TOPIC:

A long while back I tested the kill switch, and it worked reliably carrying the 4 Amps or so the coils might draw.

But when I had the switch on the bike, it rotated well, but didn't seem to have any detent location.  And I'd hate to have vibration or the like shut off the ignition during a quick crossing of high speed traffic.  So I had to have a look.

Here's a series of out of order pictures, but the detent ball/spring were stuck rusted into place.  Three days of heat cycles and soaking in penetrating oil and Evapo Rust didn't work.  

So I wound up drilling through the top of the rotary switch and drifting the ball and spring out, then a patch with RTV.

I'll reassemble the switch next rainy day, which is every day the Fall !!

The throttle return cable has seen better days.

Kelly E wrote:

The throttle return cable has seen better days.

Yes, thanks Kelly, the carb end on that cable is similarly tired.  It's on my list of "refinements" should this beast ever roll.

Here's a general overall "state of the build" picture.

My garage is unheated, but attached, so most of the Winter above freezing.  I don't like bending the insulation on old and cold wires, so my goal is to get her to the wiring stage before December.  Then get at the electricals next Spring.



 

Sounds like a good plan. I'm sure it will roll. Mine has 34k miles on it and it still is a beast. The RS34 carbs and Delkevic exhaust didn't hurt either.

I see you hobble yours bikes too. I use a ratchet strap a couple of clicks tight so there's no way the center stand will fold up when I'm pulling on a wrench or something.

Kelly E wrote:

Sounds like a good plan. I'm sure it will roll. Mine has 34k miles on it and it still is a beast. The RS34 carbs and Delkevic exhaust didn't hurt either.

I see you hobble yours bikes too. I use a ratchet strap a couple of clicks tight so there's no way the center stand will fold up when I'm pulling on a wrench or something.



Yes hobble is the right word.  I don't want it walking off that center stand.  And that stand does not go very far over 90 degrees.  A tip over could kill me, wreck the bike, and dent the car.

The kill switch has a nice detent feel now.  I put a dab of dielectric grease on the detent spring/ball and three detent seats.  But not on the electrical contacts.

I'll look around to see if I can find a cable routing diagram for those throttle cables  and for the wire bundle coming out of the switch.  Red arrow.

Thanks................



 

I found some low resolution pictures in the KZ1000 service manual that show the RHS switch wiring and throttle cables routed above the RHS fork ear for the headlight.

Fuel tank cleaning is far from my favorite chore.  But I hate to feed dirty fuel to clean carbs even if there's a filter catching the big bits.

Got out the garden hose, dish detergent, and abrasive medium (small rounded rock from the Lake Huron Beach).  Maybe 2 cups of stones, 2 or 3 squirts of detergent, and maybe 5 liters of water.  Then shake the tank in all direction and in all position until fatigued.  Repeat until bubbles come out white rather than rust colored during the rinse, about 5 cycles in this case.

My friend was doing just this with his mint original paint Honda CBX tank, 6-cyl.  Slippery soapy hands, and he threw it on the driveway.  $1200 to repaint.  So I go to the backyard and stand in plush soft grass.

Invert the tank to rattle out all the stones, which takes some time to get the last few out.

I put in about 50 ml of emulsifiable of mineral base cutting oil, which has great rust preventatives, diluted with about 2 liters of water, slosh it around, then slosh it out.

The tank is presently sitting on the basement floor with a 60 Watt light bulb under it to dry the last beads of emulsifiable oil.

I got the tank already in primer which seems reasonably well applied.  I'll try my hand at painting with spray cans, but this has never worked well for me.  Tips appreciated.  Thanks. 

When using spray cans, try and resist the "I'll just make one more pass on this coat".     Unless you enjoy sanding between every coat !      

sf4t7 wrote:

When using spray cans, try and resist the "I'll just make one more pass on this coat".     Unless you enjoy sanding between every coat !      

Thanks Scotty, yes that's my primary fault, get 'er all done in one coat.  And believing that faults in preparation will be hidden by the subsequent painting.

Here a picture of the plastic tail section.  The wet sanding preparation leaves a very matt finish when the tail is dry, but with the water on it, like in the picture, it's a wonderful gloss.

Does that mean when the paint is applied that the matt will disappear and the gloss appear?

Thanks.

 

Not an expert on paint, but you'll probably need some polishing steps after applying the paint to get the best gloss.  I'm sure there are guys here who can give you (and me) some better direction.

You will always get a Matt finish after sanding (even colour sanding the finished top coat) If you then buff it with something like G3 rubbing compound, then "T" and finally a good polish it will be like glass 
PS: Don't colour sand and and buff for a few weeks after painting to ensure it is fully hardened