TOPIC:

Ok guys, I need some serious help with this. I did a quick search and while this topic has been covered, I'm not seeing any point blank pictures that make me 100% sure of how to do this. I already managed to bend all four exhaust valves and two intake valves by doing this wrong (never would have thought you could do that by just turning the engine over by hand!!!). I have an old clymer's manual that is for 900s only (date on it is '76 or '77!). The thought was that the cam timing would be that they time the same, but maybe not and to me the instructions/pictures are vague at best (besides the obvious 28th pin mark on the intake cam). SO! I have pictures of what I THINK to be the correct timing marks, but I could really use some verification and if I am wrong, someone that has nice, clear pictures of all the correct timing marks, well that would be VERY much appreciated.

I believe this to be the correct Timing Mark for TDC 1&4 on the crank, YES?


Once that timing mark is established, I believe this to be how to set the exhaust cam shaft as the next step (as viewed from the right hand side), lines visible parallel to the head mating surface, YES?


This is the #1 lobe's position for the exhaust's camshaft when it is set to the above position. Makes sense, piston is on TDC fire, valve is closed, as the engine rotates forward that lobe will swing around and open the valve for the return to TDC on the exhaust stroke, YES?


For the next step, this is what I believe to be the pin to count as #1 on your way back to 28 on the exhaust camshaft when using the horizontal lines as the timing marks, YES?



And finally, this is the easiest of it (besides maybe the TDC mark on the crank), this should point to the 28th pin you count back from on the exhaust camshaft (this is the right hand side of the intake camshaft). YES?


Verification of this being correct or wrong, followed with a good picture or two of the CORRECT way if wrong would be VERY much appreciated as would any tips on doing this little job. I have already read to make sure the bike is sitting straight up and not on it's kickstand while doing this and I know I need to make sure theres not slack/balled up section of the cam chain once I start to put it together. Thanks for any and all help guys!!

David

Take the exhaust camshaft back out. Get glasses if your my age or a magnifihing glass and look very close for the mark on the exsaust cam It is not the lines. Everything else is fine.

Have a look at this post by OMR, and look at the position of both camshafts "Lobes". You will find that when on TDC for 1/4 that the lobes are very level in the head, but pointing towards each other.
If it is not like this than possibly you're gears are not correct on the cams.
kzrider.com/forum/2-engine/363495-valve-timing-issue#363498

Yes those lines are not the marks to reference too. Look at Pattons picture and notice how the bolts are positioned relative the head surface. The mark you are looking for is on the cam right at one of the bolts, the lines you used are there for positioning the cams for valve clearance service. You are the first person in the world to use the wrong marks No I'm afraid I've done it and many, many times this has been done and bent valves happen every time.

look for a > mark on your sprocket line that up with surface of head,next pin directly above should be #1 pin to start counting

ok,i guess pattons picture shows it also!
i dont have a manual handy so im working from memory,and it was never what it used to be!

Thanks for the help guys! I'll take a closer look at the exhaust camshaft tomorrow. Patton's picture shows pretty much what I think I needed to see. I let you know how it goes tomorrow!

Otto will be here shortly!

RonKZ650 wrote: No I'm afraid I've done it and many, many times this has been done and bent valves happen every time.

I did it too, and I didn't bend my valves. I used the wrong mark on the intake cam at the 28th pin. OOPS! Turn it over very gently after you check the timing marks to be sure you have it right. A leak down test confirmed my valves are still straight. Good luck.

Thanks for the help guys! She fired and ran good while I let her run. I've got 2 valves out of adjustment because I don't have the right shims, but I couldn't stand it and put the closest ones I had in so I could start her. She ran great (except for the popping, I'm sure due to the lean condition due to no restriction on the backsides of my RS 34 flatslides). Plan now is to get the right shims, fix the carbs and run it for 500 miles decently. Re shim, change the oil, check compression and hopefully all is good. Anyone have some small shims (2.25 or smaller) they want to sell? so I can get a good base point and do the math. Also.... need some parts for some flat slides (Mikuni RS34s) looking for a bowl and 4 new float needles and seats. Any help would be appreciated, but the help given was golden, thanks!!!!

David