5200rpms at 70mph, too high!! kz1000m2

bound wrote:

Thanks! I was thinking of going 18 in front and 44 in rear which would drop my rpm by 200 at 70mph. I don't want anything to crazy so I'm keeping the front sprocket the same diameter. Please let me know if there is anything to be wary of concerning the sprockets. 

Sounds about right (the calculator will confirm) I am running (when it's finished) 18 - 46 on my 82 Ltd but that has 17inch zx9r/Bandit 600 wheels

Wookie58 wrote:

bound wrote:

Thanks! I was thinking of going 18 in front and 44 in rear which would drop my rpm by 200 at 70mph. I don't want anything to crazy so I'm keeping the front sprocket the same diameter. Please let me know if there is anything to be wary of concerning the sprockets. 

Sounds about right (the calculator will confirm) I am running (when it's finished) 18 - 46 on my 82 Ltd but that has 17inch zx9r/Bandit 600 wheels

bound wrote:

Yeah the CSR was the only one that was cable driven that year... which works out well for me. I was thinking I would be able to swap the speedometer from a late kz1000p since they are also cable driven and those speedometer show up to 120mph while still looking stock. The only thing of concern is that the police bikes had a 18 inch front wheel compared to my 19 inch. I did a little research and the difference in speed reading was only like 3% or 2% which is pretty negligible.  Is the CSR uncommon or something?

I don't know about the US but here in the UK they are very rare

I'm curious, where does that put you at for rpms and acceleration? My concern in lowering my rpms is making it too hard to take off in first.

bound wrote:

I'm curious, where does that put you at for rpms and acceleration? My concern in lowering my rpms is making it too hard to take off in first.

Your are only dropping from 2.6:1 down to 2.44:1 so I can't see it being an issue

My set-up

Your set-up with 18-44

I should be able to dig into my tachometer on Tuesday so I'll post my results and what I did to (hopefully) fix the problem. I'll probably stick a drill on my tach and spin it and compare the reading to my 440 tach at the same drill speed. After that my plan is to fiddle with the needle to see if I can get it to read differently and if so, I'll adjust it until it reads the same as my 440. My suspicion is that spring may have gone weak and maybe isn't resisting the electrical force of the magnet like it used to. I hope the problem isn't the magnet itself or any of the other things... While I'm in there I'll try to lube everything that could cause friction.

I'll report back on Tuesday!