Your ground wire to your frame needs to be a steady 0.0V with the key on.
(black probe on negative battery post/red probe on ground wire at frame mounting point)
You can get away with a maximum of 0.5V.
Try to get it to 0.0V if you can by cleaning connections and making sure the connections are tight
(sometimes the wire is corroded internally and you can't see it or clean it).
Current needs to be flowing when you take these measurements hence the key switch needing to be on.
You can move that red probe along your ground wire to see where the voltage problem is.
For instance, leaving the black probe on the negative battery post(metal part of the battery)
and move your red probe to the negative battery cable lug(the metal part of the negative battery cable that is clamped to the post).
If you see 0.0v or higher here, that battery terminal has an issue(0.0v instead of 0.5v because these two measuring points are pressed against each other).
It could be loose, corroded, or anything that would limit the current flow.
The probes will be few millimeters apart on the same wire, but you can zero-in on where the problem is.
You can also check a connector.
Leave the connector corrected.
meter to DC V
Current has to be flowing through the connector.
If it's a headlight connector, then the headlight has to be on.
Back probe one side of the connector with the red probe and the other side of the connector with the black probe.
Anything higher than 0.5 is bad (I would strive for 0.0V since it's a connector and only a few mm of wire involved).
This technique can be used to check ignition switches easily
Resistance measurements can't be trusted.
You can have a wire with 1000 strands hanging on by 1 strand give you a 0.0Ω but it won't pass the needed current.
Your ghost voltage basically means your black probe (negative battery post) is not connected electrically to where you put your red probe.