TOPIC:

Yes. 6.6v from battery + to brown at the Reg/rec is a major voltage drop. That needs to be fixed, and is usually due to bad connections at the fuse box (which will also cause the appearance of melting wires at the fuse box). However, as you said, it should result in the voltage being too high at the battery, not too low. Since it's not, this usually means a bad ground, but you checked that. So that is confusing. Have you checked the output of the alternator at the three yellow wires just before they connect at the reg/rec?

Your step 3 test does not indicate a bad fuse box. There are no fuses between the reg/rec output wire and the battery. The connection path should be reg/rec output wire to the battery, or reg/rec output wire to the starter solenoid where it connects to the battery positive cable.

The WC mod would only cause a problem if it is wired improperly, but we can't guess what the mis-wiring would be without knowing exactly how it is wired.

Major drop. This is why I,and others, say the Coil mod is a band aid covering up the real problem. Much better to fix the actual problem.
Any sign of heat at the wires is resistance. Current will not flow freely. A new fuse box may be necessary, but the wiring would also need attention. I believe that would be your Main Fuse, which feeds the ignition switch, then power returns to the Fuse box. Since your charge volts is still lower than it should be, is it from old stiff heated high resistance wires? It sounds like this could be your issue. Those wires from the stator, what condition are they in? They can get in a state as I just described, and voltage loss will be the result.
Go through and check All wiring and connectors, pay close attention to the wire condition at least three inches back from each.
Get it right and Ditch the coil Mod,

Mfolks has a great list of electrical suppliers, here is just 1 source: www.oregonmotorcycleparts.com/connectors.html
Z1 also has connectors.

I edited the post it was 0.66V from the + and brown RR. It should be 0.2V according to the flow chart.

I`m going to fix this first and then test. New fuse box and wires.

Bought some new blade style inline fuses sadly napa didn't have a 3 fuse box grr. I'm going to solder these in in place of the fuse box with new wire and see if that helps.

Check out this site for some fuse boxes: www.delcity.net/store/8!way-fuse-block/p_10823.a_1
Hows the wires from the stator harness connecting to the R/R? Any sign of heat? Stiff wire near the connectors?
Does your R/R output wire go to the Batt+ terminal or to the solenoid terminal? Check any and all where this circuit travels.

The stator is new other then the block connector and sensors (oil ,neutral). The r/r is new. Both plug into a junction that appears fine.

If I was to test the continuity of each of my wires what should it be? I'm thinking of pulling all the charging wires apart again and check each wire at every junction to find shorts.

Personally, instead of an OHM check for resistance, I would look for voltage drop while loaded and running at each side of every connector.
Voltage drop under load is a much better test than an OHM meter putting some small current through a circuit.

Fuse And Fuse Holder Designations

1. The older Kawasaki’s use a glass tubed fuse with the designation of AGX 1” long. Most good auto parts stores can get them for you. They are ¼” in diameter.

2. The more common AGC is 1 ¼” long and may not fit the smaller fuse clips. Again, ¼” in diameter.

3. To clean and polish the fuse clips, I use a cotton swab(Q- Tip) and some Brasso metal cleaner or Turtle Wax Chrome Polish. I suppose any good metal polish would work.

4. These fuses can fail internally but look good, only by removing them from the clip and electrically continuity checking with either a self powered test light, or a multimeter set on OHMS can they be determined to be in good shape.

5. A physical inspection of the metal end caps for tightness will tell you if the fuse is serviceable.

6. Most modern motorcycles are now using the automobile “Blade” style fuse with the designation of ATC or ATO.

7. The reduced sized “Mini” Blade style fuse holder uses the ATM size of fuses.

8. If the fuse and fuse holder overheat, it could soften or anneal the grip of the clip, it might require squeezing the clip to restore the tightness.
9. A list of where to purchase “Blade” style fuses and holders:

www.waytekwire.com order.waytekwire.com/productdetail2/M50/...20%20%20%208%20FUSE/

www.rallylights.com www.rallylights.com/detail.aspx?ID=765

www.delcity.net/store/6!way-fuse-blocks/p_10822.a_1

10. A source for the glass tubed AGX fuses:
www.boatownerswarehouse.com/browse.cfm/2,4986.html

Electrical Connectors, Wire, And supplies
www.easternbeaver.com
www.vintageconnections.com
www.z1enterprises.com/catalog.aspx?pid=KPEL1
www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu
www.electricalconnection.com
www.electricalconnection.com/electrical-components/hitachi.htm
www.pbase.com/mainecruising/wire_termination&page=1
www.crowbarelectricalparts.com/butt_connectors.htm
www.ratwell.com/technical/Terminals.html
www.economycycle.com/servlet/the-Bullet-...lectrical/Categories
www.surplussales.com/SolderlessTerminals/WireTerminals-3.html
www.findtape.com/shop/product.aspx?id=32...&width=1436&height=0

_________________________________________________________________________________________________
Why WD-40 Should Not Be Used On Motorcycle Electrical Items.

For many years, I was proponent of the use of WD-40 on fuse clips, fuses, switches and connectors. After hearing of other peoples experience with intermittent and sporadic activity, I shrugged it off as maybe they did something wrong in the application of the product.

It wasn’t until the time I rode my 1982 GPz1100 B2 model to downtown San Diego that I encountered the problems others had gone through.

After concluding my business downtown, I walked to where my bike was parked, turned the key to unlock the forks, and prepared to start the engine. The key was in the "On" position, yet I had no lights in the dash panel, the fuel pump was not running(I have FI), and the horn and tail light were not working.


Stumped as to why nothing electrical was happening, I remember my earlier conversations about how WD-40 will over time become a non-conductor(more like an insulator). I had some pieces of 400 and 600 grit sandpaper in my tool kit and with them was able to scratch away the coating from the WD-40 on the fuses and clips.

After removing the insulating film, the bike started and ran like it should. Since that time, I’ve told people about the problem with WD-40. If you must use a contact cleaner, I recommend getting some "De-oxit" from Radio Shack Stores or any good electronic supply store.

I FIXED IT!!!

I did end up having a bad ignition wire sec (white) replaced and it works!! 14V all the way baby! Now should I dare ask if I needed to spend money on a stator hah! the wire were pretty bad. Glad I didn't order a new rotor!! Should have done what the book said TEST ALL THE WIRED HAHA. Now I know. I definitely needed the R/R.

Thanks for all the input. Now on to the clutch hah!

That's cool. Where was the length of wire between? The R/R and Batt+?