clutch

Greetings to all, it has been a while. I have finished my black 1980 750 LTD that I bought from the showroom 46 years ago. I figured since I know how to work on that one, I bought this year the one I didn't buy 46 years ago. This one was surely not cared for as well as the one I bought years ago. It wasn't exactly neglected but whoever work on it was lacking skills and was very adept at using gasket seal, on everything. It did not run when I bought it, but it did turn over and the electrical system seemed to work. I have spent much time cleaning everything including the carburetor's which were loaded with gasket seal. 
  My issue now is the clutch. I decided that it would be a good idea to, of course, adjust the clutch and lubricate the clutch release lever. The issue here is the push-rod does not push in now. It did when I bought it but it has been sitting now for seven months. Did I pull the push rod out it too far and something dropped in the engine or get mis-aligned?  Have the clutch plates frozen? I did turn over the engine a few times through the months.  Thanks for the help.  
 

Nice looking pair of bikes.

My first suspicion would be that the clutch plates have stuck together from not being ridden for a while. Be sure the transmission is in gear, pull the clutch lever all the way against the hand grip and rock the bike back and forth. Two or three times usually does the trick for me.

You should be able to pull the rod completely out without causing any problems.  I suggest you remove the clutch cover on the kickstart side of the engine.  Take the clutch plates out to see if something is sticking.  Be careful not to lose the ball bearing in the center hole.

Thanks for the reply. 
When I tried to pull in the clutch it would not give. As is often said I feel I have done everything right. I'm working with the official Kawasaki manual for this bike. 

Is the cable moving freely ?

Yes, it has been in an oil drip for 3 months

You indicate you lubed the release lever. Which type of release (see link below) does your bike have? Did you take it apart as the older version can be tricky to get back together correctly. As to adjusting it, there are 3 adjustments one can make. The setting at the hand grip lever, the cable length, and the release on the sprocket cover.

www.partzilla.com/catalog/kawasaki/motor...ch-81-82-kz750-e2-e3

Diving into this again I realized that I forgot the cotter pin. Why the lever on the handlebar would not pull in doesn't make sense but who knows what it could have been stuck on. I'm still not happy with the adjusting nut on the clutch lever though. It seems much too forceful, and it is hard to get a good reading on it. The lever on the handle still feels a little strained also. Regardless I will move forward. Thinking of what has been said on this forum has given me reason to look back. I don't think this bike has run in at least two or three years. I drained the oil and changed filter which was very dirty. Maybe the plates are stuck together! I will put in new oil, re-install the cleaned carbs and see what happens. Maybe getting it started with clean oil will loosen up the clutch plates to where a better clutch adjustment can be made. Thanks to all for the help. I will post the results.

Make sure your oil is rated for a wet clutch.

Gd4now has been kind enough to provide the schematic differences of styles used! The 3-ball on ramp is superior to the screw type with multiple balls within a retainer. The 3-ball type has to be adjusted correctly or it'll "jump" the 3 balls over the ramp into another low spot resulting in no lever action. Often you'll hear a "Snap" sound which tells this has happened. The screw type can be taken apart, just bend over the retainer metal tabs and remove the circlip. But note orientation before removal, has to be indexed correctly or clutch end will be either too long or short. If everything is working fine in clutch actuator then it's most likely friction within the inner cabling strand, dirt/rust debris. Also routing of cable plays a huge part too! Slow easy bends of cable, nothing abrupt. I run into this all the time when persons want to alter handlebars, usually lower style.  

TexasKZ post=923932 userid=14419... Be sure the transmission is in gear, pull the clutch lever all the way against the hand grip and rock the bike back and forth. ...

Sometimes they're too stubborn for rocking in gear to break them loose.

Do this very carefully:
   With the rear wheel off the pavement via the centerstand, and the front wheel nosed into a wall as a positive stop, start the motor, pull the clutch lever in and drop into 1st.  The rear wheel will spin under power because the plates are stuck even though the lever is pulled.  Apply increasing rear brake while keeping the clutch lever pulled and, if needed, some throttle.  It's much gentler on the tranny than dropping into gear with the rear wheel on the ground.

   If the plates stick repeatedly it's time to clean the steel plates and, perhaps replace the fiber plates (1st. choice). Sanding the fiber plates gently (2nd. choice) can leave abrasive particles embedded in the fiber.

Good Ridin'
slmjim & Z1BEBE

When my 73 sits for the winter it sometimes has sticking plates. What I do WITH THE ENGINE OFF is open the oil fill cap which gives you a visual of the clutch plates. I apply the clutch lever and using a long screw driver you can reach in and gently pry several plates apart which is normally enough to free the others once its started and the clutch is engaged. Takes all of two minutes.