Crunchy engine sounds

Hello!
When my engine is idling in neutral it makes this kind of crunchy sound. When in gear or going down the road it runs smoothly and seems okay. I'm not sure what might be making the sound or how to fix it but it causes concern. Any advice on this would be greatly appreciated. 

Hi, when ticking over in neutral does it stop when you pull in the clutch ?

Most likely normal primary chain and clutch lash chatter.  

  Syncing the carbs might help . 

On your video it sounds like your idle/tickover is set way too low. Should be 1000-1200rpm. The lower the tickover the worse the effects and noise from worn primary chain lash, worn clutch damper rubbers, out of sync carbs.
What is your tickover set to? 

kimchella wrote:

Hi, when ticking over in neutral does it stop when you pull in the clutch ?

It doesn't that I have noticed.

Warren3200gt wrote:

On your video it sounds like your idle/tickover is set way too low. Should be 1000-1200rpm. The lower the tickover the worse the effects and noise from worn primary chain lash, worn clutch damper rubbers, out of sync carbs.
What is your tickover set to? 

I'm not sure. I am very new to maintaining a motorcycle and working on them. I know it runs rich and backfires when I downshift, and it also idles around 1000 rpm. I haven't been doing this long enough to look into how to adjust it yet. 

riturbo wrote:

  Syncing the carbs might help . 

I'll have to look into how to do this.

Just when You were concerned about a New paint scheme!! Sounds like an old single cylinder farm thrasher. Yes, like Warren PLEASE turn-up the idle. You'll wreck that engine if you leave it that way. Just like those Harley and Chevy fellas do, setting idle soo low it destroys the Crankshaft journals. But it, to them, sounds cool?? Might i mention valve lash checking, another whole story in itself though.    

That idle speed is way too low, you sure it's not a hardly?

I don't know which model you have and the video will not play for me, but there is a decent chance that there is a copy of the factory service manual for your bike in the Filebase here at KZR. The manual will describe the proper methods.

The only unusual tool you will need is the synchronizer. There are four basic types on the market, vacuum gauge, liquid filled, metal rod and digital.. It seems that every person who adjusts their own carbs is irrationally in favor of one style over the rest. I am currently using a Carbtune (metal rod style) and am well pleased with the results. As with any tool, it is best to stay away from the really cheap ones.

It's a 650 c3, so probably out of sync carbs, and clutch basket rubbers shrunk and rock hard.