Cam cap dowels

On this 1975 Z1 the dowel pins on the cam caps seem to be installed at random. One has 2 dowels one has none. Are all the bolt holes oil passages or just one under each? Where do these go?

As Warren shows there are 2 dowels for each cap located diagonal to each other.  Which way is unimportant, as long as they are diagonal.  The function is keep the caps aligned correctly.  You should also do some digging here on KZR - Wookie has a clever install method using temporary longer bolts with nuts and washers on 2 corners to reduce wear on the aluminum threads during assembly. 

are they oil passages? Some holes seem to be smaller. I would very much like to learn about Wookies install method. Do you have a link?

None are oil ways. Oil is supplied to the cam shell bearing through the hole in the bottom cam shell.
the smallers dont have dowles fitted. Larger ones do.

Thanks for the correction Warren.  Maybe I've been lucky on assembly.   But then again I'm good at putting things back in the holes they came from...

danam wrote:

are they oil passages? Some holes seem to be smaller. I would very much like to learn about Wookies install method. Do you have a link?

Link below - I like his method as there is no rotational force being applied to those 50 year old threads

Specs/Info on RC424 Cams (Russ Collins) - KZRider Forum - KZRider, KZ, Z1 & Z Motorcycle Enthusiast's Forum

The change I made to the process is that I use 2 extra extra long fully threaded bolts at opposite corners of the cap with a nut and flat washer up near the bolt head.  After bottoming each bolt in the aluminum thread I then can tighten the cap down by turning the nut only, and there is no wear on the aluminum threads. Then install 2 correct bolts tight in the remaining two corner holes (the cap is already pulled down flush).
You'll need eight extra long full thread bolts with nuts and flat washers.  I use 70mm long fully threaded.  When all caps are snug with 2 long and 2 correct length you can swap in the rest of the correct bolts. Then torque all bolts to 60 INCH-pounds

Interesting strategy using studs, If I find my self installing the cams more I will consider that. I saw someone mention a Suzuki tech tip, using vice grips to push the cam down and relieve the pressure from the cam cap when tightening. Would this work on a Z1 (would there even be space to do it)? One thing I hate about cam installs is using the cam cap to push down on the cam. Currently the way the manual reccomends just seems awkward, I feel like I'm damaging something.    

The clamp method will work, not quite as controllable as studs for releasing the tension and may leave scratches on the head. Really just a question of preference

I use a can of compressed air to completely clean anything from the bolt holes before assembly.  For holes on the cases I chase them all with a tap and clean the bolts with a wire brush.  It takes some time but it makes reassembly much easier and avoids any thread damage to the holes.

Wookie, do you have any concerns over having two failure points instead of 1? For example, vibration working on the nut and the stud? Not a trick question. its not something that I can really say is good or bad because that can only come from lab testing or just trying it.