TOPIC:

zell wrote:
By the manual, it should be between 0.8 ~ 0.18. But is tighter than that. In the video you can see more details.

It should be 0.08 mm to 0.18 mm. In the video I think you used the wrong feeler gauge set. they're too thick.
For example one is marked .008/.203. top number is inches & bottom number is the metric equivalent. 0.008" = 0.203 mm.

0.003 " = 0.08 mm. 0.004" = 0.10 mm. 0.006" = 0.15 mm. 0.007" = 0.18 mm. inches rounded. mm exact.

Scirocco - Thanks for the images and the files, you're awesome! And you are completely right! I took off the screws to check the PO and it is visible broken (or was cut, who knows). I just didn't understand how to dismount the crankshaft nut, because In the pictures it shows the guys using 2 wrench but in my case, there is no place to use a second wrench (see imgs below)

650ed - Oh thanks dude! Yeah I was looking some videos on youtube and I found out mine was totally different. I as I said to Scirocco, it probably broke. Looks like I need to buy an original one to replace it and get the right measurements.

JMKZHI - Thank you for pointing out it!!! this one is the smallest I had but looks like I will need to buy another set of feelers gauge. You have no idea how annoyed I was for the fact I would need to go the deep to change the shims and etc haha.. I mean, I might need to do that when I get the real measures but crossing my fingers to not.

More pictures with details.



So..what I gonna do now is:

1st priority
• Get a new set of feeler gauges and check the valves
• Calibrate the Ingnition System

2nd priority
• Try to find a second hand and good condition the Ingnition Advancer disc
• If the valves are off, get some shims and figure out that part. (this gonna be hard for me but I am up to learn and fix it)

btw You are guys are freaking awesome! thanks again!

Be sure to use a 17mm wrench on the crankshaft nut to turn the crankshaft. don't use a 14mm wrench on the timing advancer bolt.

The ignition coils should be replaced. cracks let in moisture, causing oxidation & shorts.

Hi Guys, I am back.

Didn't have much time last few days to work on the bike to check all the details

So here is an update.

• Valves Clearance - It's good! This time I took the correct feeler gauges and they are, in general, between 0.08 to 0.15. So we can discard this hypothesis of engine is not starting again because it is hot.

• Spark Plugs Cable - I notice that the cables were in different spark. Before I do the check it was Left Coil - #1 - #3 plugs and Right Coil #2 - #4. Now it is 1 - 4 and 2 - 3. It is running better now (or course) and the bike looks less "moody". BTW.. What kind of problem would it bring? if I left like that..

• Points - I followed the instructions and I hope it is ok. What I did is align the magnetic to the pole pins exactly when it is on T 1•4 position. I am attaching a image here to you guys see if it is correct.



• Not Charging When It Is Running - I made a video (a bit obvious) but just wanted to you guys understand what is going on.



What is the simple way to check if is the alternator the problem or the cables or even any other thing... ? I just want check before I buy anything.

Thank you guys again for the support and help

zell wrote: ............................ Before I do the check it was Left Coil - #1 - #3 plugs and Right Coil #2 - #4......

Wow! I'm surprised the bike didn't blow up. One coil should be attached to cylinders 1 & 4, the other coil should be attached to cylinders 2 & 3. It sounds like you corrected a serious mistake. Ed

Indeed!.. I am not sure when this mistake happened because I didnt touch those cables in a long time.

Now it is 100% correct.

Are there three yellow wires coming out of your stator?
Steve

SWest - Three? ..There is only two.

Look how it is:

Single phase alternator. With it together disconnect the two wires and test how much A/C voltage you have.
Steve

I think my stator has a problem with the grounded wire. I did a test as you guys can see at video below.



I think it is a broken black cable (ground).

You guys can diagnose it better than me haha

Set it to the lowest A/C volt setting and see what it reads while running.
Steve

zell wrote: I think my stator has a problem with the grounded wire. ......................I think it is a broken black cable (ground).

I don't think so. You need to look at the wiring diagram. I believe you will see that the stator does not have a ground wire, therefore that cannot be the problem. The link below will bring up the wiring diagram for the 1980 KZ650-F1. Notice there are only 2 wires connected to the generator (stator), and they are both yellow. Take a close look at the third wire in the photo you provided. I suspect it is black and yellow which makes it a ground wire, but it would not be connected to the stator. Ed

diagrams.kz650.info/wiring/images/KZ650-F1.jpg