CSR1000 Project Build

Next on the list of things to be done,was the rearsets. Way too high and way too rear. From what I remember,they're from a CBR 600.They work fine but the position is very uncomfortable. I was very happy with the mounting plates that I made originally but they just dont cut the mustard.So,I decide to make another set and try to find a better position for them. Not as easy as it sounds.
 The same technique as before. Started off with some 8mm MDF and bolted the onto the mounting lugs;
 
Then I held the rearsets to them and marked them up;
 
Cut them up to a nice shape,and fitted them onto the RS. I had to double up the brake side to get the clearance I needed;
 
 
Once I had something that worked,I transferred it to  some 8mm alu plate;
 
 
Spacers for the brake side;
 

 
 
 
A lot of trial and error;
 
But they came out ok;
 
 
Eventually,I'll anodize them,as I did the earlier ones but for now,they'll do;
 
 

 So,that was that. Time for a shake down. A nice day turned up,so I went for a spin to blow the cobwebs away. The bike starts pretty much first time off the button and idles nicely. No complaints from the repair I made to the starter motor gear mount. I will pull the cover off and have a visual check at some point but I feel pretty confident that its sound.Despite being less than half the size of the original,the new lithium battery has a helluva kick to it.
(I calculated it as six cigarette packets.)
 

The motor sounds good. Still plenty of rattles but there's none of the banging and clanging that I had before on start up.The result of the carb balance probably.The bike pulls like a train and it goes like shit off a blanket. Though I cant really cain it yet as, after all these years, its still not run in.Although it idles well (around 1200RPM), I've noticed once its warmed up,if I'm sitting at traffic lights for example, it'll hang at around 1500. Not sure whats going on there. I know the carbs are clean,the pods are clean (and oiled) the manifolds are solid with no leaks and the throttle cable is running smooth. Something for the tuner.
 There's a huge difference in the riding position.Way better than before. A lot more comfortable. Making new foot peg brackets was a pain in the arse but well worth it.Though, leaning into lefthand corners, my toes are hitting the road. (I'm lazy and ride with my arches on the pegs rather than the balls of my feet. I'll have to change that or change the brackets again.) Talking about corners, It doesn't gently fall into them like a modern bike.,You really have to throw the bike into them. Takes a bit of getting used to. The result of building a bike with no understanding of bike geometry I reckon. And it is low. Very. You really have to take it easy going over ramps,curbs etc.or the exhaust scrapes. There is still some adjustment to be had. In the front end at least,I've got another 5cm to the fork tops and at the back theres plenty of adjustment in the shocks but thats limited by the chain clearance over the swing arm.
 As I mentioned before,the clutch is very heavy. Gear change is fine and there's no problem finding neutral but working the lever really becomes a strain after a while. I think its down to the new springs I fitted, so this winter I'll swap them over for the old ones and see if that helps.
Very happy with the tank. I've always been half expecting it to dissolve and dump fuel everywhere but all is well. Its had fuel in it since the spring and no problems.I put my finger in to feel the sealant and it still feels solid. Happy days.
The electrics all seem good. Lights,indicators,horn etc. Seems to be charging as it should. (the battery even has a level indicator on it. Still reads full.) but that's something that will need a longer shakedown or regular use to say definitely.So, I think thats it for the season. Over the winter, I want to change the clutch springs,check the starter gear repair and think about paint.I'm still not decided on how to go. I like the old colours that I had but its maybe time for a change. I want to show off the carbon fiber tank but I dont like the carbon fiber look!! What to do??The main project for the winter though is to sort out the engine paint. The engine looks terrible. It lets the whole bike down.. I originally painted it with PJ1 and it looked fantastic when I first did it but I never cured it,so as soon as I refitted it and spilled petrol on it,everything went downhill from there. The bike is never going to look good if I dont sort that out. So thats the big project for this winter.Another thing I need to think about is a new battery box. The bike still has the original, which is very handy for all the gubbins mounted to it but its way too big for the wee lithium battery. A lot of wasted space in there.Its going to be a busy winter.

   

 

What is the current distance from the top yolk to the axle centre ? have you considered zed1015's internal mod on the forks that will give you approx 32mm ?

I have a few cm play from the top of the yolk to the top of the fork. I had fork extensions made up,for that purpose. (Look at the last photo,you can see the silver of the extensions on top of the gold of the forks).The bigger problem,from what I remember,is the bottom of the yolk. On the ZX9R forks there is a sort of taper,so If I go to far the diameter of the fork changes. Hard to explain and I'm sure I went through it earlier in the thread(God knows where though). Anyway,its not a big problem and I,ll get to it somewhere down the line. For now, I'm concentrating on the engine.
 Its out of the frame and on the work table.I,m a good way into getting the old PJ1 stripped off it. I made a (wooden) stand this evening to make things a bit easier. I think another week or so and I should have it all cleaned off. Photos to come.

Yea I remember reading about the external diameter issue, however the mod I am referring to happens inside the fork and allows the fork to extend further giving you around 32mm extra without moving the forks in the yolks

Well,the ground clearance is something for next year. For now,its engine out for a scrub and a fresh coat of paint.
 
So,this is whats left of the PJ1 i used originally.
 
To be fair,it must be 10 years old by now but although its covered well and gave a beautiful finish, the 'cure by running' didn't work out.
One positive side effect of that is that it strips off pretty easy
 
though I have been experimenting with different methods
 
I blocked off everything before starting with the paint stripper as it needed hosing down as I went along
 
At least I thought I had blocked off everything.I completely missed the hole for the clutch push rod. Doh! Luckily I noticed before I really got to that side of the engine,so,if water did get in,it was indirect and very little (I hope!) I did give it a good dousing with WD40,just to be sure.
I also built a stand to incorperate a catch tank for all the crap coming off it.
 
These pictures are from a week or 2 back and I've since finished stripping all the PJ1 off it. The alloy underneath is in reasonable condition. I'll post some more recent photos soon.
On a side note,any idea what this is for?
 

That is the original “ground “ point 

Davido I love your project. It is a serious inspiration for me as I look throughout your entire build process. Im excited to see a fresh engine!