Hi as a recently new owner of a KZ 1000A im pretty new to this forum.
My question is can i convert my points style ignition system to a CDI system?
If so what is involved , how much does it cost, and where can i buy parts (like are they available on E Bay).
Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Please forgive if this topic has been covered before
There's no CDI setup for these bikes (its called something else, whatever)
Your options are Dyna S; you need the Dyna backing plate, advancer and coils, expect to pay $150-$300 or so.
The 1980 kz1000 factory ignition, same thing, backing plate, advancer, coils and ignitor- expect similar price, unless you find a deal. This one needs minor rewiring, not hard to do, but finding a good ignitor is a pain sometimes.
my bikes; 80kz1000(project), 77 gl1000, 74 h2 (project)
Past; 78 kz1000, 83 kz550
1980 LTD 1000..,1976 LTD 900, have the 1000&900 now. the rest are previous= 1978 KZ 650 B.., 1980 Yamaha XT 500..,1978 Yamaha DT 400.., 1977 Yamaha yz 80..,Honda trail ct 70.., Honda QA 50...5-1/2 hp brigs & straton CAT chopper mini bike...3-1/2 hp mini bike (WHEN GAS WAS ABOUT 45 CENTS A...
I have a Dyna S and coils on my KZ1000 courtesy of some previous owner and it seems to work very well. My KZ650 still runs points, although I have a relay conversion to ensure full volts at the coils, it starts and runs really well as does my 73 Triumph Tiger with points. I grew up with points so I've spent a lot of time adjusting and "fettling" them. I personally thinks points are highly underrated and electronic ignition conversions somewhat overrated. Yes generally I prefer electronic ignition, just because it's one less thing requiring adjustment and attention. particularly when you have several bikes to keep on the road, but it seems to have become conventional wisdom that you must ditch your points system immediately, and at all costs. This simply isn't true we all drove thousands of trouble free miles before electronic ignition became available. One of the benefits of being a teenager living at home was that I had time to set the gap and timing almost weekly to squeeze maximum performance from my bikes In reality many classic bikes don't get ridden enough for point cleaning and adjustment to be necessary more than every few years, so it's not a big deal.
The downside to electronic ignitions can be the bike won't start if the battery is dead on some models, so you can't bump start them, and if they do fail they are likely beyond a road side fix - however now they are extremely reliable. If you need new points, condensers and everything then it probably makes sense to put that money towards an electronic ignition, but you should never feel it's compulsory.
One reason I still have my points on my KZ650 is I bought a whole GPz750R1 parts bike, primarily because it was very cheap and I made money selling the parts on eBay, but also because I wanted the oil cooler and oil pan and the electronic ignition to convert my ignition system - but I put the ignition parts in a safe place in my shed and have not been able to find them for 4 or 5 years, I'm sure they''l turn up one day, in the mean time I'm not buying a Dyna S for it when I have a perfectly good OEM system hiding in my shed although I bet if I did buy one, I'd find the parts the next day
I've looked at them for my Triumph, but that starts and idles so well I've yet to feel it necessary. One thing I like about the systems available for the Triumph is they do away with the mechanical ignition advance, using their own programmed advance curve, which is a big improvement over the mechanical systems which tend to go to full advance too early. I'll probably buy one eventually for that reason alone.
I looked at that system for my Triumph, I didn't realize they did a system for 4 cylinders. I think getting a system using an advance curve rather than the mechanical advancer is a good idea. They can either stick or advance prematurely when springs get tired. Also the advance is pretty much all or nothing, with full advance at a few thousand rpm where as in reality it usually needs to be more progressive and take longer to hit full advance.
The downside to electronic ignitions can be the bike won't start if the battery is dead on some models, so you can't bump start them, and if they do fail they are likely beyond a road side fix
Apparently that is the usual cause of electronic ignition failure, trying to bump start on a flat battery. This is a common problem on chinky scooters too. Saying that, i did it many a time on mine, to no ill effects, although I noticed they are sensitive to a decent battery charge.
1980 Gpz550 D1, 1981 GPz550 D1. 1982 GPz750R1. 1983 z1000R R2. all four aces
The dead battery issue is a big thing on the older Triumphs where the charging systems are poor to say the least. They are the only vehicles I've owned where it's possible to start out with a charged battery and come back with less charge after a ride. If you are in town etc. with lights on, using turn signals and brake lights on a lot waiting at stop lights and intersections and don't get a good run with some consistent higher rpm the overall outcome is likely to be negative in terms of what went in compared to what came out, As some of the ignition conversions will not fire below a certain voltage you could hit issues, where with old fashioned points it would fire right up.
As for "chinky scooters" that involves two of my least favorite sayings "made in China" and "scooter"
I have a 2005 kz 1000 police bike and it has electronic ignition. I don't know what year they started putting it on from the factory. There's probably a lot of bolt on used stuff if that is more affordable. It must be dependable if Kawasaki and law enforcement used it! : )
Tyrell Corp wrote: but uses the points as a low current switch for triggering it.
This is what I was referring to int the z400 ignition threadtoday. I think the term is TAC (transistor assisted contact breaker)
To my (simple minded) knowledge none of the kwak fours used CDI, it was a fully transistorised ignition but one up from TAC as in no contact breakers but a magnetic sensor to trigger it.
CDI = capcitor discharge ignition. For years I called the factory ignition a CDI too but LouHVX corrected me on it.
Mine actually is an aftermarket CDI which uses the points as a trigger. It's true that most electronic ignitions today are just transistor switch ignitions, which actually work pretty well. CD has some advantages.
Gerex made a true CDI back in the day. 1980,, Used a magnetic trigger which replaced the points plate with a spinning magnet passing 2 pickup sensors. Time it and forget about it. But it was dated technology.. Mine lasted till 3 years ago when a cracked coil cap made me take it off my bike and I installed a Dyna S. Stick with points or make the change to a Dyna S or 2000 unit.
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Mr Turbo Race Kit, MTC 1075 Turbo pistons by PitStopPerformance , Falicon Ultra Lite Super Crank, APE everything. Les Holt @ PDM's Billet Goodies . Frame by Chuck Kurzawa @ Logghe Chassis . Deep sump 5qt oil pan. RIP Bill Hahn