Replacing leaky gearchange shaft oil seal (GPz750)
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Replacing leaky gearchange shaft oil seal (GPz750)
17 Jul 2026 06:22
Hi -
I've been struggling a bit to replace a leaky oil seal on the gearchange shaft of my '84 GPz750.
Logic, general knowledge and specific advice indicated that the seal should pull straight out with use of a standard tool for such a job, a pick; or a self-tapping screw. Not having a pick with the right dimensions made me try the latter approach, but I was unable to get the seal to move even a gnat's willy length (technical term) outwards, even after heating the shift cover with a propane/butane flame to around 70-80 centigrades. I just pulled the screw out from the seal, leaving it even more leaky than before.
So I had to dig deeper; off with chain, sprocket and the shift mechanism cover. Then I had to punch the seal out, using a socket as a drift and a 2 pound hammer. I even had to warm up the cover again to get it to move.
My first note to self is that if I ever come across another leaky shift shaft seal, I'll try and glue a new seal to the outside of the old one first.
After this 'warning', I have a question. When I took off the shift mechanism cover, I noticed a tiny but long coil spring stuck behind (and above) the shift shaft - can anyone tell me where it's supposed to be? It is 1.5 mm in diameter, and approx. 45 mm long, but the ends are distorted. You can see it on the sheet of tissue in the picture, next to the seal.
I've been struggling a bit to replace a leaky oil seal on the gearchange shaft of my '84 GPz750.
Logic, general knowledge and specific advice indicated that the seal should pull straight out with use of a standard tool for such a job, a pick; or a self-tapping screw. Not having a pick with the right dimensions made me try the latter approach, but I was unable to get the seal to move even a gnat's willy length (technical term) outwards, even after heating the shift cover with a propane/butane flame to around 70-80 centigrades. I just pulled the screw out from the seal, leaving it even more leaky than before.
So I had to dig deeper; off with chain, sprocket and the shift mechanism cover. Then I had to punch the seal out, using a socket as a drift and a 2 pound hammer. I even had to warm up the cover again to get it to move.
My first note to self is that if I ever come across another leaky shift shaft seal, I'll try and glue a new seal to the outside of the old one first.
After this 'warning', I have a question. When I took off the shift mechanism cover, I noticed a tiny but long coil spring stuck behind (and above) the shift shaft - can anyone tell me where it's supposed to be? It is 1.5 mm in diameter, and approx. 45 mm long, but the ends are distorted. You can see it on the sheet of tissue in the picture, next to the seal.
A 1984 GPz750 needing TLC once followed me home . . .
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Re: Replacing leaky gearchange shaft oil seal (GPz750)
17 Jul 2026 08:40
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Re: Replacing leaky gearchange shaft oil seal (GPz750)
17 Jul 2026 08:42
That looks like the garter spring from inside the seal that applies pressure to the inside of the seal lip.
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1974 Honda CB 550 K0
1975 Honda CB 400F Super Sport
1977 Kawasaki KZ 1000 LTD
1978 Kawasaki KL 250
1980 Suzuki GS 1100E
1983 Honda CB 1100F
1984 Honda Sabre 700
1984 Honda Interceptor 1000
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Re: Replacing leaky gearchange shaft oil seal (GPz750)
Yesterday 09:08That looks like the garter spring from inside the seal that applies pressure to the inside of the seal lip.
Obviously
To my defence, I'll say that I never have come across a loose garter spring before, since they all have stayed inside the seals I've pulled out.
And I once say someone else's picture of a Z shift fork mechanism, with a spring attached to control their movement. No such spring in my GPz, so I got slightly worried seeing a loose spring . . .
A 1984 GPz750 needing TLC once followed me home . . .
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