TOPIC:

Set your DVM to DC and put one probe on the + out at the R/R and the other on the + battery terminal. If you get more than .2 V that's too much. Fix your wiring by going direct. A 20A fuse in line is fine. And take your R/R ground straight to the battery.

Nessism wrote: Set your DVM to DC and put one probe on the + out at the R/R and the other on the + battery terminal. If you get more than .2 V that's too much. Fix your wiring by going direct. A 20A fuse in line is fine. And take your R/R ground straight to the battery.

With these plan will I have perfect charge power on the battery and bypassed old cabling... The cabling looks messy already,
so it will nok look worse Looking forward to clean up everyting later, was thinking using a M-unit...?

Will report back after I have worked moe with the cabling and give the results

Most Kz's don't place a fuse between the reg/rec and the battery. It tends to cause a voltage drop.

You can go straight to the battery, but that tends to look messy...having multiple wires to each battery terminal. I like to have one big cable on each battery terminal. Then use the starter solenoid lug to distribute power wires and a big bolt on the engine to distribute grounds.

There is no reason why a heavy battery cable should have a significant voltage drop on it, so if you were getting a 1 volt drop, you will probably want to look into that anyway.

Regarding the fuse inline, I've been told that the SH775 and other series type R/R's may short to ground if they fail. Shunt type R/R's are more likely to fail open. A fuse inline hedges the bet regardless of the R/R type.

Yesterday I installed the new regulator, I have wired it almost direct to the battery, so no fuses.
I placed the regulator front of the battery, it was not space enough where the old one was.

From your last replay Nessism, it looks like these is a bad setup and I need to install a fuse?
If so can I use 15amp also or must I have 20 amps?

gordone wrote: Yesterday I installed the new regulator, I have wired it almost direct to the battery, so no fuses.
I placed the regulator front of the battery, it was not space enough where the old one was.

From your last replay Nessism, it looks like these is a bad setup and I need to install a fuse?
If so can I use 15amp also or must I have 20 amps?

Gordon, the 14.98 volts is too high of a voltage to sustain (13.5 is ~average on a 12 volt system) . I've seen mine run even higher charge voltages, with a low switched "sense" voltage on the brown wire going into my regulator. Keep in mind that this is the voltage that your bike will run at on the highway, at cruise speed / RPM. I found that my "sense" voltage was running low, and in turn causing the R/R to output higher than necessary charge voltages. After attempting to repair the problem by cleaning all of the switch contacts and wiring connections I could, but still having low sense voltage, I added in a relay to feed B+ voltage directly to my R/R, hence lowering my regulator output voltage.

Just my O2. Hope this helps.

My post on the caltric aftermarket stator:

www.kzrider.com/forum/4-electrical/60847...or-for-kz1000#783925

relay added to increase voltage at brown sense wire. Note 10 amp fuse from solenoid post:

Stators side by side:

My voltmeter show 0.20 much I think so the voltage charge voltage was 14.78 approx. That is to high charge voltage? These was measured on idle, but on higher RPM the voltage was the same. I charged the battery full with a charger before these test to the battery was almost full.

The regulat has not a sense cable. Its a seriel type with 3 cables from the stator and two more cabels postive and negative who is nonnected to the battery.

The manual calls for 14 - 15 volts, so 14.78 volts should be fine. Ed

gordone wrote: My voltmeter show 0.20 much I think so the voltage charge voltage was 14.78 approx. That is to high charge voltage? These was measured on idle, but on higher RPM the voltage was the same. I charged the battery full with a charger before these test to the battery was almost full.

The regulat has not a sense cable. Its a seriel type with 3 cables from the stator and two more cabels postive and negative who is nonnected to the battery.

You appear to be confusing the internal resistance of your digital meter's shorted probe .2 ohm reading, with a .2 voltage discretion. Two similar, but different animals in the cheap meter realm of physical properties. Your charge voltage is 14.98 volts, or rounding off to 15 VDC, 13.5 volts is nominal. +or- a tad bit. It also varies by RPM, and load, but on a new fully charged battery 15 volts is too much. Of course, it would take a considerable amount of overcharging for it to become an actual problem.

I am not sure what the specs are on the replacement R/R you retro-fitted into your sled, but they normally have a sense wire (switched brown) to regulate the output voltage.

Over charging a lead acid battery can cause overheating and battery gassing, along with hydrogen gas production. It can also cause electrical devices to let out their magic smoke, given too much go-juices. A little info on lead acid battery and charging properties.

batteryuniversity.com/index.php/learn/ar...he_lead_acid_battery

old_kaw wrote:

gordone wrote: My voltmeter show 0.20 much I think so the voltage charge voltage was 14.78 approx. That is to high charge voltage? These was measured on idle, but on higher RPM the voltage was the same. I charged the battery full with a charger before these test to the battery was almost full.

The regulat has not a sense cable. Its a seriel type with 3 cables from the stator and two more cabels postive and negative who is nonnected to the battery.

You appear to be confusing the internal resistance of your digital meter's shorted probe .2 ohm reading, with a .2 voltage discretion. Two similar, but different animals in the cheap meter realm of physical properties. Your charge voltage is 14.98 volts, or rounding off to 15 VDC, 13.5 volts is nominal. +or- a tad bit. It also varies by RPM, and load, but on a new fully charged battery 15 volts is too much. Of course, it would take a considerable amount of overcharging for it to become an actual problem.

I am not sure what the specs are on the replacement R/R you retro-fitted into your sled, but they normally have a sense wire (switched brown) to regulate the output voltage.

Over charging a lead acid battery can cause overheating and battery gassing, along with hydrogen gas production. It can also cause electrical devices to let out their magic smoke, given too much go-juices. A little info on lead acid battery and charging properties.

batteryuniversity.com/index.php/learn/ar...he_lead_acid_battery

Thank you for your information. I will check up with the seller og the regulator and I will take some more measurment.

But I understand 650ed correct as long as I’m under 15 it should be okay?

There are no sense cable to it.

Thank you for your information. I will check up with the seller og the regulator and I will take some more measurment.

But I understand 650ed correct as long as I’m under 15 it should be okay?

There are no sense cable to it.[/quote]

Sorry to confuse things. I am sure 14-15 volts @ ~4K RPM is just fine. This R/R may very well eliminate the brown wire, since it is not really necessary, since B+ levels can be sensed off of the white/ red charge wire (black /yellow is ground). If you are charging 15 VDC at idle, it could be a problem. My manual states (vaguely) that it should be under 15 volts at 4K RPM. Ride it, have fun, and do not sweat the petty stuff, or vicea-versa. lol

old_kaw wrote: Thank you for your information. I will check up with the seller og the regulator and I will take some more measurment.

But I understand 650ed correct as long as I’m under 15 it should be okay?

There are no sense cable to it.

Sorry to confuse things. I am sure 14-15 volts @ ~4-5K RPM is just fine. This R/R may very well eliminate the brown wire, since it is not really necessary, since B+ levels can be sensed off of the white/ red charge wire (black /yellow is ground). If you are charging 15 VDC at idle, it could be a problem. Ride it, have fun, and do not sweat the petty stuff, or vicea-versa. lol[/quote]

hehe

I will do some more measurement on different RPM and see what happens with the voltage if it goes higher or limited on the number we have seen.