up i move choke any it die. i've made my own cars run all my life and relize it'll die if i unchoke before its warmed up. i however am a virgin rider and know very little about these bikes. when it is running you can smell that it is running rich. also a week prior i was cruzing up and down my street for hours and it ran great. only info left that may help is before me it sat in a garage for 18 years. a family member that has rode all is life cleaned the carb real good twice and the tank and feul cock. a million thanks for responding, i need all the help i can get.

If not already done, would first assure valve clearances being to specs and existence of a good fat properly timed spark, before addressing carbs.

Good Luck!

Sounds like the pilot jet or pilot circuit is obstructed.

whether the timeing is right i'm not sure, but i did put new plug and battery in it. how is the timeing checked?

would it be better to kit the carb or buy a new or used

iamwhoiam151 wrote:

whether the timeing is right i'm not sure, but i did put new plug and battery in it. how is the timeing checked?

Supposed to see a good fat spark when viewed with the spark plug removed and held against the engine (ignition switched ON, tranmission in neutral, and using starter motor or kick starter to spin engine over, same as if attempting to crank it up, but with the plug removed).

Timing is best checked with a timing light while the engine is running, called "dynamic" timing as opposed to "static" timing with engine not running. Should also be able to watch the automatic timing advancer unit operate back and forth as rpm's are varied by blipping the throttle. Sometimes the advancer get sticky from lack of lubrication or need for cleaning.

Good Luck!

iamwhoiam151 wrote:

would it be better to kit the carb or buy a new or used

Am thinking wiredgeorge is likely correct about the pilot jet or pilot circuit still being obstructed. But carb replacement is usually not necessary. Sometimes replacing a really crusty inexpensive pilot jet is easier than cleaning it where the holes in it are easily damaged.

A too tight valve clearance can allow a cold engine to crank up and then cause the engine to die when it warms up. This is because the valves may be barely seating enough when cold and allowing sufficient compression for initial cranking. With insufficient clearance (gap), the expansion from heat no longer allows the valve to fully close against its seat, whereby the engine dies from loss of compression.

Many carbs have been wrongfully blamed when poor performance is actually due to poor compression or weak spark or improperly timed spark. Even a perfect carb cannot compensate for problems in these other components.

That's why it's a good idea to check the valve clearances and spark quality and ignition timing, including condition of points and point gap, before resorting to the carbs. Also air filter, ample clean fuel supply, and basically everything else, including fresh oil and filter, before resorting to the carbs.

Good Luck!

Another possiblity for the "crank and run momentarily before dying" syndrome is fuel starvation. Meaning fuel is too slowly drizzling into and filling the carb float bowl. A full float bowl allows the engine to momentarily run and then quit until the carb float bowl again refills.

Fuel starvation may be caused by grit or crud inside the fuel tank collecting on and clogging the petcock tubes up inside the tank, dirty petcock screen, clogged petcock, dirty inline fuel filter, etc. Also possible fuel cap "vent" obstruction. And probably some other reasons not immediately comimg to mind.

Could remove and flush out fuel tank; remove, disassemble and clean petcock, replace in-line fuel filter; test run with fuel cap ajar (not snapped down tight) to test for clogged vent in cap.

Good Luck!

Ok I removed tank again and cleaned and flushed it. I need to change the oil, so i removed the starter and removed timeing cover ( i believe that's what it is called) when i drained the oil it came out like it was water it was full of gas. I cleaned it real good. i saw were the timing marks are but i am unfamiliar with these, there is "F" and "T" marks and moving counter clockwise there are two markes about 3/4" down from "F" an "T". On the cover i also found the timing arrow. While i was at it i removed the carb and took it apart as much as possible, cleaned and inspected. I havent tried to start it yet as it was last nite that i got it back together enough to try and thought it be wise to wait till i was more awake incase i forgot something inportant. thanks again to you and wiredgeorge for all the help so far.

I don't know if this covers you year, or if you already have one, but here is a KZ200 service manual.

KZ200 manual