TOPIC:

Here's some info on the Timing Advancer:










Post edited by: rstnick, at: 2006/09/01 22:19

Thanks guys, The above posts will keep me busy til my manual shows up. Your posts have been very timely as well, 2 thumbs up, thanks for helping.

I usually loose power at 5k rpms, but sometimes it starts at about 4500 rpms. The bike doesn't backfire, it chugs and runs rough, intermitient, it takes about 10 seconds to get to 6k rpms from 5k rpms in all gears. My first guess was fuel starvation, but reading many post here, this can also be electrical. I'll clean the advance first, and then start checking all the tune up stuff, then move to the carbs if still lacking to reach higher rpms.

Thanks for the pictures of the points system, it will help in cleaning the advance, and I'm glad to hear that it doesn't need to be centered.

I'm just stumped at posible carb troubles, the bikes starts like a new bike, and purrs like a good inline 4, but something is wrong, at least I can still outrun the chinese scooters.

Thanks guys, I'll report my findings after going thru the tuneup.

Good day

Brad

Hello,

I took apart the advancer , cleaned the area and greased it up, now it turns really well.

I ran the bike and I'm able to reach 8000+ rpms, I'm sure I could of reached 9000(Redline, but motor was still a bit rough). I opened my gas cap for a few other runs, and it did help a bit with the surging, so I think my fuel cap needs a bit of work as well.

Cleaning my advance sure helped a bunch, thanks for the good advice.

Here is a picture of my gas cap parts, can these just be cleaned up to help my tank breath, and help with the flow of fuel? Opening my tank had no effect prior to cleaning the advance.

Plans now are to check the IGN system, and get the motor timed, if still rough I think it will be time for a plug chop, I don't know if the bike is setup for my altitude(4500ft).

Thanks again for the help, you saved me a trip to a mechanic.

Good day

Brad

Gas tank cap parts

I've been watching this thread because I am having the EXACT same problem with my KZ750E2.
I took the advance off and sure enough it is seized up tight in a couple of places (the arms and the center shaft) I have it soaking in PB Blast for the night and I'll get after it first thing in the AM. Any suggestions on freeing up that center collar would be greatly appreciated. You guys ROCK!!!
Here's a picture of what I'm up against.
Thom


Post edited by: vanlagan, at: 2006/09/02 19:44

Please make sure pics are no longer than 550 wide when posting, otherwise it screws up the thread formatting.

Post edited by: steell, at: 2006/09/02 20:13

That collar slides off the center shaft, and being a four you don't have to worry about putting it back on 180 degrees out

steell wrote:

That collar slides off the center shaft, and being a four you don't have to worry about putting it back on 180 degrees out

Yes, but you have to correct the 180 out by swapping some wires, either plug wires or primary wires.

When it's loosened, you can remove the collar by turning and lifting with your fingers. We're not talking about the darker iron slug, but the silver tube that it is pressed onto. The silver tube, and dark slug all come off as a single unit. To put it back on takes some skill because you have to hold the arms open as you drop the collar back on.

Normally, the point of the collar points toward the side that has the words "tech" on it. (IF it has "tech on it, that is.) Your photo looks correct as to the normal orientation of the point.

This is regarding electronic-ignition-models, not points-models.

I had my cam on the advancer out 180 deg for over a year, and it baffled me why/how I needed my points wires (black and green) reversed to make my bike run.
Not until someone else mentioned that the High point on the cam (where the line is) lines up with the small hole on the backing plate (on 650's with points), did I figure out why my wires needed to be reversed.

Thanks for the info. guys. I was out in the garage at 7AM and had it freed up, cleaned up, relubed and back on the bike by 7:45. That bike runs like a Raped Ape!!!
This post saved me from ripping the carbs apart again and re-doing what I knew I did right the first time. I would have sworn it was starving for fuel.
This bike was given to me as barn fresh and it's been sort of fun to work on til now. Now that it's running right it's a blast.
Thanks again for all of the help.
Cyber beers to all!!

loudhvx wrote:

steell wrote:

That collar slides off the center shaft, and being a four you don't have to worry about putting it back on 180 degrees out

Yes, but you have to correct the 180 out by swapping some wires, either plug wires or primary wires.

When it's loosened, you can remove the collar by turning and lifting with your fingers. We're not talking about the darker iron slug, but the silver tube that it is pressed onto. The silver tube, and dark slug all come off as a single unit. To put it back on takes some skill because you have to hold the arms open as you drop the collar back on.

Normally, the point of the collar points toward the side that has the words "tech" on it. (IF it has "tech on it, that is.) Your photo looks correct as to the normal orientation of the point.

This is regarding electronic-ignition-models, not points-models.

Ok, I stand corrected

I'm still smarting from installing the lobe on the 750 twin 180 out when I converted it to electronic ignition a few days ago, it took me five minutes to realize I'd made a dumb mistake

I too have been following this thread and in fact have been helping my little brother with a nearly identical problem! Good to see that it seems we are on the right track! Keep us posted on your progress...