I used ZRX1100 shocks, don't know what year but I think they're the same. Lots of info on ZRX riders forum. I put them on my Z1-B, they fit the studs fine. But the left shock needed to be spaced out with a couple flat washers for chain clearance. I also trimmed the chain guard, but probably could have just used flat washers. The 1100 shocks are 14.25" eye to eye. A little longer than stock Z1 shocks, but I did a mod I found on ZRX forum. I lucked out and found the pair on Ebay for $120.

The $100 Niche shocks have ZERO DAMPING. They are just a tight wound pogo stick. They look good, but ride like crap.



To shorten




I've seen Z1/KZ's with ZRX shocks mounted upside down, but I don't like that look.

What year ZRX did you get the shocks from? What was their eye-to-eye length?

I appreciate the feedback on the NCS shocks too. Could you elaborate a bit more on how they're garbage? Just curious...

The Niche repros are garbage as far as performance goes. Do ZRX shocks fit your bike? That's what I replaced my Niche shocks with.

82 GPZ750, with a 1135cc engine. Rear swingarm and shocks from a 2000 ZRX1100, front end is a stock 81 GPZ1100 with a fork brace and progressive suspension fork springs. Thing handles really well.

Luis,
Race Tech sells Gold Valves and proper rate springs for the ZRX shocks. I am using a set of YZF600r cartradge forks on my 1980 KZ1000 ltd. They are 1.25 inches longer then the stock KZ forks so I won't have to worry about ground clearance.

Well, I figure I see what it takes to mount ZRX1200 Shocks on the KZ1000 They are 9/16 longer than stock shocks I spaced the left shock 3 mm, and removed 3 mm off the top of the chain guard tab...

Settings:

Lowest Pre-load.
2 Rebound.
2 Compression.





The ride height is welcome... The suspension travel increased... And, the quality of ride is 10 times better... I went on a bumpy road... I could only feel the front end...

Now that I have the spring specifications I will look into 1.0 kg/mm straight rate springs and either 20W Fork Fluid or Racetech Gold Valve Emulators...

Luis

Oh I still think it will be a fun bike... Not just to ride but also to work on it... Especially once I review every part and bolt on the chassis and re-engineer it to my liking... I had to stop my self from buying parts today, because I actually want to have have a clearer idea of what I want...

I think I want lighten it up a bit first, I know the Police fairing is going to come off. I am definitely going with a simple round headlight... I saw a KZ1000 LTD front fender I like much better than the KZ1000P front fender.

I am going to hold off to front end and rear end conversions... But, I am going to work with the suspension... Firm it up a little. I am buying some ZRX1200R adjustable KYB shocks... These look to be a simple bolt on operation.

If I am not mistaken the stock fork spring rate is 0.620 kg/mm. I am probably going to install stiffer springs on the front... I think with 1.0 kg/mm springs the bike will handle better and wont dive as much when I brake. Also a Gold Valve Cartridge Emulator kit from Racetech would be a good call.

This will keep me busy for a little bit...

I would like modern brakes, and steel braided brake lines...
I would like to remove the big foot rests, in favor of standard foot pegs and foot controls...
I would like lower handlebars...

This looks nice too... Luis

I have two kzs a 79 and an 80 and have always run them as fast as the bike wants to go. Never have I had any hint of wobble in them, ever. Maybe someone hit the front end? Maybe the head bearings are worn out? Time to replace with the upgraded roller bearings? My problems that I have noticed were with my head bearings and old shocks. Of course they don't hold a candle to the handling of the ZRX so I am just going to enjoy the Rex in the corners and ride the kz as hard as I can ride it to the best of it's limits. Now if this were my daily I definitely would upgrade as much as possible to make it handle. Wait a second, I think the new progressive shocks and box swing arm along with the progressive springs and roller bearings in front should help a little.
If you have a classic Z then I suggest for you to get an LTD frame and go from there. Thicker tubes and brace it so you can go back to original stock. Problem fixed.

lushbaugh wrote: i didnt wanna chop and weld on my frame at first either but it needs it, and i have a 79 ltd which is supposed to have less flex but the frame leaves alot to be desired, head woble at 120 is nasty also so i suspect its not true.

Just read les's post. WHAT HE SAID!! :laugh: That is exactly what I'd do. Then you can do the bearings in front and brace the frame up and whenever you decide you've had enough back to original with no issues.

I see the steel vs. aluminum debate all the time on MX sites. Aluminum frames are easier and cheaper to build than a steel tube frame. KTM and other Euro makes still build steel frame bikes...and win championships with them.

toad wrote: My new build will be off a 74 z1, maybe go big block , but was trying to stray from welding on that frame in hopes one day it will be put back to original condition, 7s 150 mph no frame bracing, nice.

That's where I'm at with my Z1B. I can't bring myself to brace the frame, so I'm trying to get better handling with tuning and bolt-on stuff. So far I replaced the shocks with ZRX shocks, that alone seemed to help some with the 80mph tank slappers. I still get a weave in high speed sweepers (45+ mph). I plan on installing emulators in the forks along with stiffer springs and a steering stabilizer.

I'm not expecting to turn like I'm riding a ZX6R, but the bike should be alot safer and stable than it is now.

(And yes, for the 1,000th time, the steering and swingarm bearings are new, lol)

Sooo while I wait for info from Wiseco I worked on some other stuff. Forks! I rode the bike with the ZRX shocks for a year or so. I determined the front was too soft to match the rear. The manual calls for 15w oil, 17.4" from top. So I raised the level to 16" and installed a washer-bolt-washer in each leg to act as a preload spacer. This should give me a bit of firming up.




I made this fork tube clamp years ago and it has been super useful. It works on everything from skinny KZ tubes to beefy KTM sliders.




Done!