Search Results (Searched for: ZRX shocks)

Welcome aboard. I would check with Ikon (Koni), or Hagon. Keep in mind that if yours are air adjustable, you will be giving that up.
The KYB shocks from the ZRX are fully adjustable, but even adjusted to their shortest length, are a bit longer than your factory shocks. Also, they are 15 or 20 years old now, and will likely need rebuilding. It is an option, but you need to be aware that it may entail a significant expense and may require some some other modifications to keep your suspension geometry where it needs to be.
The KYB shocks from the ZRX are fully adjustable, but even adjusted to their shortest length, are a bit longer than your factory shocks. Also, they are 15 or 20 years old now, and will likely need rebuilding. It is an option, but you need to be aware that it may entail a significant expense and may require some some other modifications to keep your suspension geometry where it needs to be.
KZ1100A Shock Upgrades was created by AmStaFF
04 Sep 2021 18:07
Just joined the forum. Found a nice KZ1100A shaft last year. Just like the one I had new in 1983 and sold after two years.
I know there are threads on this topic of substitute shocks, but they're old and maybe not specific to this model.
It seems there isn't an Ohlins option anymore, but am looking for a high quality shock to make the bike feel more modern. Rear suspension feels a little dead.
Has anyone fitted an aftermarket shock or ZRX shocks to this bike?
Thanks
I know there are threads on this topic of substitute shocks, but they're old and maybe not specific to this model.
It seems there isn't an Ohlins option anymore, but am looking for a high quality shock to make the bike feel more modern. Rear suspension feels a little dead.
Has anyone fitted an aftermarket shock or ZRX shocks to this bike?
Thanks
Dales rear swing arm is off a ZRX1100, I know I have the same basic setup. However, there is a company call MotoGPWorks that sells a exact S1 swingarm replica for about $1300.00 bucks. I found that the ZRX1100 setup is plenty strong enough, and raises the rear about an inch, thus slightly reducing the rake angle. I have about 3500 miles on my zrx1100 swingarm and I can definitively say it makes a huge difference in handling. I also, at the same time, increased the swingarm pivot bolt to a 20mm using a ZRX rear axle, it fits perfectly. I believe the last iteration of the twin shocker GPZ/J models frames are pretty dang good handling. Their biggest issue was the spindly rear swing arm (frame wise) and slop in the bearing to pivot bolt connection. Goes without saying the forks and rear shocks were lethal in stock form. I swapped out the rears for a set of zrx1100 KYB's, which are light years ahead of the stockers, the forks were re-worked with RaceTek springs and gold valve cartridge emulators. I re-worked the emulators to get a tighter seal and a progressive type high speed valve spring. I fine tuned the fork oil as well...this made a huge difference. These old forks have way too large oil passage holes, they require thick heavy oil to actually dampen. With emulators installed you can actually have high speed and low speed dampening.
JM2C
577Nitro
JM2C
577Nitro
To Mod or to not Mod my 1981 GPZ550 was created by 577nitro
08 Jul 2021 15:55
I've been kicking this project around for too long now...everything is ready to come back together, but I just can't decide on what to do as far as modding it.
Options:
1. Restored back to original condition no mods to engine other than rebuild with new parts, mild suspension upgrades, cartridge emulators and KYB ZRX shocks.
2. Restore cosmetically but mod the engine for more HP.
3. Full resto-mod with upgraded parts, including suspension, swingarm, wheels, engine, etc...
4. Restore same as three except swap the engine out for a 1986 ZX600R Ninja liquid cooled engine.
Most of the restore work is done, parts, frame coated, original engine ready to be assembled in stock form.
In my research for a option 2,3 I have found the parts needed for the HP upgrade. They are 26mm CR carbs, 615cc big bore, Dyna2000 ignition, Kerker 4into1, head rebuild and port and polish, & Megacycle cams. This is probably good for 10 to 15 HP bump..I hope...this is the most expensive route. $2500.00+
For option 4, I already bought all of the parts for the most part(cheap). Engine was dirt cheap but needs a complete overhaul. Not all of the engineering has been completed but it is possible. HP, according to the specs is 85HP at the crank. I might be able to get 65hp from the stock engine, so this is a big jump. However, this is the longest route as the engine needs rebuilding, parts fabricated and fitted....etc....and I want to get it going by fall.
What I'm thinking is Option #1 to get it going and work towards Option #4 using a donor cheap dog frame for the fabrication. If I can get it all fitted, then invest in rebuilding the ZX600R engine.
Not sure if anybody has gone these routes before, if so any advice is welcomed.
Almost forgot...original bike was bought as a rescue for $300.00 barely running.
Thanks
577Nitro
Options:
1. Restored back to original condition no mods to engine other than rebuild with new parts, mild suspension upgrades, cartridge emulators and KYB ZRX shocks.
2. Restore cosmetically but mod the engine for more HP.
3. Full resto-mod with upgraded parts, including suspension, swingarm, wheels, engine, etc...
4. Restore same as three except swap the engine out for a 1986 ZX600R Ninja liquid cooled engine.
Most of the restore work is done, parts, frame coated, original engine ready to be assembled in stock form.
In my research for a option 2,3 I have found the parts needed for the HP upgrade. They are 26mm CR carbs, 615cc big bore, Dyna2000 ignition, Kerker 4into1, head rebuild and port and polish, & Megacycle cams. This is probably good for 10 to 15 HP bump..I hope...this is the most expensive route. $2500.00+
For option 4, I already bought all of the parts for the most part(cheap). Engine was dirt cheap but needs a complete overhaul. Not all of the engineering has been completed but it is possible. HP, according to the specs is 85HP at the crank. I might be able to get 65hp from the stock engine, so this is a big jump. However, this is the longest route as the engine needs rebuilding, parts fabricated and fitted....etc....and I want to get it going by fall.
What I'm thinking is Option #1 to get it going and work towards Option #4 using a donor cheap dog frame for the fabrication. If I can get it all fitted, then invest in rebuilding the ZX600R engine.
Not sure if anybody has gone these routes before, if so any advice is welcomed.
Almost forgot...original bike was bought as a rescue for $300.00 barely running.
Thanks
577Nitro
Replied by TexasKZ on topic 1982 KZ1100A2
20 Jun 2021 12:02
If you really want to keep the air adjustment, I suspect that another set of originals or, as ghostdive mentioned, maybe the Goldwing version, are likely the only choice. Either way, they will be decades old.
There have been improvements in shocks since those were new. If I were in your place, I would contact Ikon and Hagon to see what they can do for you. Progressive may also have an option. I would also contact Traxxion Dynamics to see if they have a recommendation. I recently bought some Bitubo shocks from them for my ZRX. Great shocks and a good company to deal with. If you are feeling particularly flush with funds, and want the very best, Ohlins still made shocks for the KZ1000 / 1100 the last time I checked.
There have been improvements in shocks since those were new. If I were in your place, I would contact Ikon and Hagon to see what they can do for you. Progressive may also have an option. I would also contact Traxxion Dynamics to see if they have a recommendation. I recently bought some Bitubo shocks from them for my ZRX. Great shocks and a good company to deal with. If you are feeling particularly flush with funds, and want the very best, Ohlins still made shocks for the KZ1000 / 1100 the last time I checked.

Yes. The high level shocks and forks of today are a quantum leap ahead of the stuff that these old bikes came with. Yes, you can still buy cheap crappy stuff if you want, but the latest top-shelf stuff is surprisingly good.Has shock technology not changed in 40 years?
For example, I recently replaced the shocks on my ZRX. It came with fully adjustable, piggyback KYB shocks that were pretty high-zoot twenty-one years ago. The new Bitubo shocks have the same adjustment features, but they perform much better in every way. The tire stays planted even on rough pavement, cornering is much more stable and confidence inspiring, and the ride is noticeably more plush.
Replied by blipco on topic Fork upgrade with emulators
23 May 2021 09:32
I just want to update...
I finally got the zr7s onto the country backroads that I'm well familiar with and I can say this.. I have two other bikes with professionally modified suspensions that are set for my weight and riding style. And I cannot tell the difference between the damper rods in the 7S and the modded cartridge forks/shocks on my other two bikes. (ZRX1200 and 2017 z900).
I was riding the same speeds on the same twisty roads with ease and without any pucker moments that you'll get with a bike with poor suspension. Of course the TD damper rods use real cartridge fork shim stacks so it's to be expected.
It's also very stable at 80+ on the highway.
I highly recommend the TD damper rods. Well worth it.
I finally got the zr7s onto the country backroads that I'm well familiar with and I can say this.. I have two other bikes with professionally modified suspensions that are set for my weight and riding style. And I cannot tell the difference between the damper rods in the 7S and the modded cartridge forks/shocks on my other two bikes. (ZRX1200 and 2017 z900).
I was riding the same speeds on the same twisty roads with ease and without any pucker moments that you'll get with a bike with poor suspension. Of course the TD damper rods use real cartridge fork shim stacks so it's to be expected.
It's also very stable at 80+ on the highway.
I highly recommend the TD damper rods. Well worth it.
Replied by calum on topic 1977 KZ1000 Restomod
04 May 2021 05:35
Thanks, that's what I wanted to hear
Now I just need to check the overlap on the fork tubes so I can decide if I can just extend them internally or whether I need to make extensions for the uppers.
The shocks are öhlins was a hard decision but they were cheaper than the wheels! They have 10mm of adjustment (365mm +8/-2). They're for the ZRX1100 which is why I'm trying to find out what angle the stock ZRX shocks are at. From pictures it looks like the 62° will be pretty close.

The shocks are öhlins was a hard decision but they were cheaper than the wheels! They have 10mm of adjustment (365mm +8/-2). They're for the ZRX1100 which is why I'm trying to find out what angle the stock ZRX shocks are at. From pictures it looks like the 62° will be pretty close.

Pretty much what I am thinking at the moment. I think I'll be pretty well sorted if I can get away with a small increase in fork length (15mm) without need extensions for the outer tube. Add the shock mount change for more progressive rear shocks and I'll have a pretty good base to refine over the years. I'll end up with a bit more trail than I had on my hornet, with much better suspension and a bit longer wheel base. As long as the suspension is set up properly, I think I'll manage to have fun riding itThe fork length numbers aren't particularily helpful ...
I think if you massage what you have you can end up with a bike that handles well, even if it isn't optimized to perfection....

BTW: thanks for the numbers.
@kzstreetfighter71: I'd quite like a list of good swaps as well. Seems the ZRX front end is pretty popular - just need to get the top of the triples about flush with the stem nut - but I'd be interested to know which modern front ends are being used (USD forks). BTW: you need to find that little red button so you reply doesn't always end up in the quote


Thanks for that, some really good info there.
I should have posted more questions about the chassis here as I did with the engine
More numbers:
I went back to the garage and adjusted the rear axle as far forward as it would go - 520mm pivot to axle.
Offset is 40mm
Forks are 770 (according to the internet, haven't actually checked)
My forks will end up sitting at a point about flush with the top yoke on the Sanctuary bike you posted - giving me about the same height as a 790mm fork on that bike (plus a bit more due to shorter offset).
I lifted the front about 14-15mm off the ground today to simulate lengthening the forks. Put me at about 24.5° (rough measurement, will do some trig later). Swingarm was at 11° and the shocks would sit about where the silver cross is in the picture below (pretty close to the sanctuary bike and where pretty much everyone else seems to put them). This would put the shocks at about 28° to vertical, as apposed to 18° with the stock mounts.
Lengthening the forks by 15mm and moving the shocks should sort things out. Wheelbase will be pretty close to the sanctuary numbers you posted (10mm longer swingarm, 5mm less offset), albeit with both axles about 5-10mm closer to the rear of the bike. Rake will be at 24-25° and trail will be a few mm longer due to the shorter offset. Should be a pretty good starting point though (still have room to move with fork height in the triples and adjustable shock length).
@DoctoRot: do you have any numbers for the ZRX rear suspension/geometry? The shocks are for a ZRX so I'd like to base things off that, couldn't find any numbers though.
It's less guessing and more trying to get the most out of what turned out to be less than ideal advice. Not really bad advice, just less informed than I assumed - and we all know what assumption is the mother ofdon't guess, do some research, you'll find the information you're looking for...

More numbers:
I went back to the garage and adjusted the rear axle as far forward as it would go - 520mm pivot to axle.
Offset is 40mm
Forks are 770 (according to the internet, haven't actually checked)
My forks will end up sitting at a point about flush with the top yoke on the Sanctuary bike you posted - giving me about the same height as a 790mm fork on that bike (plus a bit more due to shorter offset).
I lifted the front about 14-15mm off the ground today to simulate lengthening the forks. Put me at about 24.5° (rough measurement, will do some trig later). Swingarm was at 11° and the shocks would sit about where the silver cross is in the picture below (pretty close to the sanctuary bike and where pretty much everyone else seems to put them). This would put the shocks at about 28° to vertical, as apposed to 18° with the stock mounts.
Lengthening the forks by 15mm and moving the shocks should sort things out. Wheelbase will be pretty close to the sanctuary numbers you posted (10mm longer swingarm, 5mm less offset), albeit with both axles about 5-10mm closer to the rear of the bike. Rake will be at 24-25° and trail will be a few mm longer due to the shorter offset. Should be a pretty good starting point though (still have room to move with fork height in the triples and adjustable shock length).
@DoctoRot: do you have any numbers for the ZRX rear suspension/geometry? The shocks are for a ZRX so I'd like to base things off that, couldn't find any numbers though.
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