Help with carbs on an 81 kz100 ltd please!

Okay so i have an 81 kz1000 and i just rebuilt the bs34's that were on it. well today i installed them on the bike reconnected the vacuum tubes, fule line and throttle cables. I've made sure that there was fuel in the float bowls and tried to get the bike to start. Got nothing well except that the starter worked. I figured even if the idle screws were even a bit rich it would still start but what am i missing here. Sorry this is my first expience dealing with carbs so i'm learning. From my understanding of the crabs it has to do with something like the pilot circuit.

I guess first question is: Did bike run at all before u rebuilt the carbs?If so,why was it necessary to rebuild them?If not,how did u know they needed rebuilding?Just trying to get some idea of what the problem is.bj

It was running before i rebuilt the carbs, but would only run with the choke pulled out. So i was assuming that some of the fuel passages were clogged up. When i say rebuit i meant more like cleaned thoroughly. When i pulled them apart the pilot and main jet were completely clogged.

Okay so I'm a idiot. when i took the carbs off yesterday to get the fuel line on i forgot to tighten the intake boot. But now that i did that it'll start. The problem now is that the idel is in the 6000 rpm range. I let it run like that for a few seconds to see if the boots were leaking but didn't feel anything. I'm kinda stumped agian. Working on carbs makes me feel dumb.

When first started,did u pull the choke out to get it started? If so these old bikes(including mine) will rev up to 4-6k rpm when cold and the choke is pulled out.Let it run for a few seconds with choke all the way out and then push the choke in to the 1/2way detent.Bike should idle down to 2-4k rpm.let idle for a few more seconds until it begins to warm up and then push choke all the way in.if idle is still to hi after it warms up,there is an idle adjust wheel between carbs 2 and 3.turn the wheel counterclockwise to slow the idle down some.bj

PS:Working on multiple carb bikes has a habit of making really smart people feel dumb.Dont worry about it.There are lots of people on here who are carb pros and can help u fix most anything related to carbs.I dont happen to be one of them,but Ill help as much as I can.bj

haplo_84 wrote:

Okay so I'm a idiot. when i took the carbs off yesterday to get the fuel line on i forgot to tighten the intake boot. But now that i did that it'll start. The problem now is that the idel is in the 6000 rpm range. I let it run like that for a few seconds to see if the boots were leaking but didn't feel anything. I'm kinda stumped agian. Working on carbs makes me feel dumb.

idle screw ????

Hi Stonemaster
Sentcha a PM on another matter.
Thanks
ED

Alrighty, i have the idel on the carbs set up now. it idels around a thousand now anything below that the bike seems to stumble a bit. I think the spark plugs could use replacing and that'll help. But low and behold i feel a bit over whelmed now. Now that the bike is running it has to stay powered by the battery so i guess a stator is the next thing to go for.

Would assure correct fluid levels in battery, and charge it overnight. Have it load tested at local auto supply store such as AutoZone.

With known good fully charged battery correctly installed, snug clean terminal fittings and good ground connection where negative battery cable attaches to rear of engine --- may then perform a meaningful charging system test.

Measure DC voltage across battery terminals at 1200 (idle) rpm, looking for 13+ volts.

Measure again at 4000 rpm, looking for 14~15 volts.

These voltage readings indicate a functional charging system.

Too low indicates an issue with the alternator or rectifier.

Too high indicates an issue with the voltage regulator.

Good Fortune!

hey, thanks for the help on that one patton, tat could save me quite a bit. I'm on a steep learning curve right now. I'm more used to car mechanics. But i think I'm doing a fair bit of quick learning thanks to guys like you.

Alternator Testing For the Older 4’s(Z1’s,Kz 900’s, Kz1000’s,Kz1100’s and GPz1100’s).

To check to see if the alternator is working you need to follow these simple steps:

1. Fully charge the battery as this will be the power source during this test.

2. Disconnect the Regulator/Rectifier at the plug that has the six wires in it.

3. Start the engine and let it warm to operating temperature.

4. If you're worried about overheating, position a large fan for cooling the engine.

5. After the engine has reached operating temperature, have a helper assist you, and using a multi-meter, read the output at the three yellow wires (or the alternator output wires)at the disconnected connector.

6. Raise the engine speed to 4000 rpm, and see what the three YELLOW wire combinations(or any alternator output wires) are(1-3, 2-3 & 1-2). The output will be around 50 Volts A.C.(Alternating Current). BE CAREFUL, AS THERE IS A SHOCK HAZARD HERE!!

7. If any of the combinations are low or non-existent, the stator(wire windings) are bad and must be replaced.
Some of the older Z1’s and KZ900’s were phase sensitive, so check the wire colors carefully.

8. Using an OHMETER, Check the three wire combinations again, looking for a reading of 0.36 - 0.54 OHMS. If the readings are above or below, the stator may be bad and need replacement. Also check from any of the three YELLOW wires to ground, this will show if arcing took place.

9. Before ordering a new stator, check the connections from the stator as there are electrical "Bullet" connectors that may be damaged or dirty.
Inspect the wiring for signs of shorting or overheating too. www.z1enterprises.com sells replacement rubber grommets for the alternator output wiring, they get hard and could leak oil after a while.

10. Check the wiring coming out of the grommet as there have been situations where the wires were damaged causing a short(I.E. twisted together with insulation damage).

11. The sprocket cover will have to be removed to access the electrical connectors coming from the alternator, the left foot peg assembly and shifting lever will have to come off also.






Alternator Stator Replacement On the Older 4’s
Source for replacement Stators

A. www.electrosport.com (They have a trouble shooting page)
B. www.customrewind.com
C. www.rmstator.com
D. www.ricksmotorsportselectrics.com
E. www.regulatorrectifier.com

1. If by testing either by checking the output voltage from the stator or by using and ohmmeter for resistance and the stator is determined to be bad, replacing the stator is not a difficult job.

2. The motorcycle owner should have on hand a replacement alternator gasket as it will tear on removal and leak if reused.

3. Put the bike on the center stand if possible and lean it to the right to minimize the oil volume that could come out when the alternator cover is removed.

4. Have selection of Metric wrenches and sockets along with Metric Allen keys to be able to accomplish this repair. ¼" and 3/8" ratchets and extensions may be needed along with Allen bits.

5. Remove the gear shift lever, the sprocket cover and possibly the left foot peg assembly.


6. A catch pan for what little oil will be lost should be positioned under the alternator on the left side. Newspapers will soak up any oil lost or some kitty litter will do as an absorbent.

7. Remove the alternator cover fasteners, some bikes use a socket head cap screw(Allen type) and others use the Phillips head type, the #3 screwdriver bit fits best for those. Use a small dish or can to collect the removed fasteners from the parts to prevent loss/damage.

8. The alternator stator is secured to the inside of the cover usually with three Allen headed bolts, Some bikes may have Torx style fasteners, Remove them and disconnect the three yellow wires that have bullet connectors on them from the bundled wires inside the sprocket cover.

9. If your bike has some color other than yellow for the alternator output wires, make note of what goes where as the older Kawasaki’s were phase sensitive in regard to the regulator/rectifiers.

10. When installing the replacement stator, clock or position the output wires and grommet so they fit into the small port under the alternator cover without being pinched or damaged.

11. Tighten the three Allen or Torx fasteners, securing the replacement stator to the cover. I like using the BLUE Loctite # 242 for hardware that can be removed with hand tools.

12. Remove the old gasket from the mating surfaces of the alternator cover and engine case by scraping with a piece of sharpened plastic like Lexan or Plexi-glass as these will not gouge the soft Aluminum Cases. Avoid using a metal gasket scraper for this.

13. Position the alternator cover, checking for pinched wiring and install the fasteners with a little silver anti-seize on the threads, tightening to the correct torque.

14. Connect up the output wires to the mating female bullet connectors and while you’re in there, check the routing of the wire bundle that runs through there.

15. Inspect for signs of heat damage to the wire insulation and vibration damage too.

16. The side stand switch, neutral switch, and oil pressure switch wiring are all bundled with the alternator output wiring running above and behind the engine output sprocket. This bundle runs in a channel as it goes up toward the various electrical connections.

17. The regulator/rectifier plug on the 80’s bikes usually has six wires in it:

A. One (1)WHITE with RED stripe, this is the bikes main power wire usually 12 gauge in size.

B. One(1) smaller Brown wire, probably 18 gauge or so, the voltage sense wire for the regulator/rectifier, helps keeping it from overcharging the battery.

C. One(1) BLACK with YELLOW stripe wire, part of the ground circuits, maybe 16 gauge in size.

D. Three(3) YELLOW wires, maybe 14 gauge in size, the alternator output wires going to the regulator/rectifier which converts the Alternating Current(A.C.) to Direct Current(D.C.) using rectification, producing the power to run the motorcycle and charge the battery.

18. Reinstall the sprocket cover, again checking for pinched wires before tightening. Install the shifter on it’s splined shaft checking for proper location, and the left side foot peg assembly.

19. Except for the minor oil spill and reluctant fasteners, it’s not a very difficult job to do.


And here's a factory shop manual:
www.kawiworld.com/index.php?option=com_c...icle&id=77&Itemid=99