TOPIC:

Patton, Kzjoe900, mtakawboy

Thanks gentlemen for the information. I had to work this weekend so I have not had a chance to thank you!
I started on the bowls today. Wired george said to use a torch on them to see if any goo would come out. None has. I however have soaked the bowls in carb cleaner and the level in the enrichment part of the bowl will rise and fall as I cock the bowl back and forth.

I took stock of the parts that are in the carbs and have found they are all the proper part numbers and sizes. I did find that my carb kit from K&L, that they said was for the R1 was close but not perfect. I put a caliper on the needle and found it to be .007 inch bigger than the needle that was originally in the carb. The markings are for the Kehin carbs on the zx750. The remaining parts in the kit, the main jet, pilot jet, float needle and seat and plugs all match.

I have assembled three tools to aid in verifying all circuits are clear. I purchased various sizes of fuel line and plastic barbs that help considerably when spraying cleaner through the circuits. I have finished carb #1 and as I suspected they are all clear. I'll continue through the week and hopefully give er a go this weekend. I have and Idea of attaching a 2 inch clear plastic hose with a air vacuum to the carb to see if I cant suck fuel through the enrichment circuit without hooking up the carbs again to the bike. If this works, and then the bike fails, then I know either the airbox, boots or the engine are the culprit.

Any thoughts?

Hailcon

Gentleman,
I have sprayed from the starter jet post up to the chamber. All Clear. The passage from the emulsion tube to the pilot tube, all clear. The bowl "check valves', all clear. I don't like the name check valve, its more of a restricter. I'm guessing the purpose is to restrict flow back to the bowl so that the starter jet tube always remains full.
I did find something interesting. it took me a bit to get a wire into all the holes in the engine side of the bore. I wonder if the berrymans dried in the small holes and plugged them. I'll be following the rest of you diagram after the Packers game to ensure I have flow out all the holes.

Hailcon

Do a compression test on each cylinder, before you do anything else. Make sure the throttle is held wide-open when you do. I have the feeling you're valve timing may be 180 degrees off. A compression test will tell you definitively if this is the case.

Breaker19,
I have checked multiple times the timing with #1 and #4 cylinder on the "T" mark with both valves closed. Green lead for ignition on the #2 and #3 cylinders. Black lead on the #1 and #4 Cylinders. 180 Deg off would mean the ignition was occurring when the #4 cylinder was on the exhaust stroke? would it run at all, I.E "bike runs with starter fluid".

Valve timing off would mean I installed the cams wrong. To install the cams wrong and still have the T mark align with #4 TDC....is that possible? I believe the plugs would be wet with fuel if the timing was off. Maybe a back fire or two.
at least a sputter. I did a bleed down compression test. I put each cylinder on TDC and used a bleed down cylinder tester to check the new rings that were installed. All cylinders passed.

Please let me know if I'm wrong in my thinking.

HAILCON71 wrote: Breaker19,
I have checked multiple times the timing with #1 and #4 cylinder on the "T" mark with both valves closed. Green lead for ignition on the #2 and #3 cylinders. Black lead on the #1 and #4 Cylinders. 180 Deg off would mean the ignition was occurring when the #4 cylinder was on the exhaust stroke? would it run at all, I.E "bike runs with starter fluid".

Valve timing off would mean I installed the cams wrong. To install the cams wrong and still have the T mark align with #4 TDC....is that possible? I believe the plugs would be wet with fuel if the timing was off. Maybe a back fire or two.
at least a sputter. I did a bleed down compression test. I put each cylinder on TDC and used a bleed down cylinder tester to check the new rings that were installed. All cylinders passed.

Please let me know if I'm wrong in my thinking.

No, it sounds right, but it's something difficult to explain in this written format, I'd like to ask you a couple questions, I'm no expert but I just did the timing on my 1100 and had to reset the cams to make it run. If you care to, PM me your phone and a time to call, I'll ring you up. Home sick today anyway with another cold, so no worries on this end. - Tom

HAILCON71 wrote: Breaker19,
I have checked multiple times the timing with #1 and #4 cylinder on the "T" mark with both valves closed. Green lead for ignition on the #2 and #3 cylinders. Black lead on the #1 and #4 Cylinders. 180 Deg off would mean the ignition was occurring when the #4 cylinder was on the exhaust stroke? would it run at all, I.E "bike runs with starter fluid"....

Just to confirm, if Dyna-S is fitted, the "F" mark -- not the "T" mark -- is used when adjusting ignition timing.

Good Fortune!

No Dyna !

If it's running strong on starter fluid (effectively replacing the carburetor functions for a second or two) I would still vote for it being a fuel problem and not timing IMHO. Albeit, the timing could be off, but why would it work with starting fluid?

More confirming

Even with the permanently set (non-adjustable) factory ignition, the black wire usually connects to whichever ignition coil is firing the outside spark plugs #1/4, and the green wire connects to whichever ignition coil is firing the inside spark plugs #2/3.

Am thinking that this applies to most if not all KZ models, with or without the factory ignition, and regardless of whether the ignition timing is or isn't adjustable by the owner.



Where running strong on starting fluid, and bike ran before the carbs were rebuilt, would indicate that the wiring to coil primary terminals is correct.

Good Fortune!

Breaker19 had me thinking. What he did was make me confirm to myself that I did install the cams correct. When I have some time I'll Pm you Joe. I want to get the carbs back together before i get sidetracked. Between work and kids it's tough getting quality time. I want to be able to pay attention when I talk with Ya!

I love the drawing.

Pilot circuit is clear. I sprayed fluid into the pilot tunnel, blocked the main and Needle tunnel and blew air into the pilot air hole. A nice stream came out the one small hole under the air metering screw. I'm going to work on the Pilot bypass circuit next. If that is possible.