First Post chain drive to shaft drive

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Re: First Post chain drive to shaft drive

13 Jul 2025 11:17
#914642
so valve lash is 004 to .008. Double checked and It's .004-.008. Not great but will that make the compression bad also?

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Re: First Post chain drive to shaft drive

13 Jul 2025 11:26
#914643
so valve lash is 004 to .008. Double checked and It's .004-.008. Not great but will that make the compression bad also?
It won't help but I doubt that alone is giving such low readings (you need around 100psi for combustion to occur cleanly) what shape is your battery in ? it needs to spin the motor effectively to build pressure - also where you holding the throttle wide open when testing ?

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Re: First Post chain drive to shaft drive

13 Jul 2025 12:35
#914645
Just in case you have not already done this, please read and memorize everything on Lou's website, then download it all, and maybe print it all just in case.

s3.amazonaws.com/gpzweb/CamsKZZXZR550500...KZZXZR550500400.html
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Re: First Post chain drive to shaft drive

13 Jul 2025 13:30
#914646
It wa a new battery with throttle closed.  I let it crank a long while to reach it's peak pressure. 

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Re: First Post chain drive to shaft drive

13 Jul 2025 14:24
#914648
Texas, I will recheck my lash using those procedures and see what I have.  Thank you

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Re: First Post chain drive to shaft drive

Yesterday 18:49
#914651
Compression should be checked with a hot engine and throttle wide open.
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Re: First Post chain drive to shaft drive

Yesterday 02:22
#914654
If everything looks intact, don't be overly concerned with those low compression numbers. Because they have been probably sitting for years a few things can happen in slumber mode. Rings could be stuck to piston. Put your favorite oil down each sparkplug hole and let it sit there for a while, maybe a week? Rotate engine every couple days. Know that half your valves were open during it's nap. Built-up old carbon can get gummy especially if oil seeped past seals/guides and soak into carbon or it was running rich when parked. Either way you'll have a paste/chunks that keeps the valve from seating. If too long in a wet storage environment, valve faces and seats can rust/pit. Also note a Leak-Down test would be far superior to a pedestrian compression test. Have Fun!   

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Re: First Post chain drive to shaft drive

Yesterday 02:29
#914655
Also noteworthy. Don't be too concerned with those valve shims yet! At least you know now .004-008" they aren't too tight. I would be a bit concerned with those .008 numbers though. Means the valves are not fully seating. Want to start it and bed those valves in again first before shimming.
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Re: First Post chain drive to shaft drive

Yesterday 02:38
#914656
If everything looks intact, don't be overly concerned with those low compression numbers. Because they have been probably sitting for years a few things can happen in slumber mode. Rings could be stuck to piston. Put your favorite oil down each sparkplug hole and let it sit there for a while, maybe a week? Rotate engine every couple days. Know that half your valves were open during it's nap. Built-up old carbon can get gummy especially if oil seeped past seals/guides and soak into carbon or it was running rich when parked. Either way you'll have a paste/chunks that keeps the valve from seating. If too long in a wet storage environment, valve faces and seats can rust/pit. Also note a Leak-Down test would be far superior to a pedestrian compression test. Have Fun!   
Great advice as usual Clay, Can I just add that you should spin it over on the starter with the plugs removed to "blow out" any excess oil in the cylinder before attempting to start it. If you where "enthusiastic" applying the oil it could cause the cylinder to "hydraulic" and damage a con rod etc !!
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Re: First Post chain drive to shaft drive

Yesterday 03:25
#914658
Gotta put a warning sticker on everything, ha. Thanks for picking up my slacker typing Wookie!!
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Re: First Post chain drive to shaft drive

Yesterday 05:55
#914663
It will not start so that's why I'm taking it apart. I will say that, having taken the cover off, the chain is very tight. Like a drum. I will look into the leak down test and check that out. Thanks for the advice!

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Re: First Post chain drive to shaft drive

Yesterday 06:46
#914664
It will not start so that's why I'm taking it apart. I will say that, having taken the cover off, the chain is very tight. Like a drum. I will look into the leak down test and check that out. Thanks for the advice!
It's still worth "soaking" the rings with penetrating oil as suggested, nothing to lose and potentially a lot to gain. Also once it's had some oil in it if the compression picks up that would indicate the loss as being the bores as opposed to valve related :) With regards the chain, you can re-set the tension ref the FSM in the file-base here on the site

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