This is a KZ1000. You cannot change the seals with the head in place. The valve head sits between the combustion chamber and the cylinder. How do you get the compression tool on the head of the valve without removing the head from the engine?
Steve is correct. You must remove the head to do the job correctly. And yes, you will change valve clearance when you remove the valve.
You guys are a bit too old school. You absolutely can change the seals without removing the head. (and since the valves are not removed, the clearance doesn't change).
The tool in Scirocco's post is a valve spring compressor that works without removing the cylinder head. Whether or not there is room to use it with the engine in the frame IDK. If the valves are returned to their original locations after removal, I don't believe the clearances will change. IMHO, Mike
krazee1 is right!!! The tool with the leveler arm is the right tool i used on different bikes to do a valve stem seal change compressing the valve springs @TDC.
The tool is original for a Volkswagen V8 engine heads and was modifiyed by me to use on other heads.
OK, the question is; has anybody actually do it on a KZ with a 4 cyl engine, rather than suggesting, or thinking is possible??
I have seen this done on a early '70s honda 650 fours with a SOHC engine, and narrower (don't remember if single tube) loop frame on top with a whole lot more room on top of the head.. I concluded, it might be possible on a KZ-4 on the outer cylinders, but don't think there is is enough room on the inner cylinders because the top frame tubes are too close. I did not try it, I simply considered it.
And am not talking about seen the VW tool in action,(would like to).... ...the guy on the Honda was using one of those tool you smack to get the keepers out. Don't remember if he was pushing a string inside the plug hole to keep the valves from dropping or air pressure.
..Of course, If the KZ had a perimeter frame, it would be easy, but with the double tubes loop frame, don't think there is enough room, but am willing to hear if the proponents would elaborate, or say 'I've done it on a KZ-4" with whatever tool....and I mean all cylinders.
..you push a string inside the plug hole and fill the cylinder, or connect a compressor to the plug hole to hold the valve with pressure.....
....remember, am saying is possible if you have enough room on top of the head. Never done it myself, but there are videos around....don't think is possible on the KZ on the inner cylinders for lack of room
What holds the valve when the keepers and springs are removed?
At work we use compressed air from a leak down tester with the piston at TDC on v8 dirt track and drag motors. (on high strung race motors they change the springs after a certain number of races) Except we use a lever type tool, not unlike the one scirroco posted.
This is really really ironic this is being talked about, as I have been thinking about making a small profile screw-in valve compressor that would fit under the frame. I have been contemplating changing over to slightly beefier springs on my 750 and I simply don’t want to take the head off just for that. Maybe I will get serious and try to invent something to do just this....
Well...I guess I was wrong, but....I wouldn't do it that way.
I think it's easier to pull the head. The most time consuming part of disassembly/reassembly is the cams. Also, I don't know if you can even do the exhaust side on the inner cylinders. They face outwards and are partially behind the down tubes. Not a lot of room to get that tool in there. With my thick fingers I can see issues trying to put the keepers back without dropping them a few times into the oil return track.
Also I would want to check guides and clean the head both inside and outside, and lap the valves before putting things back together.
I have a couple of Z1B's restored, an '80 KZ1000LTD restored, a 1981 KZ550 restored and a 2008 KLR 650 for off road fun. My wife has a 2019 Suzuki DR 650 for on and off road.
The plunger style tool is a bit easier to use (I'd say) for both removal and insertion of the keeps - there's no fiddling with keepers involved to nothing to attach.. People have cut down the 'handle' so that it'll work in tight spaces.