TOPIC:

One of my favorite old Kawasaki's to gawk at is the A1 Samurai.


Most notably, I love the classic candy apple red with that great winged tank emblem. So when I was resurrecting my bike post-accident last year, and ended up with red bodywork, I was pretty excited when I found genuine Kawasaki tank badges in the samurai style.


However, I have had a very hard time getting them to stick down firmly. I even tried replacing the adhesive with the 3M stuff that everyone recommends using for car badges and such, and they just don't stay down flush. The badges are too stiff, and my tank is too curved. Ultimately I'd really like to repaint all of my bodywork anyway, and I was thinking that the Samurai style emblem painted on under some clear coat might look really nice. Another raised emblem would also look good, if I can figure out a way to get it to curve to the tank.

Either way, I figured I need to come up with a detailed tracing of the emblem to make it work. So I started by sticking my badges in a flatbed scanner.


I've traced most of it, and here's what I've got so far. Two different versions one with the lines inside the watermark, and one without, and a 3D preview.




Obviously there's a major difference, that being mine has only the Kawasaki river mark logo, and no flag. The flag would prevent a significant challenge in reproducing this in a flat stencil paint-only situation. However I'm still thinking about trying to trace the flag. 

So I'm looking for input. How does it look so far? Does it look good with just the watermark, or should I try to reproduce the flag? The "Kawasaki" text is larger than the original, is it well-proportioned to the rest of the design?

And last comment or question, is if there is anybody else here interested in having stencils, or some other form of this created for their project? I wouldn't be opposed to sharing the files, or making more than just what I need for my bike, and I'm not trying to make money on this. But I don't want to lose money either, so you know how that goes.

The flag is cool for sure, but your design is also nice.  Can't go wrong either way.

A few years back I made these bicycle emblems from etched copper.  Once you get your art work finalized, figuring out what surfaces you want high, and low, making them was not hard.  You could form them with a soft blow hammer and some buck or sandbags so they matched your tank.  Just an option...

P1040241 by nessism , on Flickr
 

They look awesome, nice work

Agree, nice design you've come up with. 

I really like the original flag version. I think it either one would look good with the paint scheme on my 77' KZ 1000LTD.
Have you tried moving the emblems up and forward trying to find a spot where the shape fits your tank better. On the original bike they look to be more forward and up with a bit of forward tilt.

Your 3D modeling looks superb, and will 3D print nicely, no doubt.

However, may I suggest that you try a method, that I think will work, of sticking those badges to you tank?

Cut out the exact shape (but a little smaller in overall dimensions) of the badge from advhesive backed, clear decal plastic sheet, and stick this to your tank, exactly where you need it...
Then, apply a fairly thick (1\8") "pool" of clear silicone sealer, in a "patch", in the centre of the back of the badge and then apply it to your tank (positioned over the clear decal)

Tape the badge in position with masking tape until the silicone is properly set...(8 hours minimum)

The silicone will "squeeze out" and "adapt" to the curve of the tank.
(Probably a good idea to also mask the area around the decal to prevent any "oozed out" silicone from contactiong your nice paintwork)

You can easily remove the badge in the future, without damaging your paintwork.

Worth a try?

H.





 

Thanks guys. I think just for my own amusement and sense of perfectionism, I need to trace the flag and see how it looks in a flat paint/stencil situation. 

To be continued …

Do you have the ability, or access to it, to scan the tank for curvature and then add that to the 3D file you have for the emblem?

Interesting thought. I have tried some 3D scanning apps for iPhone before, but they were underwhelming to put it mildly. 

I suppose one thing I could do is use one of those woodworking needle shape-tracing tools. If I just get an X/Y cross section of the area, that might be easy enough to model. 

Since I’m not doing any of the work I’ll jump in…
I think the flag emblem is fantastic. Couldn’t you make a casting of the tank bump using plaster of Paris (over Saran Wrap to protect the paint) then heat and hammer the cast emblem into the mold to shape it to fit?

I think a hammer would obliterate the badge. It’s metal, but it’s flimsy. 

That’s why you need heat, and maybe pressure instead of hitting it. Tho that may destroy the paint.
Test it out on something similar.

Howardhb had a good idea as well. Lately I have used polyurethane calking instead of silicone for a bathroom remodel. That stuff sticks to anything, glass, wood, metal, smooth glossy porcelain tile, blows silicone away IMO.
I used Liquid Nails Fuze-It LN2000 available at Lowes. Grey in color.