TOPIC:

How do i adjust both of the circled points? The lower and top parts? I have looked at my manuals and i cant find anything on the bottom lower one. How do i set the timing after the points are adjusted? And lastly, should i sand the metal tension band?

Post edited by: kz650sandrail, at: 2006/09/11 21:03

When you adjust the points the idea is to set the gap between the contacts (at the top in your pic), the bottom part rides on a cam and opens and closes the points.
As far as adjusting the timing, I'll let someone else cover that as my manual is unavailable right now and it's been awhile since I did it to a 650.

so when i set the top, i just let the bottom sit on the cam? Thanks or the help in advance

Well if your bike is the same as a 1000, and it appears to be, you set the timing by loosening the 2 mounting screws near the outer edge of the plate and prying at the slot at the upper right of the plate. This moves the whole plate without changing the point gap.

Yes. Let the bottom sit on the cam and turn the engine so that the the bottom is resting on one of the peaks of the cam. Then measure the clearance between the two contacts (the upper red circle in your pic). If the gap is not correct, loosen the two screws holding the points to the adjusting plate and pry the points back and forth until the clearance is correct, then tighten the screws. Do you have a maintenance manual? This whole procedure would be a lot easier if you could see the photos in a book.

kz650sandrail wrote:

so when i set the top, i just let the bottom sit on the cam? Thanks or the help in advance

Post edited by: vegasjetskier, at: 2006/09/11 22:08

yeah, i have a maintenance manual. However, the writing in those manuals are greek to me. What you just said makes alot more sense. Thanks a bunch! I couldnt find anything about the bottom adjustment.
Thanks again,
-Josh-

You're welcome. Make sure you adjust both sets of points.

kz650sandrail wrote:

yeah, i have a maintenance manual. However, the writing in those manuals are greek to me. What you just said makes alot more sense. Thanks a bunch! I couldnt find anything about the bottom adjustment.
Thanks again,
-Josh-

What is the firing order? The green wire coming from the breakers is 2 3 black is 1 4.

Post edited by: kz650sandrail, at: 2006/09/12 13:15

The firing order is the sequence in which the cylinders are fired by the ignition system. For a 1000, it's 1, 2, 4, 3, and the cylinders are numbered from the left side of the engine while facing forward (i.e. sitting on the bike). On a 1000, the left set of points fires 1 and 4 and the right set fires 2 and 3, 180 degrees of crankshaft rotation later. The system fires the plugs for both the listed cylinders at the same time to reduce complexity. One of the pair of cylinders will be on the exhaust stroke when the plug fires, but it doesn't matter because the fuel mixture is already burnt.

could it be possible that my ignition coils are switched around?

kz650sandrail wrote:

could it be possible that my ignition coils are switched around?

It's possible. Does the engine run? If so they are wired correctly.

One way to check if the coils are wired up properly is to bring a cylinder up to top dead center (TDC) on the compression stroke. Do this by removing a sparkplug from a cylinder and rotating the engine while holding your finger over the sparkplug hole. When you feel air pressure that cylinder is coming up on the compression stroke. Set a pencil on top of the piston and slowly rotate the engine until the pencil has moved out of the sparkplug hole as far as it can and just begins to drop back down.

Now you are at top dead center. Look at the points to see which set is about to break or has just broken contact. That set of points should be wired to the coil for that cylinder. If it's the other coil, they are wired backwards.

Points and timing a KZ650. I'd rather do many other things personally.
Anyway, the way you asked the question, suggests to me that you have little or no experience dealing with point ignitions. So, if I say things that are you already know. Please forgive me. Just trying to help.
One of the first things I would do, although you do not have to, is replace the screws holding the points and the points plates. They are metric, M4 X about 6mm to 8mm long. I found new ones at my local Lowes hardware store that had allen heads instead of phillips heads. They also had ones with a straight slot on them, either will work just fine. From the picture you submitted the screws you have looked pretty yucky, which is pretty normal for these older machines. I had to buy 10mm ones and cut them down to a proper length. I used a dremel cut-off tool. It's a matter of being able to tighten them enough so they hold the points position.
Anyway, pick one side to adjust and using a 17mm wrench (igintion turned OFF) slowly turn the shaft that is sticking out from the points. It will turn the engine over. Watch the gap between the points. This is not an exact science and is not required to be. At about the point in the rotation of the shaft when the gap in these points is the biggest. Stop. It is at this point you will adjust the gap. My 78 KZ650 gap is between .300 and .400 mm. My feeler gauges are standard, but they have the metric size stamped on them also. I pick a feeler gauge that is about .356mm in size. That's about the thickness of a matchbox cover. The next part is more of a pain in the butt than it should be (compared to other point ignition systems). You need to loosen (not remove) the two screws that hold the points to the point plate and move the points around until 1. the roller on the bottom is still in contact with the shaft and 2. the gap between the points is the thickness of your feeler gauge. It's hard to describe it better than that. Look, pay attention and play with it. You will be able to figure out how to do this. Oh, you will want to, either using some sandpaper or a small file, you will want to make the two surfaces smooth and shiny Before you adjust the gap. Don't worry too much about the gap being "perfect" it is not extremely critical that the gap be an exact measurement. That's one reason why they give a range for it to be in. Also, adjusting points is an acquired skill. If you have no experience doing this, it will take time and practice until you can do it well and proficiently. Not to mention that something about the way the KZ650 points are mounted, they are trickier and more difficult to adjust than most points systems. After you have given it your best shoot and have tightened the screws down. I usually turn over the engine a few times and check the gap again. If you need some idea of how 'tight' the feeler gauge should feel between the points try this, stack about 20 sheets of paper. Pull one piece of paper out of the middle. Hold the stack on the end with one hand and slide the other piece of paper in and out with the other hand. That's about the snugness you are looking for. Once agian this isn't exacting science. After you are happy, or at least satisfied, with the one gap. Do the same thing to the other.

Oh yea, you do not need to sand the rust off the spring. Probably better not to mess with them (if it ain't broke, don't fix it).

Hope this helps more than confuses you. BTW, another way to check the gap, and a more accurate way, is to use a dwell meter. However, I'm not going to describe that here. Just know that you can 'electronically' check the point gap for correctness. It isn't any easier to physically adjust them (actually it's tricker to do). But, a dwell meter can give you a measure of the electrical correctness of the gap.

Good Luck!