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Idle
- Ag3NT
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Thanks to everyone, I can get the bike kick started The electric starter wouldn't start the bike at all. I wonder if maybe the starter clutch was slipping just enough that the engine couldn't build enough vacuum to start. Now I just need to fix the idle. I think that I may have to rip the carbs apart again. I have the idle set screw backed all the way out but it still idles at 5000 rpm. I think something is stuck in the carb, but I wonder there too. It only goes up to 5000 rpm when the bike starts to warm up but not for the first couple of minutes.
OK I jut removed the carbs and everything looks fine. The butterfly valves are shut and the diaphragms look good. No clues here, can anyone suggest anything?
Steve
KZ750M1 CSR
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- rstnick
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Have you checked for any cracks or leaks in the manifolds? On either side of the carbs, before and aft. Spraying carb cleaner or WD40 around the manifolds while the bike is running, and seeing if there's a change in RPM would indicate a leak in the manifolds.
Rob
CANADA
Need a key for your Kawasaki? PM me
1978 KZ650 C2, 130K kms, Delkevic ex, EI, CVK32, PMC easy clutch, ATK fork brace, steering damper, braced swingarm, ZRX shocks, 18" Z1R front wheel.
2000 ZRX1100
2011 Ninja 250R - Wife's
2005 z750s
1978 KZ1000 project
1983 KZ1000R2
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- Ag3NT
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- Shoe48
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- Live each day as it is your last
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- arobsum
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everything expands with heat. the leak would show up when hot but not when cold...Why would a leak only come into play when the bike warms up? When it is cold it idles fine.
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- kzwolfsr
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1979 KZ SR650, stock candy persimmon red and crossover pipes
1981 KZ 1000LTD with non stock and more comfortable handle bars and 4 into one V&H
Original man of the Caribbean
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- Ag3NT
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Steve
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- Patton
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Crud inside the tank may hover suspended in the fuel. When running, the suspended crud may be drawn toward and collect on and obstruct the petcock fuel intake parts fitting up inside the tank. The sensation when riding feels like running out of gas. In this situation, switching to reserve sometimes adds a little more flow from inside the tank via the petcock reserve intake and then on through the petcock outlet and fuel line to the carbs.
Would suggest the following to avoid re-contaminating the carbs (despite repeated efforts, they don't stay clean):
Remove petcock from the tank and clean the area that fits up inside the tank.
Disassemble and clean petcock mechanicals.
Drain fuel tank and flush out with fresh gas to remove existing loose crud, grit, etc. Add fresh gas and physically shake the tank and rapidly drain it out the gas cap filler hole. Repeat several times until only clean fuel comes out.
Attach petcock to fuel tank.
Test flow of fuel through the petcock.
Use new fuel line or use existing line only after cleaning and blowing the line clear with compressed air.
Install a new in-line fuel filter.
The above steps should assure an ample supply of clean fuel going into the carbs. And until so assured, other testing and adjustments are problematical.
Realize this has been an exasperating ongoing problem for quite some time, and hoping to help get your bike back in business.
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
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- Ag3NT
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Steve
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- Patton
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I'll try cleaning out the petcock/tank this week. Other people have mentioned maybe weak spark or timing since I can smell gas. How would I check and fix that? Would new points and condensers help anything at all? Wiling to try anything at this point.
Could be an ignition issue also, but because "the bike ran fine all weekend," am guessing ignition is okay for now, even if marginal. Having a workable idle speed helps in diagnosing the ignition. Also valve clearances might be an issue (or other compression factors). Will want to assure all non-carb matters being within specs insofar as possible before final carb tuning and adjustments.
Remember the in-line fuel filter.
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
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- trippivot
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Spark-Fuel-Compression---thats it
1. setting points is an art that requires practice
2. float levels need to be within a millimeter of spec.
3.complete fuel system needs to be clean!!tank to float drain
4.fix/check the plug wire ends and caps and get extra NEW spark plugs
5.valve lash and carb sync after that
6.wiring/battery
7. uhhhhh lets have a beeer
8. sell it to me (no I'm kidding)
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- Ag3NT
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Steve
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