TOPIC:

Question on jetting. I have #90 mains. I will use stock airbox and Kerker 4-1 exhaust. Should I go different jet size?

 

Thanks on the update on the plunger fix project.  I feel dumb for asking about the material since the info was right there.  Guess I should actually read the post next time instead of just looking at the photos!

I'm no jetting guru but I'd bump the main one size and go from there.

Carbs ready, bench synced. Still need to adjust/check float levels.

All engine parts should be here in 2 days. Local shop didn't deliver. Hate when people do business like this. It's been 3 weeks. They told me will check first week. Next week they told me guys was sick and they will check it. Last week I called on Tuesday - they told me they will check "today". Today  I just went there to pick it up - they guys told me "Guess you picking it up? Good!". Why waste time?? Now my plan is to ship it to Chris Schumann. But it will take weeks as well.

Next dilemma if I should put it in frame as is and see how it runs, etc. Or should I go and do frame restoration right away..

 

While waiting on parts I've been asking around to get head fixed. APE turned me down with those messed up intake thread holes. They told me it's cheaper to buy another head than to setup equipment. Chris Schumann seem to be able to fix it, but price to fix plus price to plug emission holes (and fact those holes still next to exhaust ports) made me think twice.

Bought another 78 head from ebay. Will see what it is but if threads good and no emission holes - I will be ahead already. And since everyone is about 2 month wait time I may just go ahead and buy set of cutters and DIY. So..

wrote:

Bought another 78 head from ebay. Will see what it is but if threads good and no emission holes - I will be ahead already. And since everyone is about 2 month wait time I may just go ahead and buy set of cutters and DIY. So..

Got used head from ebay. Guy sent me cylinder block (good blank for boring if needed) but head has emission ports. I guess there was switchover some time in 78? Other than that - looks to be in good shape otherwise! I may just run it as is after checking. Al threads/parts seem to be there and visually very little wear. Just needs good cleaning. I have a good feeling it's going to be a good runner.

Making some progress with camchain parts. Machined alum inserts for gears, got 2 parts from APE, pretty much all is there.

All parts for camchain there. Top idler - machined axle and then pressed in and welded at the end. 
Next thing going to be head cleaning and checking. 6 more gears going for sale on ebay 

 

Head I got from ebay looks promising. No corrosion. Deposits under valves but it's just a valve job. All threads look to be good.
Camshafts seem to be well within factory specs.. 

 

Even though head is "good" in general with camshafts, threads, etc... Intake valves have very noticeable groove. Also, "side rock" test reveals a lot of wear. Since I bought guides and valves anyways - it's got to be done.

All engine parts came in, 99% ready to assemble, but found issue with gap in gearbox so waiting on some washers. New starter gear is different from original (see pic)
In short - all rubber parts replaced
Starter clutch and gear - replaced
All hardware replaced or plated
Some bearings replaced

 

Good news. Looks like 2 Neway cutters will do whole job on 650. Maybe for 1000 or 750 have different/bigger valves but in my case 30/45 is taken care of by one cutter. And 60% I was able to make fit by moving cutting blades out (see pics). Didn't do job yet, but whole thing cost about $220, much better deal vs giving it to shop. The only job that I may need shop to do is to shorten valves if it's going to be necessary

 

Nice to hear you can cover your valve job with less cost. Be careful, this Tungsten Carbid blades bite like hell.
Do only max three turns with less pressure.
First do the 45° angle job and then only if needed the 30° and 60° angle to set the valve to seat touch surface width and position.
Less is more in this case.....
I bite the bullet 25 years ago with my set of NEWAY cutters to cover the BMW, Volkswagen and Japanese classic engines, it´s worth the money i had paid for in the mid 90th...

 

Life is busy. Finally completed my "other" project (LX470 suspension overhaul) and back to this. Engine glued together. Next is to finish all other stuff and work on head.

Anything I should leave off for easier re-install into the frame?

 

I am only Dreaming that my work looks so amazing!! Is the finish paint or what? Thanks for the pics!! Chris