building a new wiring harness

79' KZ650 B3

I am looking to build a new wiring harness.  Any recommendations on the type of wire to use?  The most reliable robust option available.

-Rusty

Hello everybody,

Owner of a 79' KZ650 B3 for around 10 years now (its been active maybe 3-4 seasons/years of that time) - it has never had a dependable electrical system.  It has consumed at least 4 batteries, 3 regulator/rectifiers - it does not seem to consistently charged the battery.  My goal is to make the electrical system as dependable as possible.  I've read this bike does not have the most robust electrical system.  Working with electronics for some time I am aiming to rebuild the system beginning with the wiring-harness/loom.  I would like to remove the electric-starter system completely (kick only). 

My first question is:  What type of wire and connectors to build this harness with? 

I recently held a position testing RF cables and learned about discontinuities and how they are related to signal-integrity / power transmission.  I enjoy working/learning with electricity + magnetism and have a reliable multi-meter and bench power-supply. 

Glad to be here and any advice or opinions are appreciated.

 

    

Looks like the ship has sailed...

Regarding the charging system, it's actually quite simple to make a reliable system on bikes using a three phase system.

First step, buy a Shindengen SH775.  This is a series type R/R, which will protect your stator from frying.
Second step, buy a quality stator such as a Rick's.
Third, wire it like this.  The diagram was originally created for GS Suzuki bikes, but it can be executed on KZ bikes easily enough also.

NOTE: The power connection, red wire, is the only place you need to tap into the original harness.  All other wiring should be new.

One warning: there are tons of fake SH775's in the marketplace.  Buy a used one off ebay, and make sure you can read "SH775" printed on the top fin.  You can find these for about $50 shipped, and they are super robust and almost never fail.  

SH775 Install by nessism , on Flickr

For connectors terminals etc check out Vintage Connections. I found them very good. Spend the money and buy a good quality ratcheting crimper. You wont regret it. They also sell wire. A buddy had a wiring loom out of an old pickup from which I salvaged most of the wire I needed. As far as I can remember I think  I used mostly 18 gage (18AWG). 

Check the Filebase tab above for a colour wiring diagram. I had a quick look,  didn't see one for the B3 but may have missed it.

www.vintageconnections.com/collections/all

I did not see one in the filebase other than a West German one for the B# and C3. I have this one from a scan of a manual. Not sure that you need it but thought it might add to the topic.

thank you for the input Nessism - 

what ship are you referring to?

Last time I tested them, the RR and stator are functional, although I can test them again.  The harness is very deteriorated.     

I was asking what type of wire is recommended to build the loom with.  I was considering Raychem spec 55.  16 gauge seems the size.  store.emhmotorsports.com/raychem-spec-55-wire-single-core/
The current loom uses multi core - is this single core acceptable for a motorcycle application?  I understand you lose some flexibility.

  

 
 

thanks for the vendor recommendation JR - I'll take a look.  I do have the wiring diagram  

Thank you for the file gd4now - I have been using this diagram from the clymer manual.  Yours is drawn differently and the colors are helpful.  Thanks.  The more information the better.

newt14 wrote
The current loom uses multi core - is this single core acceptable for a motorcycle application? I understand you lose some flexibility.
..................................

Answer
Use the multi strand

newt14 wrote:

thank you for the input Nessism - 

what ship are you referring to?

Last time I tested them, the RR and stator are functional, although I can test them again.  The harness is very deteriorated.     

I was asking what type of wire is recommended to build the loom with.  I was considering Raychem spec 55.  16 gauge seems the size.  store.emhmotorsports.com/raychem-spec-55-wire-single-core/
The current loom uses multi core - is this single core acceptable for a motorcycle application?  I understand you lose some flexibility.
 

Single core cable is intended for buildings and "fixed structures" it is absolutely not suitable for automotive use. Aside from the lack of flexibility it is susceptible to fracturing due to "vibration fatigue". You should use "thin wall" multistrand cable. Thin wall refers to the insulation, automotive only uses 12v (generally) so thin wall is best for flexibility and also to prevent ending up with a loom the size of a "baby's arm". With regards gauge you need to look at the current flow in the circuit then use a calculator (there is a link to one in my elec fault finding guide) to establish wiring gauge which ensures a "volt drop" of less than 0.2v. Below is an example of a chart I put together for another member ref wire gauge for his project


 

   Dry vinyl tape for building & repairing wiring harnesses.  It's what Mama Kaw used & likely still uses

  Dry vinyl tape adheres firmly to itself when spirally wrapped.  It doesn't leave adhesive residue behind when unwound as electrical tape does. Secure the loose ends with a couple of wraps of electrical tape.

   Not necessarily recommending this vendor, posting only as example.  We bought dry vinyl tape on amazon.
www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-165110

Good Ridin'
slmjim & Z1BEBE

newt14 wrote:

thank you for the input Nessism - 


Last time I tested them, the RR and stator are functional, although I can test them again. 

  
 

Do you want functional or most reliable? They are not the same thing.