TOPIC:

Swingarm installation went well with a very "cool" fit in the frame at the pivot.

I used a heavy assembly oil, but then pumped her full of EP grease until it came out the ends.  Lotta space in there as it took a lot of pumping.

The check valve in the grease nipple allowed some back flow, but there's nothing unusual about that.

On with the triple clamps today.

Worked a bunch of EP NLGI 2 grease into the tapered rollers and raceways, and a smear of grease on anything inside the headtube that might rust.

It all came together sweetly.

Tapered rollers are very sensitive to pre-load, and since these are aftermarket, I couldn't find a specification.  So I just tightened them to the point of incipient drag.



 

Convention for the swingarm is to have the bolt on the left side.  Is that a 900 engine?  The valve cover looks like it came from a 900.

Thanks HardRock.

I would like to knit the old KZ1000 back together appropriately....... and safely!

The valve cover gasket I purchased from Z1E is for the early KZ1000, and their ad says "900 and 1000 1977-1978", so maybe they used the same cover.  Good eye!

The bike came to me with the S/A pivot bolt head on the left, but the parts diagram showed it on the right, which I followed.  Not the first time that an early parts diagram might be incorrect.

The bolt is well lubed should I undertake to reverse it.

Thanks again.



 

It would appear that you have been successful in your attempt to rescue this machine.  Nice work is all I can say!

Thanks gd4now.

It's a big project that is now coming together, but she's a long way from making heat.

Forks installed nicely this morning with just the right fit into the triple clamps.

Now how do I get her on the wheels?  Enlist the strong neighbours again and have a box of ice cream cones on hand!

wdhewson wrote:

Thanks gd4now.

It's a big project that is now coming together, but she's a long way from making heat.

Forks installed nicely this morning with just the right fit into the triple clamps.

Now how do I get her on the wheels?  Enlist the strong neighbours again and have a box of ice cream cones on hand!

 Bribery is probably the cheapest and quickest way. Just make sure to get the right flavor and a big enough box.

 

Apologies!  The parts diagram is correct.  What I meant to say was the NUT should be on the left.  I don't know why I wrote BOLT.  The valve covers are similar but the ends on a 900 are smooth.  On KZ1000 they have a ring.  It's one way to quickly tell a 900 from a 1000.

 

Do you have a factory service manual? If so please do not drive that bike till you properly set the triple trees. There is a sequence that you completely circumvented. If you need pages copied please ask and I’d be more then happy to post. 

EDIT
Here is the correct manual. www.kzrider.com/modules/ServiceManuals/K...Service%20Manual.pdf
Triple and fork assembly starts on page 124

Mikaw wrote:

Do you have a factory service manual? If so please do not drive that bike till you properly set the triple trees. There is a sequence that you completely circumvented. If you need pages copied please ask and I’d be more then happy to post. 

EDIT
Here is the correct manual. www.kzrider.com/modules/ServiceManuals/K...Service%20Manual.pdf
Triple and fork assembly starts on page 124

Thanks Mikaw,

It's always good to make sure that the "big hinge" at the front of the motorcycle is in good working order, otherwise your path may deviate from the intended !!

This old girl was fitted with aftermarket tapered rollers, and the preload on these bearings might be quite different than the factory free balls in the factory manual you've kindly provided.  With tapered rollers, I take up the play, then nudge it a bit tighter, but not to the point that the bearing feels granular when rotated.

The only difference that I can find between what I did and the FM procedure is the 2 mm clearance recommended between the top surfaces in the inner tube (stanchion) and the top plate.  My target was flush for these two surfaces.  Frankly, I'd opt for full use of the top clamp by having it flush rather than partially inserted.

This 2 mm would be easy to achieve if there's a convincing reason to do so.

Thanks guys............

Front wheel is next to try and get a rolling chassis so I can move this "lump" around more easily.


 

The engine/chassis assembly is sitting on some thick corrugated cardboard and rugs, so I had a helper press down on the rear frame loop and seesaw the front forks upwards.  The forks came up high enough to slip in the front wheel/axle assembly, taking care to position the speedo drive nub against the little nub on the left fork slider.  Then on with the axle caps.

I'll need some more help to hoist the rear up and let the center stand swing down, which should allow the rear wheel to be fitted, and twin shocks.

Then I'll have a rolling chassis and be able to positioned things into more favorable work locations.

Thanks guys.............


 

It’s more than the stem bearing preload. It’s the correct sequence of item tightening and torquing. There is a reason it’s called out. Also I see a gap to the front of your axle clamps which is incorrect. When properly sequenced and tightened the gap will be toward the rear. Also the axle nut should sit firm against the fork lower and cap. I see distance between them. Please heed my observations.