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Little more assembly tonight. Each bolt had to be thread-chased because after plating they get some more "meat" on threads.
Oiled for proper torque. Bottom assembled and engine flipped upside! Almost done (bottom end)

 

I don't understand your statement "oiled for proper torque."  The Kawasaki Service Manual says the torque values are for "dry solvent-cleaned threads"; that would be different than oiled threads wouldn't it?  Ed

wrote:

I don't understand your statement "oiled for proper torque."  The Kawasaki Service Manual says the torque values are for "dry solvent-cleaned threads"; that would be different than oiled threads wouldn't it?  Ed

I guess you are right. I only did it for oil pan bolts. All others were dry torqued but for some reason I decided to do it with those. No big deal. Even if I over torqued a little not going to hurt in this spot. For future will keep it in mind. I didn’t read this in FSM. Thank you!

Some more progress. Engine is pretty much assembled except for head, but head needs some work.

Rebuilt clutch activator using NOS parts. Originals had some where which would cause stickyness.



 

Cylinders on. Used @gazzz trick with plastic strips and zip ties to hold rings. Just used 14ga romex wire (with insulation) to make u-shaped piston holders. Quick and worked like a charm.

Now to the head. This is head I got from eBay, everything checks out, but I am going to replace valve guides and valves. Since I have them and those that came with a head had some wear.

Positioned head on "angled" fixture and made sure all guides perpendicular. Now it will be really easy to press in/out. Especially after getting head hot in a oven.

 

Made plugs for emissions bypass holes. Holes measured ~9mm. So I just went straight with M10 1.25 tap. Found two bolts, 5 minutes with angle grinder and 5 minutes on a lathe and my plugs ready. 

Any suggestion on what to use to seal it? Same tree bond as for engine? Put on threads? 

 

Great job on your project!  And thanks for all the great photos.

Just a reminder, in case you didn't realize, but the valve seats will need to be cut after installing new valve guides..  

Good luck

wrote:

Just a reminder, in case you didn't realize, but the valve seats will need to be cut after installing new valve guides..  


 

Thanks! And yes, absolutely. I got all the neway cutters waiting. Right now (uninstalled) guides feel just right with new valves. I didn't measure but they fit, so.. Can't imagine them being "tight". It's APE performance bronze guides. Don't plan on rimming those unless there going to be stickyness.

I really hope it will work out without shortening valves. 

I needed my new valves ground shorter.  Found a car engine builder with a valve grinder machine and he charged $10 each (including removal and reinstallation).

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I needed my new valves ground shorter.  Found a car engine builder with a valve grinder machine and he charged $10 each (including removal and reinstallation).

I think if it's going to be needed I will just specify exact measurement by how much to shorten and bring actual valves to the shop

Cleaned head via soda blasting. Then pressure washed with water. Then air blow every hole. Then pressure washed again. Will do more cleaning later when done with valves.

Conveniently enough I had this angled mount, not sure what it called. Guy who sold me lathe/mill gave it as a part of a deal 5 years ago? Never knew why I need it and now it's perfect! Dialed it to make valve holes vertical when head lays on it.

Heated head to about 350F in oven. 

Pressed out old valve guides. Which is easy, you just remove them.

Now installing new ones? Hmm. I really scared of over-pressing. So, what I did - I machined sleeve for my pressing shaft. This way this sleeve will stop on a head body making it precise and positive stop when new stems will be pressed in.

On a side note - those valve guides needed. Old ones even with new valves I can feel some play even by hand, so it's good idea. OTOH - camshaft clearances good. So, if I don't f-up something, it will be a good head.


P.S. Hmmm reading about dry ice.. Word is, if I heat up head and get guides cold with dry ice - they should simply drop into their hole. True? If so, I'd rather get some dry ice than trying to press them in.

 

The device you are referring to is a sine plate.  Very handy!