TOPIC:

Are you using new valves or used?  If used, find a shop with a centerless grinder and get the valves faced.  The same machine can skim the stems too.  It's SOOOO nice starting with a fresh and perfect surface on the valves.  My local shop did the set for a very fair price since it only took about 15 mins to do the full set.

wrote:

Are you using new valves or used?  If used, find a shop with a centerless grinder and get the valves faced.  The same machine can skim the stems too.  It's SOOOO nice starting with a fresh and perfect surface on the valves.  My local shop did the set for a very fair price since it only took about 15 mins to do the full set.

New valves. Now I am confused. Head I am actually doing is in much better shape (less pitting on valve seats). Exhaust valves actually do fit into guides so I proceeded withs second angle to get contact spot width correct.
If I look at manual drawing - their "good" spot is about 1.5mm. Specs is 0.5-1mm which to me looks very small. Should it really be less than 1mm? I got contact right in a middle of valve surface and it's about 1.3mm wide.

Intake valves don't go into guides. They either bigger or guides under more tension. Will check once I get hones what actual sizes are. But for now - I am done with exhaust side unless you tell me I need to go after smaller contact patch


 

I wouldn't recommend measuring the image on the page and thinking it is accurate.  Go by the measurement numbers listed.  Just my $0.02...

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I wouldn't recommend measuring the image on the page and thinking it is accurate.  Go by the measurement numbers listed.  Just my $0.02...

I agree. But 0.5-1mm also look very narrow. Comparing to everything. images or actual valve edge surface(which is slightly over 3mm). No problem doing it, just need to hear someone experienced. And when doing 0.5-1mm - should I stay closer to 0.5 or 1.

 

1mm on the inlet and a wider 1.5mm on the exhaust to help shed the heat as they run hotter.

Been awhile! Changed "subject" and got R75/6 running which I bought. It was parked for 30 years but now running and I rode it to office today.

Back to KZ. Finished head and preliminary put it on engine (with no gasket) to get adjusted. Looks like I have plenty of shims to get it adjusted without tipping valves. Check valves for leakage - all great. Currently I assembled it with smallest shims I picked and all gaps is excessive, so it's cool. And I don't even have smallest shims listed in catalogs. 2.4 is smallest I used.

Manual calls for 0.08-0.18 gap in valves. Should I go for more "relaxed" fit like 0.12-0.18 since it's new valves/ground seats? Technically they should wear in a little reducing gap, correct?
 

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 Technically they should wear in a little reducing gap, correct?

 

Correct

Painted head, almost there. Hope to start engine on a floor this week.. Is this square o-ring somewhere on engine? I found it in a box but can't remember if it should be there or it's some random part?

 

Your motor build looks amazing.  Just sayin'...

Been a long time. Partially because I was busy with 2 BMW airheads I got and thought it would be quick projects. Partially because I am still on a fence on how to proceed with KZ.

What do I have:
1. Engine is all assembled sitting on a bench.
2. Everything else assembled sitting in garage. Rust, painted tank/plastics, non-ideal chtome with rust, etc.

I just don't know which way to go with a bike.

Restoration?
Chrome is expensive, and not 100% to my liking
Paint schema is OK, but nothing cool or special (red)
Don't have original exhaust and it will be expensive
Gauges need to be reconditioned.
I have forks / brakes from "C" with dual disk caliper I want to put on a bike
AND  - BOTTOM LINE - it will not be ORIGINAL. I've seen some KZ650s of the same year coming up for sale with less miles, all original in great shape around 4k. Knowing they are out there - restoring to original condition doesn't make much sense honestly.

Make my own?
Paint chrome (fenders, wheels)
Paint frame and other parts in color I want (probably white or Kawasaki green/lime)
Paint plastic/tail/tank and let my artistic kids do whatever they want with it (drawings)
Re-do seat however I want
Install modern electrics/gauges
Make nice rider out of it. Not cafe, just nice stanard-ish bike.

I know it's my bike and I can do what I want, but I need to start somewhere. Right now my fear is that when I get it apart and paint frame to start assembly - I may get into situation where I have to weld or cut pieces of frame, or do other fabrications.

Any advice or suggestions on how to proceed? What would you replace/make better and what would you keep? Engine/airbox will be stock. Only electronic ignition and  exhaust(Delkevic) will be non-stock

I have no fear of wrenching, restoring and doing whatever needs to be done to get stuff working, but making something my own is a first time experience.

IMO it's better to start and deal with issues as they arise than try to plan everything out - not so difficult to repaint modified frame areas, as long as you don't powdercoat it. 

I suggest making the bike how you want it, and then you don't need to worry so much about riding it. 

Yesterday finished with valve adjustments. One valve was way out of spec (0.3mm), another was slightly tight around 0.08. And this is after 2nd round of adjustments. Installed different shims. Had to cheat a little. Needed 2.4 shim, but had 2.45 only. So I put it on sharpening stone and took 0.05 off. Put that side facing cup, should be OK.

Today installed Dyna S ignition, was not sure about adjusting, instruction say to use mark which is 1/2 inch on right from T mark, but I couldn't get it there with range of adjustment on a plate. So I just left it in a middle, will do with timing light later. 

Filled with oil, took plugs off, connected test light to oil pressure sensor and ran started in shorter 4-5 second sessions until light went out. Now it builds pressure with 1-2 cranks. Great!

Next I rigged ignition setup with a battery. Sprayed 1 squirt of start fluid into each intake and it started right away!!!
All happening on a bench, it's LOUD. I was going to start it on carbs next time, but knowing it will run longer and loud I am freaking out now

Question is.. After running for a second or two, dyna coils got pretty hot. One more than others. I am not sure if I did something wrong? I connected 1 terminal to + on battery and another terminal to 1-4 and 2-3 leads from ignition. Why would they get hot? 

EDIT: Funny searching google brought me back to KZRider: kzrider.com/forum/4-electrical/309828-ne...na-coils-getting-hot
One coil got hotter than another. Oh well, looks like normal? Will need to keep it in mind when working on wiring.