KZ650 Sleeper Build (KZ1000 engine transplant)

very precise and well executed job!...I also see from your measuring tools (degree dial, dead center dial gauge, duration dial gauge) that you are an experienced mechanic...I repeat: Top Job
 

MFP-Joe post=912768 userid=24810very precise and well executed job!...I also see from your measuring tools (degree dial, dead center dial gauge, duration dial gauge) that you are an experienced mechanic...I repeat: Top Job
 

Thanks.

It takes a bit to get or make the gear you need to do these little jobs.

I made the TDC stop dial gauge adapter 40 years ago in College shop class! The tappet stroke adapter for the dial indicator I made years after when working at a tool shop.

The only thing purchased there was the APE degree wheel, but you don't really need a purchased unit. You can get the same job done with a DIY wheel printed out on paper and glued to some sheet alloy.
 

I pulled the exhaust cam out today to change 2 tight shims (.003" and .004" clearance) and Helicoil one cam cap bolt. It happened to be the inner bolt closest to the middle of the head so the hand drill fouls on the coil mount tab.

I need to go out and get a drill longer than 4", measured it and 8" would be perfect, but I can only get a 12" bit at a local hardware store so that will have to do. I do have longer drill bits but not the correct size or they are for wood use only.

I guess I got lucky the last couple of times I have had to fix a stripped bolt on a head on the bike, as they were all on the outside where there was no issue getting them drilled.

I also need to change a couple of loose shims on the intake side but won't unbolt that cam till that exhaust side thread is fixed.

I got the stripped thread fixed in the head and swapped those shims out. I was looking at the air box and decided I could install it after noting some dimensions to make sure it lines up with the carb manifolds on the head. Got it sorted out after trimming a tiny bit off the crank case vent line.

 

I can't put the carbs on till the cam cover is on, but I still need to check the valve lash and reconfirm the cam timing to make sure all is good.
 

I started looking at the venting again since my 90 degree AN fitting arrived for the catch can.

 

I measured then carbs and found out the main vent tube out of the air box was not going to make it up and over the carb tops. The catch can is strapped to the frame back bone so a straight shot would be perfect but the only way to do that would be some custom 90 degree elbows at the air box end.

I looked around in my plumbing spares and found a plastic 90 degree AC drain fitting would work if cut down on the lathe. Only issue was the cutting tool could not get close enough so decided to cut it with a aluminum file and some 80 grit paper.

 

 

It cut pretty good by hand but you have to "sneak" up on the sizing of the OD.

 

Cut to length it works pretty good and will solve this small issue. I only had one elbow so I need to buy another but they are less than $2
 

I am out in the garage today furiously working on this project.

I have the head buttoned up with the carbs and exhaust head pipes installed but I ran into a snag with the crank case vent tube.

My idea of running the vent tube thru the air box is not going to work because there is less space than anticipated right at the carb bell crank. I can't run a 90 fitting out of the air box, and I will need to take that pollution fitting completely off and seal both ends. There is room to run a 90 off the top of the breather and go up on top of the chain tensioner to connect to the catch, can so all is not lost.

Will try to post some pics when I get a chance.

I was able to figure out a way to go from the breather cover to the catch can but I had to scrap the line running thru the air box.

This is how close the bell crank was to the air box fitting.

 

 

No way anything was going to come out of there straight or at a 90. I was able to cut the vent tube off at the cover then remove the cover from the shifter side, will reuse that bit of hose.

 

I removed the pollution fitting and sealed up the top and bottom holes on the air box with Gorilla tape on both sides.  



 

 

Vent line from catch can drops down behind the block, does a 90 (need fitting) then drops down with a 90 at the cover. I will need to angle it a bit to drain back on that horizontal length.

 

 

Its kind of funky way to do it, but its all 5/8" ID so only restricted by the elbow bends similar to those stock elbows in the vent cover.

The air box in its final location with the CV rubbers installed.

 

Once I get the throttle cables hooked up and the vent tubing in place then I can start fitting the oil cooler lines. 

I am hoping I can start it Thursday morning.

PS: I went back over my notes to make sure I Loctited the cam sprocket bolts (wrote that down) and discovered I got the cam timing backwards. I set the intake at 108LC and the exhaust at 110LC.

nearly there

Always a great boost when it fires up, and then you can really start to enjoy it after all of the hard pleasurable work that has gone into it 👍👍

Up early today as I need to modify 3 of those plastic elbow fittings. Its a bit tedious standing at the lathe with a file on the part.

I can't use that one in the pictures as I cut it short on the one side to fit on the air box, now it has hardly anything to clamp onto. I also want to see if I can heat one up and bend it to about 110 degrees so the bend coming off the cover angles up for drain back. 

Will see if I truly get as far as I need to today.

I started in today finishing off the carb install by wrestling with the throttle cables. The push cable was no issue but the pull cable gave me fits, I finally got it on and adjusted properly after much cursing! I installed the main gas line and the vent lines into the air box filter. I then made sure the ignition plate was statically timed before it got forgotten. I also installed a new longer O ring chain and the kick start lever.

I heated this plastic vent elbow to make it bend over 90 but it sprung back too much after cooling, could only get another 5 degrees out of it but that may be enough because I think there will be some give in the hose as well. Seemed to draw back 10 degrees on cooling even after clamping it.

 

That is about as far as I got on the fittings because I started in on fitting the mufflers.

I knew I needed to adjust the spacing, and it gave me a hard timing trying to get it lined up like I had it welded up!

 

 

 

 

So far I have it within 3/8" of each other on both sides, but depending on the rear brake lever touching the pipe it just may have to stay that way for now. Its close but not perfect, I have some washers I could try once I get the rear brake lever adjusted again.

Tomorrow I will finish the venting and get the oil cooler lines installed, then lastly the coils. I will probably start it later tomorrow or Friday morning depending on whats going on around here.
 

I got a late start today but just when I was getting going good I had to stop for some visitors, then a few pints and dinner.  

I did manage to figure some stuff out, and did get the oil cooler lines on after wrestling with a tight packaging issue. I also had to run out and get some bigger ear clamps than what I thought I needed, Home Depot to the rescue again.

I started by installing the oil cooler fittings and cutting the lines to finished length. Left them on and put the gas tank in place, at first it did not want to go. I saw that the wire harness needed to be up higher on the frame and eventually got it to sit down all the way.

 

I was not sure if the petcock was going to fit, it just clears but will need to be rotated and the handle hammered in a bit to clear the air box when I do that. I think I need to rotate it about 15 degrees so when its fully ON it does not hit the carb top.

 

The fit of the cam cover to the tank is tight but acceptable.

 

 

This is where the wire harness needs to be for the tank to sit down. I also needed to relocate the catch can deeper under the steering neck gussets as the lines would not pass thru with it where it was. For the line install I needed to remove it to make it easier to assemble the lines.

 

The lines on both sides run in between the rubber ducts at the air box. I also was able to cut the gas line to length so its good to go once I fix the petcock.

 

The lines ended up being a tight install but it worked out OK after getting the one end with the 45 fitting installed. It is right up against the breather cover and took quite a bit of fitting to get it right. I now have them finish installed and tight up against the frame. Zero room on a 650!

 

 

 

 

 

I still have some work to do on the crank case vent lines and a few other items I need to address. Its funny on how you work at something for a few years and the last few hours seem to be the hardest struggle!

I am not going to give any ETA's on the start up as I keep blowing the deadline, lets say its so close I can taste it