TOPIC:

When I was in the middle of renovating my daughters newly bought apartment, painting, putting up wallpapers, laying a new hardwood floor and upgrading the electric wiring an interesting ad showed up on our equivalent to Craigslist.A 1984 Gpz1100 mostly original, but only running on starter fluid and the guy was asking a thousand bucks, and this time it was close, in the suburbs of Stockholm.We let the guy roast for a few days and then Bobby, a Honda restro modding buddy of mine went to look at the bike.Bobby told the guy that we will end his misery and cater for the poor bike but a thousand US was to much for a non runner.So with a solid, mostly original bike with a box of original parts was ours for a staggering 800 USD. Unfortunately Bobby decided that this bike was to sweet, so he wanted to be a part of it so I had to agree to shared custody.So for the first time we are considering a original restore (except for the exhaust), but only the future will decide, first we need to get the DFI sorted and then bike running.

 


Brgds Anders

Subscribed as i will be getting my teeth into one or two of these in the months to come and any and all tips will be taken on board.

I've just spent the last few years restoring one of these. Exact same model in galaxy silver.

Good luck with the restore. Great bike when they're running right!

Great find Anders....!

Yesterday I got my first time to look at the old girl and took her to our workshop.Lets agree on that she not a diamond in the ruff, but more like a piece of rock in the ruff, dented, scratched, ruff, full of grime and the fuel smells of varnish.But she is all there, no major parts missing, the airbox came in a shopping bag, all fins are there, the alternator and ignition covers has marks from encounters with the ground, but more likely parking damage than anything else. For the price we paid, she was definitively worth it. Now she will have to sit until the end of august beginning of September until we have time to sink our teeth in to her.

Brgds Anders

So it was time to get started.

I emptied the tank from the old stale fuel and much to my delight I found that the tank was spanking clean inside, no varnish or grit just clean metal.
Rinsed the tank out with ethanol and blow dried it in order to prepare it for paint later. Bobby hates it when I give him fuel smelling tanks to paint.

Next up the DFI.
With a newly recharged battery sporting a healthy 12.3V I was good to go. The bike fires on Starter spray (Ether) so it turns over and the ignition is alive.

Fuel pump test.
The PO had replaced the original fuel pump with some no name replacement pump, but the original pump was in the box of parts we got with the bike. Took the fuel filter and pump of the bike, the filter and some of the fuel hoses were in pretty bad shape and went in the bin, the replacement pump looks brand new and I don’t think they ever got the bike running with that pump.
Fished the original pump out of the parts box and cleaned it up. Hooked up both pumps and they both runs and pumps fuel, didn’t test to what pressure but both pulls 0.4 A while running which sound ok. 


Fuel pump power supply test. Looked up 10-26 in the FSM which says positive lead to the pump shall:
give Battery voltage for 5 sec when the ignition is turned on, Check.
Positive lead to the pump shall give Battery voltage while starter button is pressed, Check.
Positive lead to the pump shall give Battery voltage while pin #18 or pin #8 on the control unit is grounded in order to mimic the engine running, Check.


With good spirits I hooked up the original fuel pump and turned on the ignition. Nothing!


The pump stays silent regardless, it doesn’t run for the 5sec or when starter button is pushed.

I suspected dirty connectors so I pulled all connectors apart and cleaned all connector blades as they felt oily, like they had been soaked  in WD40 or CRC 556. Also removed the fuel pump relay and cleaned the connector there as well.


Still not a sound from the fuel pump.

Started to suspect that even though the voltage on the connectors, maybe the ground was bad, so I earthed the pump strait to the negative terminal on the battery.
Still not a sound from the pump.

So we are losing the juice somewhere on the way to the pump as it doesn’t turn it over.

Next time I will take a step back and run through all the tests to try to figure out what is wrong.

Ideas and experiences are welcome.
(^o^)

 //Anders      

I would check and make sure that the fuel pump 2 pin connector, is not connected to the air temperature sensor connector by mistake.
The fuel pump and air temperature sensor connectors will physically and improperly connect to each other, and this will cause a no-start
condition (the fuel pump will not activate).  If you look closely at the connectors, one set is made to lock together.  The other set isn't. 

If you need a fuel pump relay, this is the correct replacement:

 
FUEL PUMP RELAY
11 Prong Dual Relay
Made By : Bosch
Made In : GermanyPart #: 0332514120 / 0332514102 / 0332514103 / 0332514106    VOLKSWAGEN 1974 412 1.8L
75-78 Type1 Bug
1974 Campmobile
75-79 Super Beetle
1974 Transporter 1.8L
75-78 Transporter
1979 Transporter Excluding California
80-81 Vanagon Excluding Caliifornia
82-83 Vanagon 2.0L Excluding California
 

Tks Highway.
I can see that they can be exchanged but in my case they are not, I checked the colours of the cables and the one that connects to the pump is black/yellow and orange/black and it gives the right voltages at the right moments, just not enough amperage.

/A

That fuel pump relay looks like the contacts are oxidized.  I would take care of that (lightly scrape with
a razorblade or use fine sandpaper, etc.), or just replace it.

I would clean the DFI computer and connectors, and try it again..  

It's possible that the DFI computer is bad.  Is it still mounted in the three rubber mounts?
Vibration will eventually catch-up with electronic devices.  Those mounts are about $15
each, and I recently bought them for my '82 GPZ1100.  A lot of money but they were
missing, and they are necessary items.  

Tks Highway.I will continue to clean the connectors and will also trace the positive leads back to the battery and try to figure out why the current drops when there is a load.
Unfortunately our bike workshop is some 55km from where I live so I am only able to work on my bikes on weekends.

The damping rubbers are added to our parts shopping list. We will replace them anyhow as they are 40 years old . . . 

//A  

Battery Voltage:  12.3V = 70% charged.

12.6+V is fully charged.  I would put the battery on a charger.

Can you open the fuel pump relay cover without damaging it?

If you are able to open it, you may see corrosion,  etc. inside, and know if it needs to be replaced.

I bought a fuel pump relay on ebay but the seller is sold out right now.

Highway it took me awhile until I found that the info about the DFI was shattered over to supplement chapters in the FSM and is now armed with chapter 9 (Gpz1100B1-2) that covers how to test the individual components of the DFI, including the relay.

Thanks to your input I have been able to source a Bosch 0332514120 relay in Latvia and it is on its way over the Baltic sea right now but will not make it here till Sunday.

When going to the workshop on Sunday I will run all the tests on the relay (and all other components) now that I have found chapter 9. Will try to open the relay, as I wrote earlier all electronic components where smeared in either oil from the breather hose or WD40 and its not unlikely that the oil has made it into the contacts within the relay. Tks Anders