TOPIC:

Kaw900 wrote: ...positive battery cable with exposing copper. It could have oxidation not allowing a strong current back to the battery. Gonna purchase a new one and replace it....

Can't hurt to replace the cable, but unless the exposed copper is allowing a short to ground, I don't suspect it would be a problem, or related to the insufficient charging condition.

Typically, insufficient charging is due to an issue with the alternator and/or the regulator, or the wiring associated with them.

Over-charging is often due to an issue with the regulator.

Here's an excerpt from the Z1/KZ900 FSM:



Good Fortune!

Because of the new combo rec/reg and new stator, am more suspicious of the wiring and connections between these components, and would assure integrity of ground wire from the combo unit.

As MFolks suggested earlier, one of the connectors in the wiring may be crusty, for example where the combo ground wire connects into a chassis ground wire. Which might be causing a problem, because the combo unit does require a good ground in order to properly function.

I've successfully run a combo unit (the plug-in version) from Z1E for many years.

Good Fortune!

Hey Guy's,
Yesterday I went through all the tests again on the Stator and it all checked out. Then i went through the wiring harness disconneting non-vitals looking for a spike in voltage with no luck. Finally i decided to peel back the installation on the possitive battery terminal which should have been the first thing i did and to my surprise the copper was un-wound and alot of splits in the wire. This could very well be why when i raised the RPM's i would get a spike in voltage because it was trying to push as much current through such little contact. I already ordered a new cable and should have it installed by friday. I will let you know the result by then. See the picture.

I had the same problem and replaced everything like you have. Turns out I had a bad coil. Put a set of Dyna's on and fixed it.

Your picture shows what can and does happen on cars too. The battery acid attacks anything around the vent areas when the battery goes through a discharge-charge cycle.

I'd check where the clear battery vent hose is routed, if no hose, most hardware stores have a selection of clear hoses that will work. Maybe 3/16" or 1/4" I.D. is what you'll need.

Ok Guy's,
I replaced the possitive battery terminal today and still no luck. Still idling at 12.1 volts. I again took the regulator rectifier combo unit out of the good bike and installed it in this bike with again no luck. So i've out ruled the battery, stator, regulator rectifier, went through the wiring harness. Would the coils be an issue with the charging system?

Kaw900 wrote: ...Still idling at 12.1 volts. I again took the regulator rectifier combo unit out of the good bike and installed it in this bike with again no luck. So I've out ruled the battery, stator, regulator rectifier, went through the wiring harness. Would the coils be an issue with the charging system?

If not already done, would remove battery, assure fluid levels are correct, charge it overnight, then have it load-tested, even if it's a brand new battery.

Imo, it's unlikely that the coils are an issue with the charging system.

The FSM covers individual tests for the alternator (dynamo) output, and rectifier and regulator functions.

As known, charging starts with the alternator (aka dynamo), which needs good wiring in the stator (no short or break), and a rotor with sufficient magnetism.

Even with a perfect stator, a low alternator output may result from a loss in rotor magnetism, which may be caused by dropping the rotor or hitting the rotor, or just old age of the rotor.

I don't know how to specifically test or measure for sufficient magnetism in the rotor.

Good Fortune!

Is there a good ground connection where the negative battery cable attaches to rear of engine?

The rectifier also needs a good ground connection.

Good Fortune!

I swithced the battery with a good battery from my other bike, still the same problem. Now i am steering towards the ignition switch. Gotta be something grounding out. Stator and rectifer all checked out as well as the regulator.

It might be, the switch gets a lot of vibration and wear over the years.

Is there a way to see how many amps are being drawn from my battery when i turn the ignition switch on? If so i can cross reference those numbers with my good bike and probally narrow it down.

Most test meters will be able to test for 10AMPs. Digital or Analog, this is the normal limit built in most of them. So you may have to do 1 circuit at a time and not the total draw at once. If you have a Harbor Freight/ China Tools close by, they would have meters, or they have a in dash mount AMP meter that you can test the full amount of draw and charge Amperage, good for 50 AMPs. I set one up for checking my stuff with some 10 Gauge wire and heavy duty clips.
If interested here's the thread, kzrider.com/forum/4-electrical/388730-ju...cking-system-current
It also leads to two threads, one for single phase, the other three phase charging system tests.