TOPIC:

Zaddict wrote:
Ah, now I'm confused. The All Balls bearing kit came with three new seals. One clearly goes on the right side hub, the other goes in the speedo assembly. I don't see any place for the 3rd, largest seal. Doesn't look like there's a 3rd seal in the parts diagram either. Maybe it's relevant to other bikes that use the same bearings but not to mine...

This bearing application fit several bike models and some didn´t have a cable driven speedo drive. A spacer and the second seal will replace the speedo drive.

Rick H. wrote:
Not trying to hi-jack the thread, but I have a relevant question. When the axle nuts are tightened to spec and locked down with the clamps is there supposed to be any movement in the speedometer gear housing, or is it in fact locked down tight?

It´s dependent of speedo drive housing. Some has fixed Slots to fit into lower fork leg and some not.

Scirocco wrote:
This bearing application fit several bike models and some didn´t have a cable driven speedo drive. A spacer and the second seal will replace the speedo drive.

Yeah, Steve mentioned he used only two seals as well. Then I take back my earlier comment that one seal was missing when I dug into the wheel. Both seals that should have been there were there.

Reinstalled the wheel and everything is working great, even with the janky speedo drive/receiver.

Some lessons learned:
1. Don't believe the hype that you can just use old bearings to seat the new ones. I think that would have worked fine on the left side of the wheel, but on the right side, the old bearing went so far into the recess that it was near impossible to remove. I spent two hours battling it. Ended up just popping both bearings out (old and new) with a tap from the other side with a brass drift. Then used the back side of a socket to seat the new bearing. I was going to try that initially but thought the socket needed to be the same size as the bearing. Not true - worked fine with a socket roughly the same size and I just took care to make sure it was contacting the outer race and tapped around evenly.

2. The factory manual suggests taking off the front fender when removing/reinstalling the wheel. Haynes doesn't. Now I understand why that's important - the front fender acts as a fork stabilizer and it's pretty much impossible to reinstall the wheel unless the fender is removed so the forks have enough give to fit the wheel plus spacers.

3. Speedo receiver doesn't need to be in perfect condition. As Steve mentioned, as long as it seats well in the housing and moves the gear it's probably OK.

In order to use an old bearing, you have to grind off some OD. Then it will just fall out.

Scirocco wrote:

Rick H. wrote:
Not trying to hi-jack the thread, but I have a relevant question. When the axle nuts are tightened to spec and locked down with the clamps is there supposed to be any movement in the speedometer gear housing, or is it in fact locked down tight?

It´s dependent of speedo drive housing. Some has fixed Slots to fit into lower fork leg and some not.

Thanks for the response Scirocco, I only asked because I can't recall if the speedometer gear box rotated slightly on my bike before I took it apart to replace the wheel bearings. After reinstalling everything the gearbox is absolutely tight and doesn't move at all. I just wondered if that's how it is supposed to be or not. There is nothing on the fork leg inhibiting movement that I can see.
Rick H.

Rick H. wrote: ..... There is nothing on the fork leg inhibiting movement that I can see.
Rick H.

You may want to double check just to be positive. The detent bump on the left KZ650-C1 leg is very small and easy to overlook. The pic below shows it. Ed

650ed: After doing some research I found in the Clymer Manual that there is a "stopping boss" on the speedometer gear housing that limits counter-clockwise rotation of the gear housing, but it does not lock the housing down per se that I can tell. I would assume that boss is there so you can't pinch the gear housing between the wheel and fork. However, does that mean that the housing is free to rotate somewhat when installed correctly?
Rick H.

It may be different on the KZ1000, but on the KZ650-C1 the speedometer sending unit has a bump cast into it (see photos below). When mounting the sending unit it should be turned counterclockwise until that bump hits the bump that’s cast into the fork leg. Once the axle is tightened the speedometer sending unit cannot turn any further because the bumps prohibit any further counterclockwise movement when braking and there’s nothing that tries to turn the sending unit in a clockwise direction. Ed

The KZ 900/1000's too have that locator but it does not come in contact with the fork lowers.


I have to rotate the drive down a bit so the cable will clear the caliper needing a longer cable.

It is locked into place by the axle as it's a part of the whole system of spacers.



Once tightened by the clamps it cannot turn.
Steve

Okay guys thanks to all who replied to my question(s) on this topic. In one of the manuals it states to turn the gear housing to the "2 o'clock position" and tighten the axle nut. So I guess they don't want the housing contacting the fork leg.
Rick H.

Rick H. wrote: In one of the manuals it states to turn the gear housing to the "2 o'clock position" and tighten the axle nut. .

When you rotate the speedo drive your making contact between the boss on the fork and the matching boss on the drive. It stops rotating when they touch and then tighten the axle nut.