TOPIC:

wrote:

I would suggest to remove the bare copper wire from coil to coil and replace it with an insulated piece. One slip and you possibly could short out your coils. Also you’d be safer with a fuse inline from the power source (battery) to the coils. As mentioned mount the coils laminated bar to something aluminum, two benefits, your coils can touch each other (potential short) and your adding a heat sink. Win, win.

EDIT: You will also need to power the Dyna S pick up modules. I think it’s white with a red sleeve. It can be the same source as the coil positive. 

Will do better job for next startup with carbs. Dyna S pick up modules powered as well, thin red wire going down from where pickup leads connecting to coils
 

The wiring looks correct to me electrically, but I don't know which coil is 1/4 and which is 2/3 in the photo, and I don't see your hot wire pickup.  Dyna provide a clip to attach to a positive wire but I've had issues with it so I normally use a bullet connector and go to the double brown wire spare near the headlight.

wrote:

The wiring looks correct to me electrically, but I don't know which coil is 1/4 and which is 2/3 in the photo, and I don't see your hot wire pickup.  Dyna provide a clip to attach to a positive wire but I've had issues with it so I normally use a bullet connector and go to the double brown wire spare near the headlight.

Dyna positive connected, it's a read wire, shown as well

Carbs time and questions.. Got carbs on a motor (don't have better mount). Started from cylinders 3/4 and going left. I have only 2 clear tubes, so dealt with 2 carbs at a time. #2 was good, #3 slightly high, small adjustment. #4 at body level, more adjustment. So, 2,3,4 adjusted no problem.

Problem 1.
#1 doesn't adjust. I bent prong a lot comparing to others but level is still too high, see picture. Bent little, more, and more. Still above carb body.

Problem 2. (or not a problem?) 
#2 choke gets wet (on picture). Not sure why it's doing this

 

Ref problem 1 - Does the float "float" or is it perforated and holding a little fuel wheighting it down ? Are the needle valves and seats in good condition ?

The float may be sticking on the side of the bowl.  

The seal on #2 choke plunger may not be working, but that doesn't explain why fuel is rising higher than the float bowl.

I had spare set of carbs (partial). I just took float out of one along with seat/needle and installed - that fixed issue.

It happened today!!! It runs. On all cylinders all is well. 


You may see lights flickering in garage. Guess what? I was in headphones, wife came to garage and tried to get some attention claiming it was completely horrible
First quick start oil started to come out of tach hole, so I had to install it quickly.
By end of this video I had about quart of oil on a bench. Pushed clutch actuator rod and I guess it was just pouring there. I didn't think there would be much pressure there..

Good thing is - it runs good, on all 4 cylinders, I didn't run for long but finally I was able to take it off choke and it was responding to throttle. 
So, now - I need to get going with chassis.

 

Its Alive!!!

Slow and tedious work of taking it apart started. I remove units, disassemble and write down where I need new, replated or chromed pieces.
Wiring butchered under covers, but definitely salvageable everywhere else.
I think I am leaning towards just refreshing and keeping original as much as possible. Let's see how much they will want for chrome and what I can buy new.

For frame, I am going to take big piece to local sand blaster, all other pieces I can clean at home. Going to paint everything myself. This way I won't have to deal with powdercoater.

 

I disassembled starting from the back moving to the front. While on a back all was clear on what to do - I started to slightly panic once getting close to front.
Instruments, cables, lights, switches - all in really poor shape. Fork tubes rust pitted. Front hub speed cable rusted in (and broke off). 

So far on a fence for following items:
1. All 4 turn signals not reusable. I may reuse 2-3 housings, but lenses, stalks need to be replaced. I don't even like their looks. Any decent stylish replacement out there?
2. Fenders. Rear fender got a crack. Chrome is not really good. Paint them? Or rechrome?
3. Instruments. I contacted zresto.com, it will be like $400. Considering all other expenses and work - really think about something like motogadget, get rid of 2 cables
4. Bars/mirrors, rust on chrome. need replacements

Or maybe find whole front end from newer bike with better suspension?

 

It's not always easy to restore items but I take great pleasure out of seeing how well I can improve things.  Those mirrors look to be restorable with a little cleaning.  Same for the signals.  I have a set of original mirrors somewhere.  I also have at least a couple of original signals.