TOPIC:

Its been a bit but ive made some progress.

I finished the coil pack mounts which included a few more revisions and then tapping holes in them to make mounting to the frame a bit easier. I was in a rush doing the welds. dont judge.


I also changed direction on the engine temp sensor. Instead of going off of oil temp I decided to use cylinder head temp. Crazy idea i know. Anyways, i bought some NTCDS3KG203HC4NB thermistors and potted them in little aluminum blocks. I mounted them in that odd little square feature between the intake runners on the head.




I made these slightly ugly vacuum accumulators and map sensor mount. Oh, also, i changed my map sensor. The GM 3 bars have a terrible response rate, so i got a bosch 0281002487



Heres an intake manifold brace that still needs to be welded in.


I made a box for the fuel pressure controller.... This is a new one because i fried the last one shutting off the bike with a incorrectly wired R/R. Voltage spike killed her real good.


And now for the good part... I got some test rides in today on the bike. EFI and the new suspension worked veeeeeery nice. I had autotune running on a laptop in my backpack, but itll need some manual correction based on the datalogs.

There are still a hundred things to do though.... none of the body is wired, fuses, relays, kickstand spring needs to move so the foot pegs dont hit, secondary fuel tank, that whole turbo thing. Back to work i guess haha.

Still making progress... slowly... was gone for a few weeks for work....

Ordered some new fuel system components as the intank style pump was a pain. I bought a Walbro GSL393 (which is what the 750turbo guys use as a replacement) as well as some other fittings and filters to finalize the mounting of it all: fuel pump, pre (30 micron) and post filter (10micron), flex fuel sensor. The hardest thing to find are some 90deg fittings. ebay had some nice swivel m10x1 to 5/16 barb 90deg fittings, so i hope those hold up as


the exhaust tubing (stainless 304 sch10 1" nom pipe) and a few bends has arrived for the turbo header. still working on the turbo flanges and head adapters (Kawasakik1e is helping with these ) .

I saw these neato half clamps that a 750turbo guy made....grey part is the kaw cylinder head, blue is a machined piece that mates to the head and is clamped on by two of the yel/purp assemblies.


Ported the turbo so it can go together for the last time.


I have a 60301N facet pump for the turbo oil return (low current... 1.5A, check valved) or I can use a mechanical scavenge pump....Im working on mating a h*nda 50 oil pump to the secondary shaft cover like the turbo bikes do.



Theres other misc stuff too: swing arm bearings, oil cooler, turbo oil filter, zr7 oil pump, needle bearing clutch pusher.

The custom scavenge pump works

photos.app.goo.gl/jNNVGxFr3sgNhst39

Your doing a Fantastic job documenting this build. Everything looks very well thought out. Definitely providinga lot of guidance for anyone thinking about trying their hand at anyone of the different facets of this overall project. [/center]

Been a few weeks... here's a quick update.

Here's the scavenge pump after cleaning it up.


Back side with drive nut adapater


Made a turbo oil sump. The scavenge pump will draw from here. Kawasakik1e is trying out the mech scavenge pump, but im currently stuck with a facet pump as the 650 doesnt have a nut on the secondary shaft


More info on the turbo... I still have no compressor map for it, but the compressor is the same size as a GT1544 so its rated up to 150HP as i expected. 125HP should be around 14psi of boost. the compressor has a bigger inducer than the stock 750 turbo so its rated for more flow than the HT10B. The exducer is a couple mm smaller... Smaller turbine wheel overall though, so it should spool fast. I have these measurements somewhere.


The waste gate will need some modification as its not adjustable and set for 20psi I think ill use an external spring to set this to 5psi and use a boost controller.


Turbo manifold is now done. I'm still working on the clamps for the head as the first version was not really weldable. Have more parts coming and I made a jig to get them right this time.

Boost piping has also been jigged up in the photo below... 1.5" 16ga aluminum. A 2" CLR bend works perfectly to get into the bottom of the airbox with the low profile breather cap. I lathed a little adapter that goes from that 2" CLR bend into a kz1000 boot (the same ones i used on the TBs... Its probably not required... a bead roll would probably be fine.


Put ubolts on the frame and used 1/8 steel wire to hang the turbo. Digital level used to get it aligned to the frame.


The lathed head collars and V1 clamps.


Close up of the header. this is 1" SCH 10 SS pipe and a few cast bends. Lathed collars for the head out of some 304 tube. Laser cut / machined turbo flanges. 1/2 for the inlet, 3/8 for the outlet. This guy was a pain mainly due too warping even with it bolted to the head and i tried to keep the heat down. the compounding merge angles did not help for sure. I had to heat up the header and put it in a stretch jig to get it back straight.



Made a bracket for the fuel stuff... 30u pre filter, e85 sensor, fuel pump and 10u post filter.


I will also be doing some work on the 750 built motor. It needs:
-base spacer (I'm gonna drop compression from 10.25 to 8.4 or so with a .075" (14g spacer).
-zr750 oil pump installed
-needle bearing clutch pusher
-new clutch nut
-reworked oil pan... first one got warped with welding. (I dont need an oil temp sensor now anyways.)

I also figured out oil line routing. The stator side galley has very little clearance (due to the stator cover), so i had to buy a smaller m18x1.5 to 4AN adapter to feed the turbo. The original banjo style fitting would not work.

Facet pump will return oil to the breather cover most likely. Its here or the clutch cover above where the kick start would be.

On timing cover side, any fitting will fit, so im using a 10AN m18x1.5 banjo style fitting to return the oil from the cooler. I originally planned a straight adapter and a 90 10an hose fitting but it sticks out pretty far.

Out of all the weldable metal alloys out there, stainless moves the most with the heat of welding. I can't imagine what you had to go through to get the head pipes to all line up again!! It gave me a shudder when thinking about it... great effort, dude!

that's good to know. I've seen so many people make headers out of these cast SS bends/pipe and I have massive respect for those guys now.... what a pain. I didn't know what else to use as i couldn't find anything with cast or pre bent bends in this size of tube/pipe. I would've been fine with mild steel and coating it.

Welding everything in sub-assemblies (runners, 4-1 collector etc) and then doing the final welds seems like the best way... so the long welds on the merges really killed me.

Keeping it on the head kept it within 1/4" so this is what i did to get it back in shape... all thread adjusters, a map torch, and some square tube to keep the collars in line

Excellent idea with the spreaders. On good source for stainless exhaust tubing is Burns Stainless. They carry many sizes and shapes of mandrel bent tube.

VERY Impressive work Saablord
Keep it up !!!!!!!!
Dave

I did a quick calculation for the compressor map... and it looks pretty good! i assumed boost would build up to 14psi at 4000krpm and stay there till 11,000.

Its on the surge line (engine cant breath enough air) while building boost, but I used stock 650 VE numbers, so the line would move to the right on my motor.


Excel sheet:

What I do to mitigate stainless moving is to fully weld each seam as I go. Starting with merges. That way any movement has occurred before you fit the next piece. super tight fitup helps too

These are the images from the 12/21/20 post that was lost. It's pretty much all sheetmetal work for the battery box, oil cooler mount, and scavenge pump mount.

Base gasket made on a cnc plas cutter


CAD model of the battery box


Brake press used for bending everything


Prototyping the oil cooler mount


Prototyping the scavenge pump mount


Battery box sheet metal before bending. I used press in studs.


Some of the janky setup i had to do to get god bends.


Test assy of the battery box with components.


Test fit in the bike.