Kawasaki 750 GPZ R1 clutch adjustment

Need help adjusting the clutch on my 1982 Kawasaki 750 GPZ. I read the book and followed the instructions but I can’t get the clutch to adjust enough to release. The rear wheel still spins. Everything is new so no issues with cable etc. reading the book it talks about adjusting the adjusting screw. It says  to screw in til it stops. But it’s reverse thread so are turning the flat head in or out. Does any one have an abbreviated way to get it properly adjusted.

Here is my answer but I will add to it afterward. With reverse thread as you turn it counter clock wise it is tightening it. Turning it clock wise is loosening it.

Most manuals I have read indicate something like the following, when adjusting the clutch. Turn it till tight and than back it off so much. I have always wondered what tight means. I would think to some it means it can not be turned any more, to others just till it gets hard to turn, and others yet somewhere in between.

I have found I tend to have to play with this adjustment to get the clutch working as it should.

Turn in the adjuster at the grip, so you just have a small bit of adjustment remaining.  Maybe one or two threads.

Loosen the lock nut on the adjuster on the cover, then play with the adjustment screw, while feeling the lever.  I can't remember if you need to turn RH or LH thread, just play with it until you get a good amount of freeplay at the hand grip.  Then snug down the adjuster lock nut.

It's normal for the rear wheel to turn when the clutch is pulled in, because of drag from oil and light friction.  It shouldn't be transmitting much if any torque, though.

 

Ok thank you I’ll try that method. 

Oldsckool wrote:

Need help adjusting the clutch on my 1982 Kawasaki 750 GPZ. I read the book and followed the instructions but I can’t get the clutch to adjust enough to release. The rear wheel still spins. Everything is new so no issues with cable etc. reading the book it talks about adjusting the adjusting screw. It says  to screw in til it stops. But it’s reverse thread so are turning the flat head in or out. Does any one have an abbreviated way to get it properly adjusted.

As Nessism says this is normal, is this the only reason you think the clutch isn't "clearing" ? - When the wheel is turning on the stand apply the rear brake, does the engine speed change ? if yes then there is an issue with the clutch, if no then it's all good

clutch adjustment. check the manual to see what it says for the 81 and 82 models. 

Over the years, mostly zero have agreed with me, but in my opinion and a lot of miles, don't adjust the clutch except for the cable free play at the lever. Adjust at the lever and/or the cable. Once the engine adjustments are done, which 95% of the time the manuals turn the adjustments into the stratosphere somewhere in space, it can be difficult to get things right. Don't fall for the "tighten until seats, back off 3/8 turn" or whatever crap the manuals say, just adjust the cable and you will never have a problem. Of course once adjustments are botched up at the engine, unless it can be returned where it was there may likely be a period of stress to get it back.

The '82 and later 750 throw out bearing assembly is different from earlier versions, I have one on my 650 with 750 engine conversion.