Exhaust flange torque specs

  • KZReeder
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Exhaust flange torque specs

01 Oct 2006 13:14
#80955
My manual does not have any torque specs for bolting up the exhaust on my 79 KZ1000st... got new copper washers and would like to put the correct torque on them.

Anyone know of any specific torque settings for these?

Thanks!
Claude

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  • Duck
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Re: Exhaust flange torque specs

01 Oct 2006 13:19
#80957
Will be in the general specifications section for 8mm fasteners.
Make sure they are clean.
-Duck

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  • KZReeder
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Re: Exhaust flange torque specs

01 Oct 2006 13:23
#80959
Aaah! Thanks!:pinch:

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  • bemoore
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Re: Exhaust flange torque specs

28 Oct 2008 07:58
#244257
I'm not a big advocate of reviving old threads, but this is my exact question.

Duck wrote:
Will be in the general specifications section for 8mm fasteners.
Make sure they are clean.
-Duck

The general specifications section of My Clymer manual doesn't have general torque specs for various sized fasteners. It has specs for several engine and brake fasteners, but NOTHING on any part of the exhaust. Does anyone know the correct torque for the exhaust flange nuts on a 77 650? I did find this general spec: www.dansmc.com/torque_chart.htm

From that I'd use the 8-12 ft-lb spec.
77 KZ650C1 w/Kerker 4-1

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  • Patton
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Re: Exhaust flange torque specs

28 Oct 2008 15:32 - 28 Oct 2008 15:34
#244325
FWIW, FSM for '77-79 KZ1000 specifies "less than 43 in-lbs" for exhaust stud bolts (8mm).

On the large fours, exhaust stud bolt size was increased from 6mm to 8mm beginning with the '77 model.

Am uncertain about size of '77 KZ650 exhaust stud bolt. If the same 8mm size, would seem logical to apply same torque spec as KZ1000 unless otherwise shown in KZ650 FSM.

Am careful not to over-tighten, and regularly check the nuts. If a nut gets loose, some goo usually appears on the fins around the exhaust port. If a nut gets really loose or falls off, would expect some obvious exhaust leak noise, and then simply tighten or replace the nut. Not a significant problem, at least when compared to a stripped or broken stud.

Good Luck! :)
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
Last edit: 28 Oct 2008 15:34 by Patton.

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  • 77_650B1
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Re: Exhaust flange torque specs

28 Oct 2008 15:48
#244327
I just put them tight enough, haha.
1977 KZ650-B1
-Dual Discs
-Dyna-S
-WG Coil Mod
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  • PLUMMEN
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Re: Exhaust flange torque specs

28 Oct 2008 17:44
#244354
77_650B1 wrote:
I just put them tight enough, haha.
ditto!:laugh:
Still recovering,some days are better than others.

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  • bemoore
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Re: Exhaust flange torque specs

28 Oct 2008 18:17
#244359
77_650B1 wrote:
I just put them tight enough, haha.
Same here, but I've been having exhaust leaks. I tightened them down to 60 in-lbs, which is only 5 ft-lbs, so I thought I was on the low side if anything. If it's the same as Patton's KZ1000, it looks like 43 in-lbs may be the max.

Thanks for the info. Anyone else have a definitive spec for a 77 650?
77 KZ650C1 w/Kerker 4-1

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  • Patton
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Re: Exhaust flange torque specs

28 Oct 2008 18:37 - 28 Oct 2008 18:39
#244371
bemoore wrote:
[quote... been having exhaust leaks....[/quote]

Using new copper exhaust gaskets with a little Permatex hi-temp on both sides should prevent/seal any leaks.

The Permatex also holds the gaskets in place inside the head recess while fitting the header onto the engine.

Good Luck! :)

[Click on image to enlarge view]

1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
Last edit: 28 Oct 2008 18:39 by Patton.

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  • keith1
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Re: Exhaust flange torque specs

28 Oct 2008 18:49
#244377
if you want to go low budget a little dab o' grease out of the grease gun will hold the copper rings in place.........:laugh:

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  • greychur
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Re: Exhaust flange torque specs

29 Oct 2008 15:34
#244517
I had to use two copper washers in two exhaust ports to stop exhaust leaks on my 79 kz1000st...
Paul
1978 Z650C2. Marshall 4 into 1. Newtronic ignition. Otherwise stock(ish).
1979 KZ1000ST. Harris 4 into 1. Dyna S.
Hampshire, England

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  • RonKZ650
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Re: Exhaust flange torque specs

29 Oct 2008 16:15
#244525
The 650 uses 6mm studs, so tighten to the normal 6mm torque around 5-5.5ft/lb max. It's not crucial having the right torque. I too just tighten til they are tight because I'm too darn lazy to look up torque values or a torque wrench. If you replace the copper rings, recheck bolts for tightness after a few hundred miles. There should be no reason to have to use more than one ring ever I wouldn't think. If you do, you stand a very good chance of having the pipe seat on the head casting instead of in the hole for the exhaust port.
321,000 miles on KZ's that I can remember. Not going to see any more.

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