New KZ650 Project for the Michigan Winter!

Thanks! How would I know if they are generic or not? Is there an OEM marking on them?

Rideallyear wrote:

Thanks! How would I know if they are generic or not? Is there an OEM marking on them?
 

Genuine Mikuni jets have a "square within a square" hallmark engraved on them.

When taking the carbs apart, get yourself 4 containers to keep each carb's parts together.
Try not to mix parts. although not critical for certain items.

 

Finding a suitable sized tub can be tricky 

 

I took the carb rack out tonight. I was much faster the second time around.
I'm doing one carb at the time, the bowl was pretty nasty inside. I was able to clean the main jet, the pilot jet, the float valve and all the larger passages. There is only one tube that i can run a small brass wire through: the one that sticks out at the bottom of the main chamber, on the air box side. It seems to connect all 4 carbs together and has a small cylinder at its base, in the float bowl.

ThatGPzGuy , the main jet may be a generic one. It has unrecognizable marks and the O-ring is decomposing. So i'll try to get new one.

Again thank you guys! I'm way more confident tackling this with your help.

Rideallyear wrote:

I took the carb rack out tonight. I was much faster the second time around.
I'm doing one carb at the time, the bowl was pretty nasty inside. I was able to clean the main jet, the pilot jet, the float valve and all the larger passages. There is only one tube that i can run a small brass wire through: the one that sticks out at the bottom of the main chamber, on the air box side. It seems to connect all 4 carbs together and has a small cylinder at its base, in the float bowl.

ThatGPzGuy , the main jet may be a generic one. It has unrecognizable marks and the O-ring is decomposing. So i'll try to get new one.

Again thank you guys! I'm way more confident tackling this with your help.

Member Nessism supplies quality "O" ring sets at a very reasonable price

It took me a while, but I think I got the carbs all cleaned up. In the process, I found that most o-rings were decomposing, so I changed them all, put in new gaskets, drain plugs and change the accelerator pump diaphragm. I also discovered that two air screw springs were missing and this is now that last parts i'm waiting for before putting the carbs back on the bike.
In the meantime, i'm wondering if I need to check (and adjust) the floater levels.

Yes, you can check the float levels now while the carbs are still off.
See if you can rig them up on a board or vice so they sit level, and use a hose on the drain screw to chack fuel level.

 
 

Thank you rstnick!

I think you're right, it will be easier to adjust the float levels now while the carbs are still out.
I saw in the book the tube that you can use to screw on the drain, Kaw 57001-208 if i'm not mistaking. It's not expensive but I will take several days before i can get it. So i'm wondering if I can make one myself with brass fittings from my local hardware store.

Oh and i like how you put the carbs leveled in the bench wise! I was going to make something more complex. You save me time!

For VM carbs, you can take a piece of cheap clear vinyl tubing and pencil point the end using a grinder.  Then take your modified end and screw it into the drain plug threads.  The tube will conform to the bowl well enough for the job.  There may be a leak here or there, but it's no big deal with the carbs on your bench.  Key thing, get the fuel level correct.  Most of the time the level will be high.  You can bend the tang on the float, or just bend the float proper.  If the tang is angled down more than slightly, bending the float is the better play.

Last thing, when doing this clear tube test, you obviously need a remote tank of some sort.  Position the tank above the carbs at roughly the same height as the real tank would be.  And when you allow fuel to flow into the carbs, do it slowly.  You don't want to shock the float valves.  

Good news!

After dismantling and cleaning the carbs twice, I finally got the KZ650 to start, idle and rev-up. I followed your guidance and changed all gaskets, o-ring, main-jets. As is did this, I notice some air screw springs were missing. I also found a leak at the T fuel supply tube. I replace the old teflon tape with fuel-resistant one. The engine now fires right up and I can rather quickly get off the choke. It idles at 1,500 rpm which might still be high according to the book.

I noticed that when I push the start button, I always get 2 or 3 "tick" sounds where the starter doesn't kick-in. Usually, at the third or fourth time the starter gets the engine going. I supposed this isn't a feature, so I will have to troubleshoot that next.

I'm pretty stoked! Thanks for your help.
J-