TOPIC:

Thank you all.

When I measured all cabels was connected, so ai was measured in parallel.

Tomorrow will I disconnect and measure while the bike is running.

I disconnected the plug from the stator, adjusted the rpm to 4-5k RPM

I measured around 80v AC between all pairs on the three yellow cabels.

These test show that the stator or magnet is good or?

80 VAC is pretty good, but again, that's a no-load condition, which is not a definitive test. I'd focus on making sure you have a good R/R, and hook it up without any contact resistance in the connectors/wiring feeding the system. If you need a new R/R the best type to get is the SERIES type, not a common shunt type R/R. The SH775 is one of the best available but beware of counterfeits, which have flooded the market these days.

The manuals only specify at 4000 RPM. It's not surprising to get more at 5000 RPM.

loudhvx wrote: The manuals only specify at 4000 RPM. It's not surprising to get more at 5000 RPM.

But still if the numers is better on 5k the v reading should be good enougf to have higher charge voltage then I have...?

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Nessism wrote: 80 VAC is pretty good, but again, that's a no-load condition, which is not a definitive test. I'd focus on making sure you have a good R/R, and hook it up without any contact resistance in the connectors/wiring feeding the system. If you need a new R/R the best type to get is the SERIES type, not a common shunt type R/R. The SH775 is one of the best available but beware of counterfeits, which have flooded the market these days.

I will check up the cabling. Is it these one you recommend?

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gordone wrote:

Nessism wrote: 80 VAC is pretty good, but again, that's a no-load condition, which is not a definitive test. I'd focus on making sure you have a good R/R, and hook it up without any contact resistance in the connectors/wiring feeding the system. If you need a new R/R the best type to get is the SERIES type, not a common shunt type R/R. The SH775 is one of the best available but beware of counterfeits, which have flooded the market these days.

I will check up the cabling. Is it these one you recommend?

That is the counterfeit. It's not a SERIES type. If you don't understand the difference please use google and read about the difference between a shunt R/r and a Series R/R. The "real" SH775's have printing on the top of the unit and cost about $150 in the USA. Those cheap jobbies are cheap knockoffs. Get a used SH775 if you have to. They are very robust.

Now have I ordered a series type, looking forward to test it
Will take some weeks will come back with update when its installed

gordone wrote:

loudhvx wrote: The manuals only specify at 4000 RPM. It's not surprising to get more at 5000 RPM.

But still if the numers is better on 5k the v reading should be good enougf to have higher charge voltage then I have...?

Yes, if you are getting 80 VAC at 5000 RPM I would assume it probably passes 55 VAC at 4000 RPM. As Ed said, an open load test can only confirm a bad stator, but it doesn't necessarily confirm a good stator. It's like you want to test a bucket to hold water. So you put a few drops in it. If it won't hold a few drops of water, then the bucket is bad for sure. But if it does hold a few drops of water, that doesn't mean the bucket is necessarily good.

But as far as whether or not your stator output is considered above par or below par, according to Kawasaki, the only test they give is specified at 4000 RPM. It is not valid to score a 5000 RPM result against a 4000 RPM specification. Since it passes very high at 5000 RPM, I would expect it to pass the 4000 RPM test.

The next step, as you are doing, is to get a new reg/rec.

Today have I hocked up the new regulator, I was cutting of existing cables and reconnected it.
When I started up the bike I got 13.30v or something over the battery, and then I measured on the output from the regulator (in parallel, everything was connected)
and then I got approx. 14.30v...

So I understand these correct have I around 1v drop somewhere, is these common on old bike? The wiring net is also old...
I was thinking rewiring so the positive and negative goes direly to the battery, atlest the positive and negative to frame.
When will I also get 14.30v on the battery.... and case is closed ? or must I figure out why ?

Must I install a fuse on the positive cable? What size?

You don't need any additional fuses over the stock fuses.
The output of the regulator has a pretty short and direct path to the battery, possibly through the main lug connector on the starter solenoid. You should not measure a significant voltage drop on that path.

When you measure, what are you connecting the black meter lead to? It should be on the battery's negative terminal for all measurements (regarding the charging system). You should measure the voltage at the output of the reg/rec and also measure the voltage on the ground lead of the reg/rec. It's possible you have a weak ground.

loudhvx wrote: You don't need any additional fuses over the stock fuses.
The output of the regulator has a pretty short and direct path to the battery, possibly through the main lug connector on the starter solenoid. You should not measure a significant voltage drop on that path.

When you measure, what are you connecting the black meter lead to? It should be on the battery's negative terminal for all measurements (regarding the charging system). You should measure the voltage at the output of the reg/rec and also measure the voltage on the ground lead of the reg/rec. It's possible you have a weak ground.

I measured direcly on the battery positive and negative. And I measured positive and negative out from the regulator.

I can search for the bad connection, but want I was wondering about is it any problem connect the reg. Direct to the battery and what fuse should I use on the positive cable?

I just want to have a plan B don’t nessarry quick to find the bad cable, and I want to rebuild the whole eletrical system another time.