TOPIC:

sf4t7 wrote:

I use a method similar to Wookie's except I use a set of longer bolts for a first step instead of studs and nuts, then exchange them for the shorter correct bolts one at a time.  As I remember, it's a trick I learned here on KZRider.  

There is always more ways "to skin a cat" I prefer studs as they stay fully bottomed out in the thread throughout the process and there is no tension on the threads while turning as there would be with a bolt. Comes down to personal preference as both methods will reduce the risk of damage 

Injected wrote:

 

If your going to run bigger cams that stock you may want to increase the length because you need to push down on the cam when bolting it in. In that case you would need to figure out how long of a stud you can run without fouling on the cam cover.

 

Clearance shouldn't be an issue as the studs are only used for assembly/disassembly and the stock bolts would be in place before the cam cover is reinstalled

I agree Wookie, studs would be better for the reason stated.  Next time I'll update the method.   

Wookie58 wrote:

Injected wrote:

 

If your going to run bigger cams that stock you may want to increase the length because you need to push down on the cam when bolting it in. In that case you would need to figure out how long of a stud you can run without fouling on the cam cover.


 

Clearance shouldn't be an issue as the studs are only used for assembly/disassembly and the stock bolts would be in place before the cam cover is reinstalled
 

I was suggesting to have the studs in there permanently and just use metal insert lock nuts to hold down the cam caps. The other alternative would be to put metal inserts into all the thread holes so you never have a buggered thread again.

Just looking for ways to avoid stripping threads because it has ALWAYS been a pain when working on Kawasaki heads (have 3 on my drag bike to fix!)

 

I would think leaving the studs in place would lessen the possibility of stripping threads. The more in and out and torquing the more likely to strip. Studs with Fuji style lock nuts sounds like the cats nads. 

Suzuki recommends using vice grips to seat the cams into the head on GS bikes, before installing the caps.  That way the cap threads are not responsible to compress the valve springs.  



 

I think the stud idea is an ingenious method for eliminating stress on the aluminum threads.  I would probably replace the studs with screws.  I wish I was aware of that method before.  I've been using ratcheting wood clamps with rubber pads to hold my cams in position while I remove the cam caps.  Maybe I'll try pulling the cams down with the clamps when I'm ready to reinstall.